[Jim47]

Thanks Dave,
I have never had to replace a door / drum seal before. I’ll pop the front of and see if it could be rotated, i’m assuming if there is no drain of hose from the seal and it doesn’t split during removal then its defiantly worth a go.

[Jim47]

Thanks Dave,
Its a shame I can’t source something because the machine is running perfectly, i’m guessing the door was shut on some laundry which caused the seal damage and the leak to occur against the glass door.

Many thanks for your help.

[Jim47]

Lets hop so Dave but its hard to say at the moment, if it has an internal leak it only a matter of time till it goes again.
I will repair the sump leak and run the washer for a few days to see what happens.

Many thanks for all your advice.

[Jim47]

Thanks again Dave,
Got the last two digits of the Enr number (18)
I had recorded the data from an id sticker on the rear of the washer but did not notice the stamped number on the inner door skin.
The link that you attached for Bosch worked a treat and it looks like part no 00651956 is the correct pump for my machine and… its twelve quid cheaper on here.

I put the old pump unit on again this morning and ran a wash with the heat coil disconnected to see weather the machine would trip out the power supply, it seems the machine just wants to keep running, it ran for over and hour or so through refill, wash and drain cycles, at this stage it would normally have tripped out so I paused the wash, shut of the power supply and reconnected the heat coil on the pump, when restarted the machine heated up and then went into a drying cycle before powering down, we then loaded it up with dishes and completed a full wash at 50 decrease but I have two reasons why the machine operated as normal.
(1) when the heat coil was split from the pump assembly i noticed some damp and soap residue around the plastic cover and metal heater coil assembly, (possible internal seal leakage) the pump was able to dry out after removal which may have solved a possible electrical short condition.
(2) when the machine is running with warm water only (not cold water as was during previous operational tests) slight leakage occurs along the R/H side base seal which drips on to the water proof protection flap for the lower electrical panel and drips of just below the pump in question.

SO I NOW HAVE A WATER LEAK..
I have read different forum discussion regarding Bosch dish washer water leaks along the R/H side of the sump and see a 12005744 repair kit available, although water leakage has not activated the lower pan float switch since mid 2019 (which only occurred once) I would rather carry out a suitable repair now before the problem could get worse.
All in all I wish to replace the heat pump and repair the water leak, any suggestions on the best repair option?

[Jim47]

Thanks Dave
I am still unsure what or where the Enr number is but my motor looks identical to the 651956 image although the motor ratings could be different.
By doing an earth leakage test do you mean a continuity test between the earth pin and either heat coil pins?
Coil resistance between both coil pins (red wire connectors)19.3 Ohms
Coil resistance between the earth and either of the two coil pins rises through the test metre ranges before showing an open circuit.
(I would assume this test should go straight to an open circuit if all were ok?)
Ill get the motor back on and run a wash to see what happens with the coil disconnected.

[Jim47]

Hi Dave
I know its not the best approach but I have jumped the gun a bit and removed the pump to get a better view for ordering a replacement on here, I think it is part no 00651956.
Even tho I have took a gamble on the pump for now I will still slip the old pump back in and disconnect the heater coil for a test run.
Apart from that If one knew the power demands the heat coil required would it be possible to carry out a bench test?
prob better avoid this as a fire works display would be to early for new year 😎

[Jim47]

Hi Dave
What is a Enr number and FD number?
I can see an id tag on the rear of the machine
SMS50T02GB
7402293
3 / 192 (189)

[Jim47]

Hi All,
My Bosch dish washer has started tripping out the electric supply and my wife is going nuts, PLEASE HELP!
It seems to run for part of the wash program and then trip out the fuse board power supply which it has ran on from new, I am aware the machine is getting on a bit so a replacement may be the best option.
Let me make it clear that i am not at all familiar with how the washer operates but the forum has helped me out in the past and curiosity gets the better of me.
I done a little research and removed both side panels for a look, I started a rinse cycle which seems to work fine, the drain pump runs for about 10 – 15 seconds and then the water fill function takes over, the machine then washes for about 30 minutes before the drain function kicks in again, the control panel switches of and no water is found inside the machine.

If I then switch the control to a normal wash cycle I believe the machine runs a rinse cycle first as the water remains cold and the detergent dispenser has not opened, the machine runs on for a bit and trips out the power supply, when the door is opened the detergent dispenser has opened and cold water is found in the wash area. could this be a faulty heater element?
I can see two heavy red wires and an earth plugged in beside what looks like a water circulation motor and pump, is this for a heat coil and can I disconnect to see if the machine still trips out or runs with an error code?

[Jim47]

Since tilting the machine back and draining the water from the flood sensor compartment the machine has been running fine.:)

[Jim47]

Ok Guys, I’ve replaced both temperature sensors for the fridge and freezer compartment on my Beko and the compressor still does not run, I did however connect the fridge sensor on the outside rear of the fridge as the original sensor is encased with insulation, I assume it should be fine for testing when the machine is at room temperature?
Should I replace the main control board or just call it quits.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Jim47]

Thanks Dave, I’ll run it and see if the light returns.

[Jim47]

Sorry im only getting back to this issue now, if I run the compressor unit on a powered link and monitor both the fridge and freezer compartment air sensors the resistance value rises on both sensors, If I then remove my compressor link wire and reconnect every thing up as normal the fridge compressor runs for four to five seconds when powered up and then switches of.
if I don’t run the compressor first with the link wire it wont switch on at all when powered .
Im assuming the temperature change in both conpartments is enough to trigger a faulty air sensor into starting the compressor up?
Think I will order the sensors from your link Kwatt and see what happens.

[Jim47]

Sorry Dave, it’s 12.70 K ohms

[Jim47]

Good advice guys.
Your right Dave, after using a different metre the potentiometer reads around 1K ohms at MAX position, but this value can fluctuates about 0.200K.
It reads 45.6 K ohms at the MIN position so I assume this is fine?
Ive also checked out both sensors, one is 12.30 K ohms and the other 12.70 ohms.
is it fair to assume that they should at least enable to compressor to start and run?
Kwatt I don’t mind ordering both sensors but it would be nice to rule out either the control board or sensors if possible, cheers for the above link.

[Jim47]

Model No CDA539FW-2
Serial No 1011343604

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