Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi Dave, I have now come to the probes. I think the board has gone but this is what I found.
The 2 probes have different connectors and so are not interchangeable without cutting wires. The resistance on both of them is 540ohms. The oven wont run with the probe unplugged and gives an error code on the front display of FO3 which I suppose is what it is supposed to do if a probe becomes open circuit.
I have now started getting fluctuating voltages on the only element that is being supplied (the fan element). It climbed to over 400V which is crazy and I was surprised it didn’t cause a problem (I switched off before it could get any higher).
I doubled checked everything here thinking maybe it’s me doing something silly but all looks as it should as far as my testing. I even tested the live on the element to earth to give my testing a level to test from but still the voltage was giving silly readings. Is this the board messing up on everything do you think?
Right this is what I found. I really expected to find the hidden element that has its connections on the right side of the appliance to be blown but I tested it and the ohms is correct as is the case with all 3 elements. So I needed another approach, so I decided to run the oven asking for full heat (and apart) which it eventually gets to and no wonder its taking so long, only the 1600w fan element is getting any power. I tested each element between the connections and to earth but the other 2 elements remain unsupplied even after 30 minutes running so its definitely not any staggered start or anything like that.
Only one element is ever working just to be clear here, so the fault has to be something the other 2 elements have in common.
I noticed there is a click about every 3 minutes roughly, this is the case right from a cold oven as it heats and I found this click is the power to the fan element ie the element is fed for 3 minutes and then turned off for 3 minutes and then back on and so on. Maybe it is supposed to do this on this element but I would have thought not if the oven is still relatively cold so is it supposed to click on and off from cold do you know?
Maybe this would work fine as part of the normal running if the other 2 elements were working.
Anyway I then wanted to know where the clicking is coming from, not that this is necessarily the fault, and I saw a spark every time this click is heard (it sounds a bit like a relay coming on and off). The spark came from the circuit board numbered 216 and titled “POWER BOARD MAIN E0. D.F.UI MICRO +STANDB”. Hard to tell but there seems to be a row of what could be little white relays on this board so maybe it is a relay operating.
So any ideas what I should do next?
If it is the power board at fault which is over £100 then I don’t think its worth fixing.
By the way I tried the oven control in every position and tested each element in each position but nothing changed.
Help!
Yes I replied too quickly I did spot it eventually, just wasnt expecting the positioning of it, above the oven and connections at the side. I thought I was looking at the grill element at first but it appeared to be shown in a funny position and eventually it all clicked. When I saw a base element listed in the parts I expected to find it in the base of the oven and not on top of the other element in the roof of the oven. Anyway I will investigate this tomorrow hopefully and get back on here. It has to be the culpret.
Brilliant Dave, your amazing finding those drawings, cant believe you found some. Seems to confirm I have found all the elements so what could my fault be do you think?
Had another thought that may help, the fan element is 1600 watts and the roof top one is 2400 watts making a total of 4 kW in the oven. Does that sound about right or should it be higher indicating there must be another element?
I wasn’t confident the fan was spinning freely enough so I have taken it off and serviced it again and it spins longer after stopping now and I think goes faster while running but I Googled how long ovens take to heat to full and it seems most do it in 10minutes where as ours is taking 45 minutes to reach 230 degrees (the maximum) so something is very wrong.
Its performing similar to when the fan element failed so it really makes me think there is another element failed but I can see and have tested both the fan element and oven roof element and I cant find any other element. I havent opened the bottome as that is quite awkward to do, implying to me that it is not something you are meant to do and watching online videos shows the base element, if there is one being removed from the back at base level. I can see no wires going to the base but the way this oven is performing I’d say really makes it seem an elemnt has failed.
Is there anyway I can confirm how many elemnts the oven has?
Googling it I cannot find any exploded views nor any wiring diagrams. I’ve even looked up current models that look the same and they dont seem to have any wiring diagrams available either.
Why is it so difficult, at one time you could get exploded diagrams for loads of things. Its like a secret now. One diagram and I would know straight away if there was any other illusive elements.
electrofix wrote:try this turn the oven on wait till the fan seems to be at its full speed. then switch off and watch how quick it stops. it should slow down gradually if it seems to stop quickly then the bearings are still tight and this may be part of your problem
also this seem quit a complex setup where on different setting different combinations of elements are used so make sure you are on the correct setting
if the probe was faulty it would never reach the desired temp
Dave
Cheers Dave so can a slow traveling fan cause the “slow”/”near impossible to reach max” problem?
