Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Unable to change my email in Control Panel
kwatt
Thank you for your quick response. I tried again and it still refuses, somtimes doing the same as before, sometimes saying incorrect password. I do the following:
1 click reset to clear everything
2 type in my new email in the top 2 fields
3 type in my password in the bottom (5th) field
4 Press submitRe: Stoves Q720EM digital clock/timer display is not very br
kwatt
Thank you.
The label inside the lower oven says Model 058505050 Serial No 00935264. On the knobs panel it says SERIES Q 720 EM DO HERITAGE DOUBLE OVEN. It is about 10 years old – a built in double oven with fan assist.
Re: Stoves Q720EM digital clock/timer display is not very br
Clive
Thank you – I was expecting that :-(. I think the display unit itself must be starting to fail.
I cannot find a Stoves spare. I opened the oven and found the timer PCB has a label EL720/005.21A.
Further research suuggests that it is a generic EL720/5 clock timer made by Indesit and used by Ariston as well.
I might try replacing the electrolytics – I came across this elsewhere:
Why is the vacuum fluorescent display dim/dead?
Usually because one or more of the 10uF electrolytics on the display panel has died. Replace them all and check for poor solder joints as well. Note that all vacuum fluorescent display tubes have a “burn” mark. During manufacture, a tiny piece of magnesium is ignited inside the tube in order to use up any remaining oxygen after the air has been sucked out.
Re: Bosch SGI3305GB – not cleaning – pumped water pressure l
ps
Don’t forget to catch the water (brine) from the salt container if you tip up the base. As a precaution, I also refilled the container with water just in case the water softener needed to remain wet.
Re: Bosch SGI3305GB – not cleaning – pumped water pressure l
Thank you for your suggestions. It seems to be fixed (or it is certainly MUCH better).
The correct water level in the machine is about 1/3 – 1/2 way up the salt cap
The water level is about 1/2 way up the low (right) side of the salt cap.
I stripped the machine down (removed the front panel, undid the 6 external screws and the 4 internal ones, unscrewed the salt reservoir ring, unhooked the 2 door springs and lifted off the tub to gain access). I removed the pump and heater from the sump as a unit (I couldn’t separate them) and then removed the pump housing (rotate it after depressing the tab). Everything looked fine. The rotor is clean and undamaged and does not slip. I blew through the heater and it was clear.
I re-read the Basic Faultfinding Guide at http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ge&pid=206 and wondered about the motor capacitor as a failing capacitor gives my symptoms (now that I have fixed the low water level) of not enough power from the motor.
I had a lightning strike recently which took out two PCs so I wondered if it could have damaged the capacitor. The motor is OK – the main winding is 50 Ohms, the phase-shift winding 75 Ohms.
I found a method of testing the capacitor on the web (I am a trained electrical engineer), and while it told me the capacitor was OK, the capacitor only had about 220-230V across it during the test, and I (later) measured 380V across the new capacitor when the motor was running.
I decided to invest £6 and I bought a new 5uF 440V flame resistant metal can motor start/run capacitor from RS Components.
It appears to be cleaning OK now. When re-seating the tub I forgot to re-seat the labyrinth and the level control pipes so I got a leak.
What do I think the problem was? Penguin45’s comment about the blocked level control assembly and pipe was definitely a factor because my red “overfill” float was lifting during fill which (I now know) is a sure sign of problems with filling. I remain amazed about how little sludge is needed in the fill loop to cause problems! I guess the sludge is from the water softener as the fill loop is quite separate from the recirculating loop used by the water when pumped during a wash.
Did the capacitor make it better still? I cannot be sure. I was going on how it sounds and I don’t think it sounds any different after the capacitor was changed. I think it used to “swish” more than it does but I cannot be sure. However, the £6 was well spent – taking the machine out and apart is easy, but time consuming.
… and Bosch machines are well engineered – everything is a push fit. I found the exploded diagrams on the Bosch web site very useful too.
So, many thanks for your assistance. I have posted details in the hope it will assist others reading it. I was initially quite daunted by the prospect of getting access to everything in the white plastic tray at the bottom of the machine but it turned out to be quite simple to lift off the tub (easier with a helper).
Re: Are Chest Freezers no longer suitable for Garages ?
I have been doing a little research.
EDIT Have a look at Installation Advice – Fridges & Freezers In Garages Or Outhouses at http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ge&pid=182 END EDIT
First, let us ignore the problem with combined fridge/freezers with only one compressor. They should never be installed in garages (or unheated kitchens) if only because when the ambient temperature gets too cold (eg switch off the central heating while you are away over Christmas) you may find the freezer has defrosted on your return because the fridge hasn’t got warm enough to cause the compressor to run. Also let’s ignore the valid concern about condensation causing rust on the case – it does, but I can live with that in a garage. Whether condensation is likely to form on, or drip onto, the electrics and be a safety hazard is another question …
What we are worried about is “Will the freezer operate when the ambient temperature in the garage is low? If so, will it operate without damaging it or me? What is the lowest ambient temperature that the freezer will work at? What freezers are suitable for use in a garage?” It is VERY difficult to find definitive answers to these questions.
There seem to be several pointers
1 Some posts say that the compressor oil gets too thick and this shortens the life of the compressor. Or that refrigerant dissolves into the oil. Or that the refrigerant gas itself doesn’t work at low temperatures.
Some USA Kenmore fridges are fitted with an auxiliary heater which attaches to the compressor and heats it (and the oil?). See http://www.kenmore.com and find fridge Model 60722 which says “Featuring an auxilliary heater, this all-refrigerator can be used indoors or in unheated locations like the garage or basement” and “This all-refrigerator is designed to operate in unheated locations down to an ambient temp of 10 degF [= minus 12C]. No more worries your fresh food will freeze in a cold garage”. So it works in a garage. Google Kenmore garage kit and you will find lots of information.
However, none of the Kenmore chest freezers on their web site claim to have an auxiliary heater and be suitable for garages. I am guessing but perhaps this is because freezers have to work with the gas at a much lower temperature than fridges so even an auxiliary heater won’t work.
EDIT. Google Kenmore garage kit or similar for lots of stuff about garage kits. A garage kit for a Frigidaire fridge can be seen at http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetai … &PPStack=1. It is Part No 1037646 and says “Garage refrigerator heater kit. This kit is designed for Frigidaire top freezer refrigerators placed in garages or basements where the temperature drops as low as 34 degrees Fahrenheit. *Note: Refrigerator MUST have been built in or after 2001 for the kit to work.” It wraps round the compressor. END EDIT
2 Beko seems to claim some of their Fridge Freezers work down to -15C.
For example, the Beko Refigeration Brochure (available at beko.co.uk says the Beko Combi Fridge Freezer / Frost Free Model CDA648F “Operates in cold ambient temperatures down to –15°C (e.g. suitable for garages)”. Before you congratulate yourself on having found what you want, look at the spec at the end of the brochure which say the CDA648F is Climate Class SN. Now SN is 10C min to 32C max!! The other classes are N is 16C to 32C; ST is 18C to 38C and T is 18C to 43C. So Climate Class SN works in the coldest ambient but still not enough for an unheated garage. If I read their brochure correctly, Beko appears to be confused.
3 I went to Comet and looked at individual freezers. The HOTPOINT RC17P says “Suitable for use in outbuildings” so I go off to the Hotpoint site and download the brochure which does not give Climate Class or minimum ambient for any freezer. However, deep in the small print I find “For climate class information and advice such as whether your appliance is suitable for use in an outbuilding or location other than a kitchen, please call our product information team on 08000 92 19 22“.
My conclusions? There are obviously valid reasons why a freezer should not be operated in a garage and if it does not explicitly say “Suitable for use in a garage” then it almost certainly isn’t and should not be used in a garage. Many people will say “but mine works OK in the garage …” but I would hazard a guess that those killed by condensation on the electrics won’t be among them.
If you really want to be safe and certain, then contact the manufacturer and ask them which models are suitable for use in a garage and why.
And please – if you do find one, post back here to help all of us.
Re: Bosch SGI3305GB – not cleaning – pumped water pressure l
ps…
I love the little bug in eastlmark’s sticky about cleaning dishwashers. It caught me out – I was thinking I would have disassemble my monitor before I cottoned on – wonderful!
Re: Bosch SGI3305GB – not cleaning – pumped water pressure l
Alas my optimism was unfounded.
The whole inlet assembly including labrynth, the water level control assembly, and the pipe from the water level control to the inlet of the pump are as clean as the proverbial whistle.
But I still don’t get enough pressure to get the spray arms spinning properly and I don’t get that “swishing” sound of the water hitting the sides and top of the washer. However, I think it is better that before I cleaned it. (I guess I thought the action was more vigorous after cleaning because I was running it without it being built in so it was noisier than normal.)
Does anyone have a suggestion for my next step?
Q1. Is it most likely to be the water pump or its impeller or a blockage in the pump? Should I remove the pump and clean them and see if the impeller blades have broken off?
Q2 Is it possibly the motor itself? I have 240V on pin 1 of the main motor, and the capacitor looks fine (no discolouration or leakage). Are there any tests I can run on the motor? I can borrow a rev counter – what speed shouldf it rotate at?
Q3 Is there anything more I can do to check for blockages somewhere?
Any help will be gratefully received and acknowledged.
Re: Bosch SGI3305GB – not cleaning – pumped water pressure l
Penguin45
Many thanks for your help, especially as the post to which you pointed me seems to have worked.
I realise that moderators like you give an enormous amount to the forum – your 19,000+ posts speaks for itself. I thought I did search very thoroughly before posting – I spent over 2 hours. My search arguement was bosch cleaning and while it picked up the post you pointed me to, its title lead me to ignore it -is “Bosch SGS4302 – not heating up and stuck on 1 minute”. Mine is heating up, and it does not stop after 1 minute, so I did not read it :-(. I did read at least 40 or 50 others though! Of course, someone more experienced than me would realise that the two symptoms probably shared a common cause.
Could it be retitled to include not cleaning in the subject?
Secondly, while you say “You couldn’t find one of the numerous posts about Bosch machines underfilling” I erroneously thought I had eliminated that by “I poured in several jugs of water and raised the level to the salt cap, and tried washing, but it made no difference.”
Also, I was working on the assumption that the red float (which I could see was operating the microswitch during fill) was the level control managing the water level. I now believe it is probably the overflow control – stop everything – we have too much water. Certainly, I have run a rinse and I am now running a wash, and in neither case did the red float rise off its floor. Its container has no water in it.
Anyhow, I removed the level control assembly and the pipe to the pump. Both contained small quantities of a very soft brown sludge – so little that I doubted cleaning it out would make any difference. However, I cleaned it all thoroughly and it seems to have fixed it!! Certainly, I am getting a much more vigorous sound from it like it used to do. I don’t have any dirty dishes to try it with as we have resorted to hand …
My observations are
1 During fill for both wash and rinse, the red float does not rise as the water level never gets high enough to cause it to rise. I assume the shallow circular diaphragm is the water level control – as the water rises it traps the air in it and operates the left / upper microswitch. I am now not getting any banging during fill. The fill water now courses through the assembly and into the pipe so fast only the bottom half of the pipe has water in it.
2 I was confused by the labyrinth. I now realise that the left two large bore tubes are the waste outlet “break the syphon” U with an air hole. I took the labyrinth off and cleaned the inlet water tube going to the float assembly – it did not matter that the Labyrinth was empty when I restarted the machine.
3 I needed to put some water in the machine to prime it to get it to go.
So, many thanks for your help! I will post again to confirm it is working when I have done a wash.
(As an aside, I guess that the head driving the water into the pump is only an inch or two, so any constriction or blockage in the pipe or assembly will have a big effect.)
