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Sorry, I thought you meant the mains power socket at that time rather than the power connector on the PCB. My misunderstanding.
I have a Fluke 83 Multimeter. I shall revisit the instruction manual and let you know how I get on.
Thanks again.I have only got a Fluke 83 Multimeter at this time. I don’t think I can check insulation readings with that can I ?
Up until now I have only tried it with ALL the connectors plugged in = Tripped RCD.
Power connector (8) only plugged in = RCD not tripped and machine display illuminates.
Tomorrow I will try it with plugs 8 (power) and 9 (heater & pressure switch) connected.Hi Iadom. OK, I have connected plug 8 (power) only and the RCD didn’t trip. I pressed the ON/OFF button (thinking nothing would happen) and the machine came to life…. RCD still OK. What do you recommend as my next move?
BryanMy old control panel definitely has a latching switch: press it and the stem stays depressed and makes the circuit, press again and the stem pops out and breaks the circuit. The new board has a switch that looks identical but doesn’t latch in when pressed and only makes a circuit if it is manually held in.
The RCD trips immediately when the power is connected and I guess the machine is in OFF mode (as the switch isn’t making a circuit until pressed… which I didn’t do).
I am assuming the on/off switch is not handling the incoming power as plug 8 is listed as “POWER” on the circuit diagram so my guess is that the ON/OFF switch is designed to interrupt that supply somehow but the RCD has already tripped by that point. Plug 8 is located in the same position on both boards with plug 9 next to it for Heater/Pressure Switch. Are you suggesting I should attempt to power up with only plug 8 (POWER) connected and ALL the others disconnected? I haven’t tried that as I was concerned that it might cause damage either in the machine or on the circuit board? If you say it is ok I will try it now? The board seems to match the one shown on page 44 with just plugs 8 & 9 (2 connections on each).Hi, its me again. Now weather has turned, I am back indoors again and need to work on the washing machine again. Iadom, in your last reply you asked if RCD was tripping with just power supply connected. In answer to your question the RCD trips as soon as the machine is connected to the supply. Incidentally, I couldn’t easily tell whether the machine switch was on or off so I put a continuity across both terminals of the on/off switch on the new control panel (disconnected from the washing machine and any power source) and am getting no signal with the switch either apparently on or off which seemed odd and visually the little plunger on the switch constantly returns to the same position. On the old panel (which still works but has a mind of its own and refuses to complete a full cycle, sometimes doesn’t wash, sometimes doesn’t rinse, sometimes doesn’t spin, sometimes works perfectly … but very rarely) you can clearly see if the switch is on or off by the position of the plunger. The only time I can get an ON continuity signal on the new panel is if the plunger is held in (by my partner as I don’t have enough hands!). This doesn’t seem right to me unless the design has been changed to incorporate a momentary switch ???
I need to pick on your vast knowledge again as I am still convinced I have been supplied a duff control panel or at least one that doesn’t conform to my machine.Hi guys. Further update while “her indoors” washes clothes in the bath!
I contacted both UK Whitegoods spares and Robertshaw (the control panel manufacturers) to confirm that part supplied is correct for our machine and if there was any possibility of a fault causing house RCD tripping when new panel is fitted and machine powered up. Haven’t had a response from Robertshaw (and probably won’t) but did get a prompt reply from UK Whitegoods confirming part is correct albeit updated. They were unable to assist me with the conundrum of the tripping RCD while not tripping the original control panel (when fitted). They suggested that there might be a fault (or dampness) on the thermistor, motor or Inverter Card which might be tripping the RCD.
My question now is whether I could re-fit the new panel and power on but leaving some of the plugs un-connected to identify which circuit is tripping the RCD: plug 2 = Thermistor, plug 3 =Inlet valves, plug 4 = Door switch, pump & pressure switch, plug 8 = power (I assume that always needs to be connected), plug 9 = Heater and pressure switch (again!), plug 10 = motor.
My intention would be to not actually run the machine with any of the plugs disconnected but just identify if any single connection trips the RCD when powered on.
Could this cause any damage to the control panel or the machine itself?
Also, where do I find the inverter card and Thermistor?Thanks for your prompt reply. All the connectors appear identical, however there does appear to be slight differences in the layout of some of the components.
Hi guys, I am back again with further updates. I bit the bullet and ordered a replacement control panel from UK Whitegoods as all indicators seem to point towards a faulty unit. We were able to limp along while waiting for the replacement part as sometimes the machine would wash but not rinse or spin, other times it would rinse and spin only and bizarrely on the odd occasion would work perfectly! The new part arrived a couple of weeks ago and today (because it is raining outside) I found the time to fit the replacement unit. I had already practised the exchange by removing and disassembling and re-fitting the faulty unit a few times so when I set my mind to the swap it didn’t take too long however, when I powered up the washing machine with the new panel fitted it tripped out the power in the house. I retraced my steps to check all was ok but still the power tripped. I reverted to replacing all the parts back to the original circuit board and re-fitted it and no power outage so by my reckoning the board seems to be either faulty or incompatible with our machine. I noticed that the label on my original board stated part no.5704 XAB but the new board is labelled 5704 XBH. I assumed this just indicated a model upgrade but would still be compatible. Have you guys ever come across these part numbers before and can you shine any light on what might be the problem? I have also emailed this question to Spares at UK Whitegoods for their feedback.
Thanks
BryanHi Iadom, thanks for your reply and I suspected it was going in this direction. The full service manual would be very helpful please… how do I send you a PM with my email? Are there various PCBs on the machine or is it obvious when I go on the UK Whitegoods parts section which part I need?
This morning our machine took another unexpected turn. Instead of carrying out a full wash cycle (probably excluding the spin as it has done of late) it ran for just one minute filling, then drained and stopped. Tried clearing the memory by holding in the stop/start button + power button to try repeating the cycle but on each occasion it did exactly the same thing again. Seem to be unable to reset the machine’s memory and it tries to restart where it last failed. Anybody know of another way of forcing a factory reset? Also, is this possibly another sign of the control board failing as I am running out of ideas?
Well guys this has become a bit of a brain teaser!
In my opening thread the problem was that the machine would fail to spin. After having the panels off numerous times, and with the help of you guys, eliminated the pressure switch and probably shock absorbers / springs as culprits (as they don’t often fail) but I replaced the belt for good measure and for a couple of washes it seemed to work ok, completing the full cycle and “END” appearing on the display… yippee. Hopes then came crashing down as this week it has reverted back to the original fault again. When it doesn’t complete a full cycle (at spin) the machine appears to retain the remaining minutes and continues to stop at that point going forward. I can’t seem to clear those minutes from the memory in order to start afresh. A rough example is that the machine has stopped with 15 remaining on the display. If we select a wash cycle that would historically show 1:20 it now displays 1:35 as if it is adding on the 15 outstanding but it will then shut down at 15 again. These figures are only rough as it is not that consistent. We know it can spin ok if it wants to, but not when we want it to! Some weeks ago before this current issue materialised we did appear to have an issue with the cycle selector knob seeming to have a mind of its own and not wanting to select the cycle that we wanted without some very gentle coaxing but that issue appeared to go away. From your experience could all of our issues stem from an aging and faulty control board? But obviously I am reluctant to buy and fit a new one if the same fault persists. Sorry if this thread is a bit long but this is a novice trying to explain a problem to you knowledgeable people as concisely as I can.
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Final comment: In one of my earlier threads I mentioned water appearing to be exiting the machine without the pump running but on reflection I think I was being stupid, over reacting and it was probably the water softener which is located under the sink flushing itself through…. apologies for that!!!
BryanOK, a few days and wash loads have passed and I am starting to think that the spin problem is being caused by out of balance load however the problem has only really materialised more regularly over the last few months so a couple of new questions for you knowledgeable people:
Is there a sensor that detects OOB and if so do they become more sensitive over time?
Could the shock absorbers and balancing springs need replacing and if so is it a tricky job on the ISE W1607?Thanks for the advice. I can confirm that as far as the waste hose is concerned it is all as it should be but checked this morning to be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain. Incidentally, the machine has been in this setup for about 12 years without any fault or incident until the current spin issue at the start of this thread. Fortunately we are currently able to initiate a final spin & drain but only by clearing the memory at the point it fails to achieve selected spin speed and re-selecting spin & drain.
Thanks guys, I take on board your comments about delaying the wash.
As far as syphoning is concerned, if nothing else but to satisfy my mind, I re-checked the location of the drain hose in the waste stand pipe this morning and all looks good with plenty of air space, no gunge etc. and located correctly. I am putting the draining problem down to a one-off, possibly caused by the the original fault of not completing a full cycle correctly without intervention of needing to clear the memory and manually selecting spin & drain. The spin action obviously works but not as part of a full cycle. Unless you guys have any further thoughts of things to try, the next load of washing is due to be done tomorrow morning so I will monitor the cycle and report back. Thanks again.
