[GingaPete]

Guys, found out what the issue was!!! Wrong pcb!! I had a mate check the board (he’s into board repairs and small units) and he said nowt wrong with it. So i emailed supplier to ask about board and they emailed to say I had wrong board supplied, so they sent a new one popped it in and we now haveheat!! So the other board will be going back this week!!

Thanks for responding I know I was a bit vague but all sorted now!

Hope you have a boss crimbo 😉

Pete

[GingaPete]

electrofix wrote:to be honesty if the board has gone it will be a small surface mount resistor so you may not see any burn marks

had a beko dryer with similar problems ie tripping RCD. Replaced heater with new and tripping stopped but still no heat. traced wired from heater NTC to board and traced tracks to find blown surface mount resistor (very small component can only see its blown with magnifying glass). replaced resistor and all was well

Dave

OK, i have a desk mounted magnifier with light for cutting stencils so could be worth a look see if there is anything that shows up, my uncle can do board work did some on a meile vac for me once. Do you know where i can get a schematic for the dsc85w as i can’t find one? Cheers Dave

Pete

[GingaPete]

Board looks fine no marks and all lights up as you would expect and goes through all settings

[GingaPete]

No worries, I wouldn’t blame you if you did say it TBH 😉 If I had found this place first I think the issue would have been sorted a hell of a lot sooner and with less parts!! As I say this bloody things like triggers broom of only fools and horses now!! Hahaaa

[GingaPete]

Specialist01269 wrote:Hi Dave: If you look at post 32, it says that the mains filter was changed but when screwed back to the machine the RCD flipped. Without the filter fitted then the RCD was fine, the wonder of Google then said the new was faulty. Way back when in the posts the op said that he’d replaced the PCB, my reading of that (may be wrong) is that the heater has only just been changed and the PCB replaced a while back.

Yes I replaced the board as it went pop, had scorched the plastic and the unit wouldn’t turn on, at this point I had not thought, or should I say google, that the heater had any issues.

[GingaPete]

you say the machine was blowing the rcd = was tripping yes

did it blow the rcd after you changed the main board = yes this only happened after the new board went in

and was the heater changed after the main board ? = yes once the heater was changed there was no RCD tripping

the order in which things happened and what parts you replaced and when can have a huge bearing. if the heater ntc was blowing the rcd then changing the panel before curing the heater may damage the panel = OK im sorry i just threw all the info into the post and it must be confusing…

Order of replacement parts and issues (hope this helps)

Part 1 Front NTC.

A few months ago the heater stopped working on the dryer. After google check there was two possible issues 1) NTC on front or 2) heater blown. After running engineer check it competed with two heat settings so assumed heater was working and front NTC must be faulty. Pulled NTC tested and was showing as 0 reading. Easy £11 ish part so new one replaced (a grey one different code at the

2971900300- i checked with company and they said this is fine

) so fitted and after reset the heater switch it worked fine for three months. Then the flash/pop happened.

Part 2 Main board.

When the flash/pop happened i opened up the front and found the scorch marks on the plastic and scorches on the board so the new board was ordered and replaced and at this point the RCD started to flip.

Part 3 Interference filter

I then found a video saying that the dryer flips the RCD when plugged in the then it can be two things 1) the interference filter or 2) the heater has blown. As the filter was the cheapest option i thought that would be easiest to try first. Ordered part and fitted (forgot to screw it to the unit) and no tripping and all seemed to be working fine! So put all back together (remembering to screw filter in place this time) and once plugged in it tripped the RCD. I opened the unit back up and just for a test i unscrewed the filter and plugged it back in and it worked. So i screwed the filter back on and RCD flipped!

Part 4 Heater and new NTC (white one)

At this point it checked all connections and all seemed fine. I removed the heater and noticed the black marks around the back of the heater and the NTC switch on heater. So new heater ordered, fitted and all other parts fitted and NO RCD flip after this so put it down to knock on effect of NTC/heater on the blink. I then tested on heat and no heat. I then ran the engineer test and still no heat at this point i was goig to scrap and put it down to a loss but saw this post and thoght it was worth running it past you before pushing it out on to the front path.

Everything works on the panel and all programs work, auro, timer etc but just no heat.

Pete
PS I appreciate you answering and any help and no worries if its a no goer and i should’ve done things different its all learing to me even with the cost 🙂

[GingaPete]

Yes this did flip before I replaced the heater and not doesn’t with new heater on. I’m fine and no worries with accepting defeat if its a lost cause its a lost cause 😉 Yeah I get what Dave said no worries all round 🙂

[GingaPete]

electrofix wrote:problem now is you seemed to have changed everything but you may have damaged new parts by getting the fault wrong

Dave

Dave, cant I go through tests on each part that I have replaced to see if they give the right readings and back track it from there? Not sure on how to test a board though?

[GingaPete]

electrofix wrote:problem now is you seemed to have changed everything but you may have damaged new parts by getting the fault wrong

Dave

Yeah im coming to that sinking feeling Dave!! Ah well better sell some art!! 😉

[GingaPete]

Specialist01269 wrote:You said in post #26 that there were scorch marks on the RCD board and then when you replaced it, the RCD flipped.

Yes, there was a flash/pop when my wife started the dryer and when I took the top off and front panel where the flash/pop was there was scorch marks on the plastic and the board, I replaced the board, as soon as the plug was put in and switched on the RCD flipped. After checking online it looked like it could be

interference filter, this was replaced (I only just remembered this next bit) and when connected BUT NOT SCREWED TO THE MACHINE it didn’t flip the RCD and the dryer switched on and seemed fine.

After this I attached the filter to the machine, put the dryer back together again and moved it back into place. It was then filled and switched it on and then the RCD flipped!!

After removing the washing and the top of the machine I unplugged the filter and checked it and it looked fine so I put it back on but didn’t screw it to the back of the machine and when the power was put on it was fine! I then attached the filter to the machine again and it flipped the RCD.

So again another amazing google and it then looked like the heater can cause this if its blown/faulty and might have been going since the first front NTC went.

New heater was ordered and replaced and all hooked up with filter to machine and RCD didn’t flip and dryer seemed to be working fine BUT still no heat and again no heat on engineer test as explained.

As you can guess I’m no expert and mainly rely on google/youtube to have a go and waste my hard earned cash but I’d rather try than just throw kit away and I usually learn something from most jobs I do, even if this one might be BUY A NEW DRYER and disconnect access to google and youtube!! 😉

All help is appreciated

Cheers
Pete

[GingaPete]

Hi Dave sorry for late response,

RCD

trips stopped when i replaced the filter and heater.

Parts replaced
Front door NTC twice, first was a grey one which i wasn’t sure they sent the correct one as but after emailing the company (ransom spares online) they said this was correct. But replaced with white one from espares with when i got the pcb board. https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1603711

PC board as old one had scorch marks in two places.

https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1662021

Interference filter (as after the above it started to trip mains).

https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1744830

Heater as black marks on back and NTC.

https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1773470

Yeah in know i should’ve been more hands on fault finding but ill be very honest when i checked out known issues for the problems they all seemed to point to easy switch out replacement parts and as they were cheaper than a replacement and i was under pressure (mounting washing and a not happy wife lol) to do quick turnaround i jumped in!! I now realise jumping in isn’t going to the quick answer!! I may have been better to buy a new one but i just hate throwing stuff if i can get them going again and i do OK on most bits like recently replacing heater and fans in two ovens that are out of warranty.

Sorry Dave I’m not sure what red board is referring too the only board I replaced was the scorched pcb board, after this replacement the mains flipped.

At this point i was like sod this ill get a new dryer!! Then on more research it seemed that the cause could be the interference filter so i got a new one, but still had issues with tripping mains. So after yet another google (I’m sure it works for others but don’t think it will catch on) there was reference to a knock on effect of front NTC going and not being able to get a click on the reset switch on back of heater and this being an issue with faulty heater.

So i checked the back of the heater (which had heated up using engineer test prior to front NTC replacement) as it wasn’t heating and there was black marks on back of heater and the ntc connections. So I jumped to the conclusion that the heater was at fault hence new swap out one fitted.

After this was fitted along with the new front door NTC (white one as didn’t then have confidence in new grey one) all seemed fine, no tripping and all lights up correctly and settings worked but after half an hour still no heat.

I ran the engineer test again and it didn’t warm up at all but noticed that at test stage 5 it didn’t move to next test level and was still flashing drying? Engineer test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHuOLIM_qDE

At this point it was getting wheeled out in to the front garden and given a kicking but I decided Google might throw me a life line and this is how I found this post and you guys.

Pete

[GingaPete]

Just realised that during a new engineer test the “clean filter” stays blinking all the time during each stage. Test stages 1) Drum turns, drying light on then with buzzer cancel flashing. 2) Drum stops Iron Dry light blinks then with buzzer cancel flashing 3) Drum turns, Cupboard dry

then with buzzer cancle flshing 4) Drums stays turning End/Anti creasing then with buzzer cancel light 5) Drums stays turning, drying flashes (with clean filter as all stages) but it does not flash buzzer cancel light on this stage and then stays on this and will not go to next test. Not sure this helps but i’ve run out of ideas for now and this washing it piling up 🙁

[GingaPete]

electrofix wrote:some of the early ones had a problem with the NTC on the heater shorting to earth and tripping rcd’s

what colour is the body of the rear NTC ? older one is grey, newer one is white

if this is your problem then you may have damaged the board. Had one with similar problem and traced it to a blown resistor on the board

also if you find this you will need to replace heater unit

Dave

Hi guys, sorry to jump in here but i’ve been searching for info regarding my DSC85w having similar problems I used a video that showed how to perform engineer test to see if the heater was still working and it did BUT when using normally the heating did not come on.

I checked and found espares video to get the NTC changed (grey to new white one) so replaced NTC

and this worked fine for a couple of weeks then there was a small pop by and when i checked the rcd board there was scorch marks on some resistors so i replaced that but then when plugged in the rcd flipped! So checking more videos put in new interference filter, heater and new NTC (just incase) off espares (hope to get a Christmas card or invite to the office night out if this carries on) all set up and seems fine but still no heat?

My uncle (electrical engineer retired) is popping over and going to run some tests on it but asked if I could find a wiring schematic for it but I cant find one.

So my two questions are 1) anyone know where I can download a diagram and 2) i

s there anything else that I may have missed as this dryer is turning out like Triggers broom 😉

Any help appreciated

Pete

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