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Thank you, Dave, your comments on the hall and hot water tank follow my understanding.
It is the boiler water thermostat purpose that I find puzzling. The boiler only operates when the hall
and or hot tank thermostats switch depending on my electronic timer/programmer [Honeywell ST6400C]
settings [Off,Timed, Continuous]. If the hall thermostat is calling for heat and the house is cold then I would expect
the boiler to operate for as long as necessary for the set temperature to be reached. This could be a long
time and I would expect the pumped boiler water temperature to rise until the heat loss from the radiators, etc,
reach equilibrium and the house eventually reaches the set 20 deg C (or whatever) and the boiler CH
switches off. This water would not in normal circumstances be anywhere close to 82 deg C, which would
be quite dangerous as you indicate?If the boiler does not have overheat protection acording to Vaillant, then it seems the rotary control could
be left at any point in its movement. However, I think the programmer must have a level comparator looking at
the boiler and the hot tank thermostats. I have checked the hot tank setting which is ca 60 deg C.Thus, I suspect, assuming the rotary control is positioned at 60 degC or above, the only purpose of the boiler thermostat
if it goes over 60 deg C is to switch the boiler off , or to close the diverter valve if the CH is still calling for heat?I had asked the question a couple of weeks ago on the Glow-worm web site but I had no reply.
Rodney – G3NDI
Re: Bosch Classixx Slimline, Rinse Aid Problem?
I have now run the machine 19 times since my last message, Martin. These have nearly all been on Quick 45 deg cycle with just a few items (glasses to show any deposits!). In answer to your query the glasses were put in the top and bottom baskets, but they all look equally clear.
The Rinse Aid has not been topped-up and the light has not come on from starting this test. I had some trouble in trying to change the level; only managed on third attempt. I did not try switching off the rinse aid (Setting 0).
The salt refill light appeared at the 11th wash. Looking in the container I was able to see the bottom and all the salt had gone – I don’t think we’ve ever seen it at that level. Last night it was about two-thirds full and has been topped-up again. The wash cycle now appears to be clean and has been since the first couple of runs with the salt and rinse aid being put on the highest level for our very hard water area (SouthEast Water). My check in 2013 showed the hardness as 304 mg/l CaCO3; the latest check shows it as 301 mg/l. The Bosch Operating Instructions indicate the hardness for Setting 3 is 3.8 – 6.2 mmol/l and converting this to mg/l is 390 to 620 – (a mmol/L is equivalent to 100.09 mg/L CaCO3). In principle our hardness level Setting 2 should be OK – perhaps the resin softener unit needs to be changed at some time?.
It looks as if the problem was
1. Softener resin needed regeneration.
2. The machine settings were just too low over a long time for the hard water area . Probably the resin managed to last as long as it has for four years, but gradually getting less and less effective.Now we know the “likely problem” and the cure!
Rodney
Re: Bosch Classixx Slimline, Rinse Aid Problem?
It was water softening salt, Martin, namely Essential Waitrose Dishwasher Salt Granules. This plus the two in my first message have always been used by my wife. The salt package states on the back more than 30{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} salt. I don’t expect it to be ANALAR quality, but it should have, I expect, minimal Ca++ ion or other contaminants that would affect the resin?
RodneyRe: Bosch Classixx Slimline, Rinse Aid Problem?
I have just found one of the Forum guides – “Dishwasher Repair Help Guides Dishwasher Water Softening Systems”. I suspect my problem relates to the resin regeneration system which I had not appreciated was inside the machine, rather than the rinse aid – the Instruction Manual on p.7 just refers to “Using Special Salt” and the system. I presumed the salt must do the softening if it was special! Clearly from the Forum Guide a resin exists which needs regeneration with the ‘special salt’.
We will run the machine without a load, no detergent on the 45 deg programme setting a number of times over the next few days with the water hardness setting increased from 2 to 3 (the maximum). Perhaps this will cure the whiteish deposit on the utensils – very obvious on glass items.
Re: Panasonic Microwave Oven NN6850 Internal Fuse
I contacted a company in Thatcham, Esteem Domestic Appliances, and following my email just before Christmas 2016 and their reply, I took the oven in for assessment. There was no urgency as we had borrowed another oven. They called me in the New Year with a quote for a new magnetron and HV diode, as I had suspected. The job was completed in less than a week for reasonable price. They advised that the magnetron failure had knocked out the HV diode which was why both were replaced. Apparently another customer had bought in the same oven with a failed magnetron – so a good life out of the original component!
Now have a working oven again, so a happy customer and can recommend them.Rodney Fry
Re: Panasonic Microwave Oven NN6850 Internal Fuse
Thanks for the comments on the HV in the ovens – I’m aware of these having made years ago a 2.5kV/0.5A power supply for an HF amplifier!
I have found subsequently that the fuse failure was not due to old age deterioration, but the fuse blows only after pressing the Start button on the oven. Checking the sequence of events I found that with a new fuse
the oven switches on and the display illuminates
the power levels are selectabel
the time intervals are selectable
the defrost levels are selectable
but placing a load, i.e. jug of water, in the oven and pressing Start button the transformer gives loud, rough hum and the fuse blows.I suspect that I have a magnetron internal failure, or possibly the HV diode in the voltage double is faulty; there is no smell of burning or discoloration or obvious shorts on the large transformer, or anywhere else. I am quite surprised to find the magnetron, e.g. 2M210-M1 and other parts available on the internet for such an old oven, but looking at the various images it seems there is little internal difference over the years, probably the main changes between makes are in the PCB for the diplay/control buttons – there is not much one can change in the transformer/voltage doubler circuit and magnetron operating around 2.4 GHz. Even the HV capacitor marked at 2.14 uFd, 2100V, is available! As I don’t have appropriate test meters I have taken the oven to a small company offering microwave oven repairs and keeping my hopes up that it will be repaired.
Rodney Fry
Re: Swan Toaster Plastic Case Removal
I hope it won’t be a SK toaster, Martin, but thanks for trying! The trouble with modern assemblies, such as in cars, many plastic items are not assembled with screws, but depend on formed clips with wedge shaped ends which are easily pushed into the main body, slipping into a small aperture. The problem then comes in pulling them apart assuming one can actually access the clip.
I have had a further look at the casing and found with a little gentle bending of the
plastic case there were just visible three further flaps/clips with angled wedges on the case back; also there was a single flap below the control knob. In addition there were three clips below the metal decorative front panel. I smeared some high temperature silicone grease on all the wedge sliding surfaces and using a scriber and small flat screw driver I eased the clips below the panel out of their apertures, then starting at the top of the case furthest from the control assembly, which had a little more flexibility with a little judicious bending of the plastic I eased the three clips out and then the one below the control knob. The lone screw at the end opposite to the controls was also undone as it held the end of the metal assembly. See image of removed upper part and bottom part with metal assembly.Now I could see the pressed metal assembly and found it was all held together by
small “ears” in slots and twisted. Also the four Philips head screws underneath the
control assembly were not screwed into this part, but into the body of the base that now remained – I tried looosening these, but bottom case need not want to come apart.I managed to free the front reflector by untwisting the small tongues and ears. I did not manage to extricate the rear reflector. Using Brasso and Silvo cleaners and a glass fibre pen I was able to clean the front reflector to a mirror finish and with the pen pushed through the bars cleaned the couple of burnt carbon patches off the rear reflector. I vacuumed the dust away to remove any pen glass fibres. It was reassembled with a small dab of silicone grease on the push down lever pistons and the plastic clips.
It still works, Martin, but took all afternoon!
Rodney
