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Ah good point – it’s still carrying on without an error code most of the time (just F08 occasionally). So I guess the board must be faulty in some way in any case then. Thanks everyone 🙂
But I wasn’t sure if there might be some reason I’m missing why the board might decide not to turn on the elements, i.e. some sort of check it might be running at the start of the program (like checking the resistance of the elements, which some sources seem to imply might be possible, but aren’t clear about it at all), and that particular check happens to pass if they’re not connected at all. Are you saying that’s definitely not the case then?
Yeah, when it’s working the relays click, there’s 240v going to the elements and they are heating up and everything is working. When it’s not working, there’s no voltage going to the elements at all and I can’t hear the relays clicking (well only the one for the motor).
So say to start with, it’s not heating at all, no clicking from the relays. I unplug J16 and start it running again, I can then hear the relays clicking (and that reliably happens any time that connector is disconnected). Plug in J16, start the dryer running again, the relays click (same as they did when it was disconnected) and the heating elements turn on and work (for the rest of that program, with the relays clicking on and off at various points during it as expected). So the relays themselves don’t seem to be faulty, it seems to be the board deciding not to turn on the heating element relays, but I don’t know why it would do that.
Ah I didn’t know about the bulletin, but yeah, after fitting the belt I tried it in a couple of different positions and ended up moving it more towards the motor (I think in the position you describe) because I noticed it was running over the screws (which seem to be slightly raised) otherwise. Although it is actually the motor side that the previous belt had started to strip away from.
As per my last comment, pretty much all testing has been on the timed dry setting and it doesn’t heat (unless/until I do the thing with unplugging the J16 connector)
That calculator link is very handy, thanks. The element for this model of dryer is apparently meant to be 2050w, and adding the calculator results for both element resistances together (assuming 230v) does come out as very close to that. So I’m still stumped as to why it would decide not to turn the elements on.
It is supposed to be able to sense the level of dryness, but that’s never seemed to work well enough (stuff was always too damp even on the maximum dryness setting) so my girlfriend always just uses it on the basic timed setting instead and almost all of my testing was on that setting too (just trying others occasionally to see if they behaved any differently, but nope). And yep, the majority of the testing was done with a load of wet clothes in it anyway (as I thought I’d fixed it and I really needed some clean and dry clothes by then) but they spent a long time just tumbling around with no heat, not getting any drier, until I figured out what would make it start heating again (and that works when empty too)
