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I’ll check, thanks.
I have got one of those hoses that has the flood protector fitted and is has a electronic switch inside. It comes pre fitted to dishwasher.
So the other day I put the dishwasher back together, powered up and entered diagnostic mode, cleared the faults and ran a cycle in diagnostic mode. The cycle lasted around 20- 25 minutes (not sure if this is normal for diagnostic mode) and I had a thermometer probe in dishwasher. Temperature got to 38 degrees Celsius (again not sure if this is normal for diagnostic cycle). When finished, I came out of diagnostic mode and loaded dishwasher up with a normal dirty load. Set it to “wash tablet” and set to “auto”. When I set it the dishwasher off normally, it takes a few minutes before starting, and when started I usually hear the drain pump first. This runs for around a minute, then stops for a few seconds then starts again just for a few seconds and then the fill starts. What actually happened when I started the dishwasher off this time, was that this cycle started and it started filling whilst the drain pump was still running. This cycle kept repeating and I left it running like this for around 10 minutes. Eventually I opened the door, no water inside, and closed it again. This time it ran the drain cycle as usual, and then filling started (with the drain pump this time not running whilst filling) and started to run as it should. The only thing was the temperature only got up to 29 degrees Celsius (manual says 40 – 75 degrees Celsius for an “auto” program”) part way through it drained all the water and refilled, temperature only 21 degrees Celsius.
Specialist01269 I did read something about the flow sensor being an issue if you have your machine draining and filling at the same time, but why would this stop the heating?
Very odd this is.
I’ll check the inlet pipe next then
When I check any wiring, I always check the wires against themselves for a short and short to earth, also the resistance of the wires. All of the wires I’m question have 0.01 ohms. That is what I mean by checking the cables.
What else is in the circuit that controls heating. Flow through heater + thermostat, temperature/ turbity sensor, circulation motor + tacho sensor and wiring. The only thing I was unaware of is how the tacho sensor may have been an issue due to Dave informing me of it.
What can I say I enjoy a challenge in finding out how things work.
Wiring has been checked between heater and board, turbity/temperature sensor and board, motor to board, tacho to board. All ok, no shorts to ground.
Checked this last night when I got in from work. 3 micro fared capacitor fitted, tested with a multimeter and got the 3 micro fares. So bang goes that theory.
I’ll bench test the heater, put a temperature probe on and see if its heating. If it is I’ll put it back together and make a fly lead to attach to the flow through heater connector, and connect my multimeter to it and run rinse a cycle to see if power is going to it during cycle. I’ll also clear the fault codes from the board prior to starting.
Do you know roughly when the heater should come on after the cycle starts?
Could the capacitor require replacing (old worn out) not letting motor to run at full speed, meaning the tacho sensor is not reaching the required level to allow heater to start?
Checked the wiring from motor tacho connection from the plug back to the board, all ok. The only strange thing I found is that where the connector plugs into the control board this is shared with another connector and relay on the board. It is this relay that I replaced on my old board as it had around 6 ohms on the contact that should be closed and around 1.5M ohms on the contact that should be open. I removed relay from board and normally closed contact was still high in my opinion, and the other side wasn’t getting the reading of Open Circuit as I was expecting. So I replaced the relay and fitted all back together and the dishwasher was hot! When I used it for a second time in the evening it was cold, never heated. I’m at a loss. Should I replace the tacho sensor?
The old board and new board (which is fitted) are reading the same 1.5M ohm on the contact that is normally open and 0.01 on the normally closed contact on the relay in question.
Thanks for the quick response.
Perhaps I’m not using the diagnostic program correctly or misinterpreting the results.
The facts are-
Heater ok- element checked and thermostat checked. Got a reading through the thermostat and a reading of around 26 ohms for the element.
checked wiring to heater.Temperature/turbidity sensor replaced.
Control board replaced, as I read somewhere online that, that ment control board failure.
I could just bench test the motor to see if it works but I’m sure it is pumping the water around. The only thing about doing that is I have nothing to regulate the speed.
I do have a ohms reading through the wiring harness to the tacho as well.
Totally stumped now.
Hi Dave,
Finally got around to removing the motor from the dishwasher. I can see the Tacho and it looks ok. I hot a ohms reading of 228. If I turn the motor it does go up and down. What should it be?
Thanks.
Hi Dave,
Thank you for quick response.
Could the motor still run with out the Tacho as I think the motor is running on a normal cycle. Do you know if the Tacho is a replaceable item?
If the 13 flashes/beep of the “End indicator” indicates hexadecimal 13. What is the significance of the “Rinse aid” led flashing/beeping once shortly after the 13 other flashes.
Thank you for the info.
