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Re: Hygena Cooker Hood conversion.
electrofix wrote:if your doing everything you need to look at the whole plan
are all your sockets in the right position?
do you want lights under the cupboards?
and now you need a spur outlet for the cooker hood. Make sure the hood is fused at max 5 amp. I get a lot of hoods where the lamps blow and instead of popping the fuse they blow a hole in the works inside the hood. The default fuse in a spur box or plug top is 13 so make sure its changedif you have a sparks onsite it wont cost a lot more to get it right and they will also check your earth system is safe and up to current standards
Dave
Thanks for that Dave.
Yes, I wasn’t looking to do all this, but bits n pieces have been offered to me.
Luckily I have been given a kitchen cupboard suite that could fit my kitchen three times over so I can modify them to fit my very small kitchen.
Then I have been offered various other bits.
So I will have to take a step back and rethink very carefully. :eeek:
Re: Hygena Cooker Hood conversion.
Thanks Dave.
You have been so helpful to my needs, I’m very grateful indeed!
I have looked online and there are charcoal filters that clip on to the two fans inside.
Maybe it’s just a case of modifying the direction of the airflow??
But that too will need electrical connection. 😮
BTW – Waiting on a Sparky to get back to me about the hob electrical installation. 😉
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
Thanks Bryan.
I am in the process of getting hold of a local Sparky!
Regards,
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
Thanks Dave.
Wow! The strictness of the Sparky world has never been so tight.
Okay, I will try get hold of a Sparky and see what they say.
Kind regards,
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
Okay.
I hope you can help me through this next part as I am a newly made 1 parent family who is also unemployed, so….
…to keep things cheap as possible, I can set up the cabling myself and then get a Sparky to connect when ready.
What is the correct cable needed for the new set up that will feed the ceramic hob?
The present cooker has it’s own 30amp circuit breaker. What do I need to get to put in the consumer unit to connect the hob cable to the consumer unit.
Please see attached image.I appreciate all your time and experience.
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
Thank you for that important information.
A Sparky it is, then!
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
Again, thanks Dave
What I meant was what do I have to do to connect the hob and oven to make them work.
But you have already suggested it.
I have had a look and the junction box is exactly that, a very tight squeeze to get both connected there.
So the only way is to have two separate cooker switches?
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
Thanks for your reply.
So what does that mean Dave?
What do I do to make both ‘live’ and ready to cook please?
Regards,
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
electrofix wrote:does you cooker switch lead down to a cooker connection point behind the unit ?
is the oven single or dual cavity ?
Dave
The cable leaves the cooker and goes into a white covered wall box that connects there. That cable travels up behind the plasterboard to the main cooker switch/socket.
The present freestanding oven is a double oven and the new (secondhand) oven, as far as I can remember is a main oven with a smaller top oven/grill.
Re: Ceramic Hob installation advice please…
electrofix wrote:its still a 3 core cable. they use a 5 core cable because it more flexible and smaller than using 3 cores
just connect both lives to the same terminal and both neutrals to the other
Dave
Thanks Moderator Dave!
Didn’t realise it was as straight forward as that. I have had previous experience installing upright cookers, in an old job working in a domestic appliance shop, so I know that much. The 5 core just threw me.
So, with the built-in cooker also looking to be connected, do I need a special cooker switch that has the space for the main oven connected as per usual and another space to connect the ceramic hob please?
At the moment I have the standard cooker socket with a switched plug socket built in.
Re: Hoover 1500 HSP 15 not starting….
WOW!!!!!!!!!
IT’S WORKING!!!!!!!
I CAN”T THANK YOU ALL, ENOUGH!!
I took another look at the programme selector and tucked up behind it was a little connecting area. So I put the unused red cable into it and selected a programme and BOOM! – it started. Weird that the cable was not in it when I started to dismantle.
Maybe it unclipped during the starting of the dismantle????
Just so happy.I REALLY CAN’T THANK YOU ALL – SOOOO PLEASED
(and relieved).Just got a cart load of washing to do now. So worth it though.
THANK YOU ALL EVER SO MUCH!!
Re: Hoover 1500 HSP 15 not starting….
Would just like to say thanks to all who have contributed to my quest to get my W/M sorted.
Hopefully we will get a solution. 😉
Re: Hoover 1500 HSP 15 not starting….
electrofix wrote:ok will use your picture its an earlier version of the switch
follow green arrow there is another plug
looks like there is an unused plug at the bottom of the picture
Dave
Thanks electrofix.
If you take a look at the original image of that area, the photo showing the programme selector has only one block of cables inserted. This photo was taken before the dismantle and all was well. The unused block (black cable) you mention, is an unused cable, I presume for another model that uses the same cabling loom.
Re: Hoover 1500 HSP 15 not starting….
electrofix wrote:switch has 2 sets of wires
mains cables at yellow
and data cable at blueyours is missing
Dave
Thanks electrofix,
Weird because, the image of my doorlock switch looks nothing like the image (with arrows) you have uploaded.
Not only this but the image of my doorlock switch in the above set of images was taken before I dismantled the machine and the lock was working fine then.
Confused!!! ❓ :eeek: ❓ :eeek: 😕
