[godlyk]

So its a case of the terminals are old and have built up resistance which has caused them to melt?
Why has it happened to the terminals of the grill element as opposed to the oven element for instance, Im sure both the connections was very clean and well made when the oven was manufactured.

[godlyk]

I managed to get the crimped connectors off the cables, cut out the damage, put the connectors back on the wires, cut a zip-tie so cables would reach and did a megger test on the oven and all came back ok.
Plugged it in and its all back to normal and working fine.
Is it safe to say the grill element maybe faulty which has causes resistance and melted those wires?

[godlyk]

Ok, I see the Neutral path from the socket goes nowhere into the oven so that makes sense.

2 of the damaged wires are 16awg 150C 300v, could I replace these with 18awg 105C 600v?

[godlyk]

Dave Id just like to thank you for taking your time in order to try and help.

Ok cool, so I will think about how I can repair the harness, the wire is oxidised and will need 1-2 inch cutting off, I have a couple of reels of copper cable knocking about so I can extend these and heat-shrink back over the solder joins, do I match the wire rating or be better is this ok?

I spoke to a friend who repairs washing machines and He thought the same as you say in regards to needing a new element so thats been ordered.

I’m more worried about fire to be honest, I have to live with this thing under my bedroom, I want it in a safe state so these damaged connectors and wires have to go. Could you maybe help me understand a few things;
Why does the oven present the same symptoms when the grill element is unplugged, is it also because of the damage to the wiring loom?
To add to the question above, when I separate the 2 blue wires the oven is just lifeless.

I have a Insulation meter so I am able to test the oven in depth, So I decided todo some insulation tests on it; however I don’t really understand what Im doing here, I was directed by my friend. All cabling is presenting 2.0 megohm insulation results until the point of when I connect those 2 blue wires.

[godlyk]

So I took the oven out and did some deeper investigation.

I found burnt connectors on the back of the grill element. 1 blue wire is disconnected from the connector.
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I have tested components within the oven with a multimeter;
Cut-Outs reads 0.3 ohms.
Oven element reads 28 ohms.

Grill element is acting very strange, I cant get a good reading when I use the prongs I saw many different readings including some in million ohms…, however with the croc clips it reads 21 ohms.

So I know this might seem dangerous, however I switched the socket back on, and touched the blue wire onto the prong it had broke off, I can see the wire arcs but if held on the connector the oven returns to normal and powers back on.

I have established the harness is damaged, can I repair this, is it even safe to repair? I have soldering skills and would have no issues replacing the connectors. I’m just unsure if the grill element is broken or not what with the inconsistent readings I got. Is it the element thats broken causing resistance which has made the wires burn out?

[godlyk]

electrofix wrote:i would check there is power getting to the oven first

check the socket (if its plugged in )

check the oven terminal block

we need to be certain the unit is getting power before we look else where

Dave

Socket is working fine with a kettle.

I need to check the terminal block in the morning.

I think the unit gets power, If I do the door slam like in the video with the plug socket switched Off then the display doesn’t flash up like it does when the socket is On.

[Author]

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