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Problem not resolved but over Christmas we set the third knob to the first grill setting which switched the cooling fan on at the left side. we did not turn on the fourth knob so the grill itself was not heating up. E22 did not occur but sometimes the touch controls for the hob were erratic. At least it can be used like this.
Warning: Do not leave pans on top of the hob over unused ‘rings’ if the hob is switched on. We have had a few ruined pans when the rear right ring turned itself on when we were not using it.
If the problem is a PCB fault, it may be best to get a Stoves engineer out – the PCB’s cost about £500, I’ve not seen any on line at the £30 – £50 cost price you would expect. The official neon indicators cost about £17 when compatible ones cost pence on line. I can normally fix things by exchanging parts myself, avoiding the service engineer cost, currently we do not want anyone from outside in the house for obvious reasons.Thank you for your advice. Feeling the draft must have been my imagination. I changed the cooling fan and tested it – nothing happened. So I traced the wiring. The fan only operates if the top (left) oven/grill is switched on.
When we used the (bottom left) oven last, I also ran the top right oven at minimum (60 C) temperature so the fan at that side was working. One of the hotplate ring touch controls managed on-off but did not work properly. At least the hotplate operated without an E22 cut out. My thoughts are that a printed circuit board on the hob is degrading with age and affected by the heat from the lower oven. But what circuit board? If I know what to get, I should be able to change it.
Would it be reasonable to wire the fan in so it operates when the lower oven is switched on? Have you any other suggestions please?I will change the fan anyway – it may work intermittently, I can feel the draft, but do not hear it over the noise from the fan oven.
