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Update: Put it all back together and it’s suddenly started working fine again but not sure why.
P.S. Had a major leak at the drain pump – I’d taken it out and put it back but the plastic on one of the threaded holes had raised up into a burr preventing it from seating properly. I countersunk them and it sealed fine.
Hi Waldek, did you find a solution?
I’ve given my machine a good check over today but can’t find anything wrong, the program just stalls when it gets to the rotation section. I’ve checked the following, does anyone know of anything else I can check before it goes to landfill?
- Drum, motor and belt turn freely.
- Cleaned the drain and its hose using a hose pipe.
- All resistances in the service manual.
- Relays (coil resistance and applied a voltage to check for the click and checked the open and closed switch resistance).
- Diodes and transistors.
- Close look for any blackened electronics / damaged wires.
- Fuse on motor control unit.
- Had the motor out to confirm it’s brushless.
There is no power at the 2 wire plug in the top PCB that goes down to the motor which makes me think the problem is on the PCB but after checking all the above, I’m ready to give up. I presume that if I had an engineer round they’d just recommend replacing the board.
iadom wrote:There are some basic test routines that you could try. I will send you a private message.
iadom, I’ve got a similar problem, albeit with a ISE W256W (ASKO WM70.1) and I’d be very grateful if you could pm me the info as well.
Do you know if it is an induction motor in that model?
(Drum and motor turn by hand, belt is fine, fuse is fine).
Update: I’m pretty sure the problem above was due to the power switch. Recently, the machine has been turning off mid-cycle or quickly cycling on-off when not in use. I cut the switch wires and was able to use the machine normally by ‘hot wiring’ them. I had a good look around for the same switch but couldn’t find it. I ended up with the 13mm long one here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251356012322
It’s a little short so I straightened the legs and soldered them to a bit of breadboard with minimal engagement and it works fine.For the record, I got this idea from James360 on electriciansforums.net:
has that machine got a brushless motor if it hasnt check the state of the motor brushes also check the condition of the mains filter as they are notoriously unreliable on that model.
I attached my multimeter to measure the voltage across the on switch and as I turned the power on at the wall, the machine came on and stayed on and is now seems to be fully functional again!
I can’t be sure if it was connecting the multimeter that fixed it or one of the following:- Measuring the voltage across all diodes (using the multimeter diode setting).
- Measuring the voltage from base-to-source and base-to-collector on all transistors (using the diode setting).
- Measuring the source-to-collector resistance on all transistors.
- Allowing enough time to pass for something to dry out (although there was no evidence of water).
- General movement of cables if there is a broken one (including taking out the motor control board to check the fuse).
Now when I turn it on at the wall, it doesn’t light up until the on button is used.
It’s been an interesting project and I’ve learnt a fair bit – I was very close to giving up and buying a new one..Dave, quite a few of them are only stable during the few seconds that the lights are on after wall switch on. I’ve checked the switch and it’s OK at the board. I’ve also checked the transistors and diodes as best I can and they seem ok except 3 of the transistors give no voltage from base to one of the legs. However, as they’re in different places, I presume that is how they are meant to be and it may be caused by the rest of the circuit.
Anyway, thanks for your help, I’ll update if I get anywhere (I’ve asked ASKO and I’m going to try another board).
Kind regards,
DanI’ve taken all the capacitor voltages, see here: https://imgur.com/Hqwo9YQ (Bracketed values are fluctuating values after the lights go out)
I forgot to label the power switch – it is the connector in the bottom left corner.Thanks, your help is much appreciated,
DanDave, I’ve get the following voltages when the power is switched on at the wall (remember the power button on the machine does not function).
With reference to this: https://imgur.com/qVsABFx
Cap A = 320V
Cap B = 106V
Cap C = 5.8V
Caps A and C retain the voltage after the lights go out. However, the Cap B voltage drops and oscillates quickly between about 7 and 40V.When it was working, the power switch had to be held for a few seconds before the machine turned on – almost like it was performing a check or waiting for something to warm up.
The last post does not show my picture but basically, the D pin is the odd one and the S pins are the 4 at the other end.
Datasheet here: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/10058.pdfDave, the chip is a Power Integrations LNK363PN for which the pin-out is shown below. Am I correct in thinking that the 12V measurement should be made with the black test lead connected to the source (S) and the red lead connected to the drain (D)? If not, please advise as I don’t want to cause a short.
Photo of whole board: https://imgur.com/k0bljGH
Picture of board and reverse (flipped to match) here: https://imgur.com/bXX7t05
