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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Blimey, I would never have thought that after posting the answer to how to fix your American fridge freezer over four years ago that this thread would still be running!! 😀
Update for me, after four years my original repaired board is still running like new, I now have the pulsing front panel as of last weekend, and thanks to all of you on here, I don’t have to diagnose it myself this time!!
Keep up the good work!
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Graphite,
Yes, thats the board, the capacitors that require replacement are top center in that picture to the right of the three grey boxes (other capacitors) they are underneath a sticker which straddles all four.
I have found a better replacement today from RS part number 190-8551, think they were 68p each. Going to try them tonight as the one from Maplins was too big and didn’t fit the board correctly. The one’s from RS are in a different package but the lead spacing is correct for the board.
Will let you know how it pans out & will take a photo this time.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi All,
Thought as this forum has been useful to me in the past I would shed some light on this problem. My machine suffered from this exact problem this weekend and I have found what fails on the board and fixed mine.
Over time it appears that the capacitor that makes up part of the firing circuit to the Compressor relay fails. There are four relays on board, three black, one orange (its the orange one that we are interested in as this enables the compressor). The relays are enabled from the microprocessor on the board via a triac controlling the switching of live onto a diode bridge and through a resistor and capacitor on the neutral side. Over a period of time the capacitor will break down and won’t be able to hold enough energy to fire the relay (door water solenoid problem) or enabling the cooling via the compressor.
The capacitors are four on a row, white in colour and have written on them .22/10 1.70MKP 250V~ this means that they are .22uf (micro farad or 220nf nano farad) with a 10{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} tolerance and are rated to 250vac.
What I know is that holding the PCB upright with the three black relays furthest from you, the four capacitors will be nearest to you. The far LEFT capacitor is to do with the icemaker ice eject mechanism, the far right capacitor is for the compressor. To test that this is your problem swap these two capacitors (outer two) and see if you machine starts to cool and that the compressor cuts in and out.
If this works for you replace the bad capacitor with a new one either from RS components or maplins (http://www.rswww.com or http://www.maplin.com). Make sure that you get the same capacitance but the voltage can be higher without any effect (I replaced mine with a 500vac one)
Please ensure that whislt working on the fridge that you have isolated the power supply and if you are not qualified call an engineer!! You will need a soldering iron and some solder to fix this.
I hope that this is helpfull to someone and should save you alot of money.
