[FloodGoose]

How it was built, there are several (5) rental properties on the land, and so the meter is in the Landlord’s plant room, and so that meter serves our property and there’s one for each of the other properties (as the water comes in from a spring)

[FloodGoose]

Thanks for the reply. I know it seems like a lot, but it’s strange, because, like I said, we ran a test and the usage was exactly as expected if there was no problem, so I can’t think where it could be leaking. I’d appreciate any ideas or ways to troubleshoot. Thanks

[FloodGoose]

Just to update you, I couldn’t get the outside fan working, as I couldn’t afford to take it back to the shop, but I rednecked a solution by disassembling a box fan and strapping it backwards to the outside of the outdoor unit! So, just as we’re at the peak of a heatwave, we’re enjoying lovely cool, dry air! You really saved out bacon, which would have been crispy fried otherwise! Thanks again!

[FloodGoose]

So, I just got the unit back with the power supply changed and, oh boy, it works! So thank you so much for your help, I couldn’t have done it without you.

But, 2 related issues have become apparent:

1. It turned itself on, and was running, and I can hear the compressor running outside, but the fan isn’t turning on. THe air was cool for a couple of minutes, but then warmed up, presumably because the fan isn’t taking the heat away. ANy idea why?

2. The remote has also stopped working. The display wasn’t coming on, but if I squeezed it, I could just about see the temperature etc.. change, but now nothing an dno response from the unit. ANy ida how I can try and fix it before dropping the cash and more importantly the time to get a new one?

Thanks again

[FloodGoose]

Ok, so I grew a pair and did it, and you were absolutely right. I was getting voltage from some places on the board, but those were totally dead. SO I guess it’s replace the Power supply. I will report back when that’s done. Thanks so much, I’d have been lost without your help!

[FloodGoose]

Ah, ok. I feel a bit silly! Yes, once I turned it up, it’s showing fine for the power.

So, I need to test the caps, as you said, but I’m not certain I can do it. Can I test them from the soldered, back side? I got some crocodile clip probes, but I doubt they will be able to grip, so it’s back to the standard probes. But, I can do that from the back side, right, I don’t need to get between the caps and the PCB?

[FloodGoose]

Hi again, No, I didn’t electrocute myself and die! I was waiting on some crocodile clips for the multimeter! When they came, I checked the power lines into the unit (the 3 wires coming in, not the 4 wires that go to the outside unit) and was surprised that I’m getting a 0L reading (00.1 when I use the 10A port). There certainly was power going to it before, hence the fuse on the PCB popped, and there’s still power on the circuit, because it shares it with an outside power outlet than runs a CCTV camera (which requires 12V). But it looks like, somewhere, it’s not getting to the a/c unit.
I’m not really sure where to look. There’s no isolator switch for the unit, or any other switch or anything like that, but given the issues I mention, I presume that somewhere between the circuit breaker and the unit, something is going wrong. Is that reasonable to assume? Any ideas how I can track that fault down?

Thanks again for all your help

[FloodGoose]

Thanks a lot.

One quick question, the power lines feeding the unit aren’t very long, and there’s not a ton of space, so I’m not sure if I can connect the power whilst having the PCB accessible, and not shorting anything out. Any tips?

Also, I guess stand on a rubber mat, wear rubber gloves, and handle the probes by the insulated parts for best practice. Anything else?

Thanks again

[FloodGoose]

Thanks for the reply. What am I checking on R01, just continuity from one side to the other?

And, presumably to check the capacitors, that means connecting the power first and testing while the power is on?

And finally, by power supply unit, you mean IC01? SO if there’s nothing coming from the capacitors at this point, it means replacing that?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, it’s just new to me and I don’t want to mess anything up!

[FloodGoose]

Thanks for explaining. I did that and, once I made sure to plug in the molex connectors, I was able to get continuity from Live and Neutral to L01. Could you tell me the next step I need to take please?

Thanks

[FloodGoose]

Thanks again. So, I tested it by putting a probe on each of the 3 cables that lead from the two terminal blocks, and the other probe on the backside of the PCB, and there was continuity on them all the parts RY01 and RY02. But, they seem like switches, so I couldn’t get anything from them to L01, which is a kind of induction coil just next to them, but I don’t know if that’s just because one or both of the switches are open.

So, could you advise me on the next step?

Thanks

[FloodGoose]

Also, in terms of precautions, I guess standing on a rubber mat, wearing some rubber gloves, and holding the probes by the insulated part should be ok?

[FloodGoose]

Thanks for the warning. Before I go ahead, I wanted to check I’m looking at the right part. The wires from the power input connect to two black oblongs. Are they the fuses? And I should put the multimeter probe into the leads to check the voltage? I’ve attached an album below. Thanks again for the help and advice
https://imgur.com/a/vogVrun

[FloodGoose]

Thanks so much. I’ll have a look in the morning and see if I can figure that out.

I’m really grateful as it’s already humid and muggy, and getting hotter, and the missus is already feeling unwell.

I’ll let you know how I get on (or more likely be back to ask more questions!)

[FloodGoose]

THanks a lot. SO they’re on the board? And they may be damaged even though the multimeter shows continuity? SO maybe they were also samaged at the same time as the othe rfuse (that was replaced?)

[Author]

Posts