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Hi Dave.. Its been a while.. Coronavirus put everything on hold.. But I have finally had change to write.
I swapped the freezer out for the HM325 and its all good.. This has given me chance to look at the HM315 to see if its actually faulty..
Before I start, I have to make a confession.. I have realsied that I didn’t have enough ventilation.. When I installed the HM315 for some reason I assumed there was enough air flow.. But when I fitted the HM325 I studdied the instructions again and realised that I got it all wrong.. So I have now fitted a large vent into the kick board under the FF.. So its entirly possible that the fault was caused by lack of ventilation?
First of all, Ieft it unplugged for a good few weeks. A bit of water came out, but not as much as I feared…
But when I finally plugged it in, the first time i opened the door I got the 7 clicks, so the fault is exactly the same.
I have taken the board out (I didn’t realise it would be that easy) and all looks good with no obvious scorch marks or component damage.. There is a large resister which was rocking and had lifted its pad, but I wonder if that happened during removal of the board. So I have repaired that..
So do you have any thoughts now as to where I go from here? I could just scrap the freezer, but its in such nice condition and only 10 years old, it seems a shame.
If you have any thoughts as to what I could test, I am all ears.
Thanks in advance
Jon
I will certainly be coming back for help soon… I have come up with an ingenious plan. I am going to buy the replacement and will then move the faulty one into the garage to see what defrosting does.. If it works, I will scrap my 30 year old fridge freezer and put my HM315 in its place.
If the defrost doesn’t fix it, I can then try to fix it and will have all the time in the world to do so.. So once I get the replacement delivered and installed I will probably be back to ask for advice on how I can fix my old one.
electrofix wrote:yes meter seems ok so unit has got problems. may only be ice build up but replacing it gives you a warranty as peace of mind.
Dave
Cheers Dave.. I might just go for a new one, as you say for piece of mind.. I don’t really need extra worry at this time, so it would be one thing off my mind..
Thanks for your help with this.. I really do appreciate it.
Jon
electrofix wrote:well you have to look at the other picture. If the temp is as high as you claim then you may not have a safe freezer. So you have to balance the chance of getting food poisoning
Dave
That is a very good point.. Something which has been worrying me.. And thats why I concerned just biting the bullet and replacing it, rather than just faffing around with trying to fix it….
Just to add some ‘evidence’ to my measurments.. I tested my old (30+) fridge freezer in the garage using the same meter.. and the fridge was 0 (clearly a little too cold) and the freeezer -20.. So I know the meter is fairly accurate
electrofix wrote:thats odd beacuse if the fan is running i would expect even temp top to bottom
check the fan. or completly defrost it ( that can take 2 days with the door open )
Dave
Cheers.. That was one of my plans.. I have heard that it can get iced up.. I just need to find time when the freezer is empty and thats not easy in the current climate.
I heave heard that many pints of water will come out when its defrosted.. As its an integrated this is going to end up out of the back in the cupboard.. Is it best to take the freezer out when I do this to try and catch the water?
electrofix wrote:we need to make sure i am looking in the correct place
since you did not start this thread i may be looking up a different model. does your unit have the same model as above ?Dave
Yep. Exactly.. HM315FF
My symptoms now are
1. 7 Clicks/flashes when I open the door (30{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time)
2. Warm temperature in the Fridge (7-11 degrees)
3. Top ‘shelf’ of freezer gets warm (but does freeze, its almost like it cycles warm and cold)Hi Dave.. I am back again.. I have to be honest, I never did find the time to look at the Fridge.. But I have just discovered something which makes it more urgent (especially in the difficult times we are in where storing food has never been more important).
Last week I happened to be testing a temperature probe and thought I would stick it in the fridge just to see.. And to my surprise it was 8-9 degrees.. I monitored this over several days and found that it would go as low as 6-7.. ANd often as high as 11… But certainly not cold.
I can’t believe I never noticed this before.. Actually I did, as the fridge in my garage is much colder, but I never connected the dots.
And there is a final thing which could also be connected.. The top compartment of the freezer is not particularly cold. I often find bread in it stays “flexbile” and never really freezes sold.. Today I opened the drawer and found that everything was floppy.. Even though the drawers benieth it were rock sold.. I always assumed that this top part of the freezer was ment to be less cold, but I just noticed on the door that it says “Super Freeze” so I am not sure my assumption is correct.
I am not sure what do to now.. Whilst I am an engineer and more than able to fix this… Its integrated and the process of getting it out to see whats wrong is a nightmare.
I am tempted to just bite the bullet and buy a new one. .After all mine is 10 years old now….
My gut feel is to get something different… But looking at the reviews at Currys, the Hotpoint comes out better than most.. And I am against buying something more expensive (AEG, Bosch, etc) as I just dont’ think that the £ per year is much if any better.. I would rather pay £300 every 10 years to be honest.
Its also crossed my mind to go away from FF and go to a manual defrost.. Just because they are easier to maintain (buit a pain in the a*se as the ice builds up).
Another option is to just pay someone to fix it.
So I am greatful for any thoughts/advice you can give.
All the best
Jon
electrofix wrote:yes see what you mean about switch some of these manuals cross models
from what I can see
board as expected is in the middle
coming off the board are
plug W2 blue wire and white wire to heaters. see if you get a reading between wires
plug w6 freezer thermistor -15 degrees 72.5k -20 degrees 96.3k
plug w4 fridge thermistor
0 degrees 32.5k 5 degrees 25.3k 10 degrees 19.8k
Dave
Cheers Dave.. Thats really helpful.. When i get some time free I will check this out..
electrofix wrote:are temps correct in both units?
lamp switch is magnetic. get a magnet and run it round door frame and you should find it but fan will run with door open and I don’t know what else will happen
could be a defrost heater but that would need to be checked with a meter
Dave
I don’t believe its a magnetic switch.. I have a physical/mechanical switch on the top right of the inside and when I press it it acts like the door has been opened/closed.
I was thinking about jamming the switch CLOSED so the fridge never knows the door was opened and I won’t have a light.
How would I test the heater? Got a meter and am a Electronics engineer by trade.
electrofix wrote:think this is a fault code but cant find any reference to it
the clicking is nothing to worry about its just the relay that controls the lamp activating
Dave
I assumed a fault code.. funnily enough it did this early on its its life a couple of times and then settled down… Now its doing it almost every time I open the door.
I get 6 (not 5, not 7) flashes as well as the relay clicking.. The fact that its always 6 makes me thing its trying to tell me something, rather than a random series of flashes.
Not sure what I should do now.. I am 1/2 tempted to disable the switch on the door.. I will loose the light, but atleast it will run normally.
The other option I was thinking was to change the control board.. But I must admit, I am not even sure where its located within the fridge and hope its not at the back as I don’t want to take it out of its cupboard as its an integrated appliance. I am thinking that its between the Fridge and Freezer where the temperature control is, so might have a look there.;
Itsmeacalling wrote:When the fridge freezer motor is running and the fridge door is opened the internal light flashes about 6 times and a clicking noise is heard, the clicking noise keeps time with the flashing light. After, the light comes on, the motor stops and so do the fan/fans. Then after a while the motor stops and starts normally. All is working fine apart from this problem. I have changed the bulb, checked there are no loose connections on the control PCB, turned the unit off for 24hours and back on but still no good.
Any help please
Sorry to drag this up, but I have exactly the same issue.. Does anyone have any clues?
Jon
