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I’ll try the ‘proper’ thermostat and attach the probe in some way to the back wall – if it works I can lose the long capillary in a small plastic enclosure if need be,
OK – maybe a metal clip or similar to attach to the back wall? It’s certainly touching the ice at the moment – STILL NOT WORKING!!!!! Might try duct tape in first instance to find a spot where it works! I can remember old fashioned fridges where the probe was simply clipped on.- perhaps to the metal side of an ice compartment?
Have now resorted to more desperate measures! I fitted another thermostat I had lying around which has a shorter capillary and routed it straight into the interior of the cabinet – actually touching the iced up section on the back wall. Predictably the compressor STILL runs continuously and apparently the thermostat is still not sensing the temperature (measured at around -1 near the capillary tip) I’m reluctant to be beaten by this fridge because the compressor seems more than capable of pulling the cabinet temperature down – it just doesn’t know where to stop!! All I need is a thermostat that will respond to the air temperature inside the cabinet. I haven’t actually tried fitting the ‘proper’ thermostat inside the cabinet because it has a very long capillary that would need to be carefully coiled up. I might try that next though. Is there any reason why the thermostat is not responding to the cabinet air temperature? Would it need to be clipped to the back wall??
Looking like it I’m afraid – although the thing’s certainly cooling the cabinet adequately. As somebody on the forum suggested it might come to a plugin timer with some ‘quiet times’ to let it defrost! Don’t like the idea of temp varying too much though so it might be Beko graveyard for this one. Pity though – it stands next to a matching freezer!
Temperature at the bottom of the fridge is higher than the top – but still at the lower end of range for a fridge – roughly +1 The stat control is at the lowest possible setting – IE just ‘switched on and no more’ so it should really be cutting out at that. A short circuited stat would explain it but I can’t see how that is even possible!
This is the strange thing. I’ve now tried three different stats – one with a short phial that I had lying around, one that was correct by model number but not product number and now one which should be (and is on comparison to the original part) correct. The phial is going into the sleeve for most of its length and hitting a stop so it must be correctly positioned. I also swopped out the starter and cutout from another fridge temporarily – although that wouldn’t really account for continuous running.
I’m 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain it’s wired correctly – even if the connections on the stat had got muddled the light would probably go off and on instead of the compressor. (??) I’ll double check the wiring today.
I’ve got a fridge thermometer on the top shelf at the moment where it’s iced up – I’ll try moving that to the bottom of the fridge to see if it’s significantly warmer.
The only other thing that might have any bearing is that a couple of weeks ago the power was switched off at the consumer unit for a while and when it was switched back on the fridge started with a loud thumping/banging noise for a good few seconds – as if the motor was jumping violently on its springs within the compressor case. Since then however it stops and starts normally when switched off and on at the stat or wall socket and it runs quietly without any undue gurgling or other noises.
Yes – completely counter intuitive – because you feel that the compressor is working its socks off and just needs to be stopped now and again to maintain a reasonable temperature and let the defrost work.
Could it be needing re-gassing?
The tip would be below the ice I guess – it’s a long phial – but since the phial disappears inside the tube it’s difficult to see where exactly it lands up.
Ice is mostly at the top and decreases as you go down – nothing at all behind the bottom two shelves (it’s a tall larder fridge)
Fitted new thermostat this afternoon and unbelievably – the compressor still runs non stop! Temperature is away down near freezing and thermostat is only set at ‘1’. I really can’t fathom this thing at all. It’s almost as if there is a fault in the wiring that’s bypassing the thermostat but that seems highly unlikely. I’ve changed the starter / cutout and that made no difference. There’s still a thick layer of ice on the back so certainly not defrosting – which is inevitable with a constantly running compressor!
Many thanks – I’ve put the order through to you. The one I have already fitted, which was supposed to be compatible has a different Ranco number to the original but the one you have given me in the link is the same as the original. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
OK – I’m not in the house just now – but will get the product code later and see if that sheds any light! Thanks ever so much for taking the time to reply – very much appreciated.
Absolutely – I’ve a feeling I compared Ranco part numbers stamped on the side with the original but I’ll double check on that and see if there are differences by product code. Don’t suppose you have Ranco part numbers for the two variants listed?
I actually tried two thermostats – I had one I bought for another fridge and hadn’t used it so even although the probe was shorter I thought I’d give it a try. It made no difference but I assumed it was just the probe not reaching far enough so bought a new one of the correct length and listed for this model. There was indeed another one listed but I assumed they would both be compatible – possibly not. I’ll get a photo of the product code and see if there’s a difference. Seems odd though because the probe is certainly long enough (it hits a stop) so unless there’s something remarkably different in the functioning of the two thermostats listed I would have thought that it would at least have cut out at some point!
Many thanks for getting back so quickly! Is the defrost cycle simply instigated by the thermostat cutting out – ie no heater or sensors? I did wonder about how the thing had been wired but it’s been fine for four years and I was meticulous about reconnecting the replacement thermostat and starter. Don’t suppose there’s a wiring diagram anywhere for this model?
