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I had a recent fault with my AEG 61275AC dryer ~2 years old. It displayed error EH0 intermittently (and then the drum stopped) and the fault became more and more frequent. The fault seemed to sometimes come and go when moving the machine, so appeared like a loose connection. Eventually I traced the fault down to hairline cracks in the soldering of a relay very close to the mains inlet on the controller PCBA. I believe this relay is the “safety relay” referred to error code descriptions. I resoldered all six connections to this relay and fault was immediately resolved. So it seems as if ~2 years of operation had caused the hairline solder cracks, and nearly resulted in scrapping the machine. I would suggest always checking the PCBA for soldering problems when there are intermittent error codes; you need a magnifying glass to have a good look. Hope this may help anyone with similar problems.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I had the Flashing display problem with my year 2004 S20C RWW10-A/G, and following various forum advice, took a look the plunge and looked at the single electronics PCB assembly at the rear of the machine.
Note, other than the flashing display, the fridge prime function (cooling and freezing) still appeared to operate correctly; no water dispenser on my model.The problem was with the white coloured tubular capacitors (marked with what a “AV” symbol). I changed all these capacitors by carefully desoldering and replacing with new quality components from RS Components Ltd., as follows:
1.2uF I replaced with 1.0uF RS1908450 (not quite the right value, but I couldn’t find a 1.2uF)
220nF I replaced with RS1908551 (these were a bit of a squeeze side by side; not perfect, but good enough)
680nF I replaced with RS1908438 (there was a resistor in the way of the replacements; again not perfect, but good enough)When I measured them on an LCR meter, all the removed “AV” capacitors were a long way undervalue. Note, I replaced the 1.2uF with 1.0uF and it hasn’t appeared to cause any problem. In fact, as I replaced in the order listed above trying the PCB out after each value, it wasn’t until I replaced the 680nF ones that the fridge worked properly again.
Looking at the forums below, I think there are variations of the PCB with maybe different value capacitors, but my advice would be (provided you are competent at desoldering and soldering) to replace all white AV marked tubular capacitors with quality components. I am an electronics engineer, and could not locate the manufacturer of the “AV” capacitors, i.e. to me, they of unknown and dubious origin.
