[knichol]

Big shout out to Dave (and anyone else claiming proprietary rights over the intellectual property contained in this thread).

I don’t care who was responsible for tracking down the problem, fixing it and making it available. Fact is, it worked for me and I’m very grateful. Thank you!

Only thing I’d add is I wasn’t sure which board needed to be taken out and poked around with. I assumed it was the one next to the power cable inlet, lower left rear looking at the back: it’s not, it’s actually the one on the right held onto the back panel by two screws and a plastic retaining probe thingy. Take that out (it’s also stuck to the body with an adhesive pad), loosen the cable retainers along the lower rear body panel and then there’s a clip-and-slide panel to remove to gain access to the box. After that it’s just a case of gingerly loosening the cable connector clips (careful, the clips are easily broken as I found), removing the cables themselves, then carefully releasing the three plastic anchor clips to get the PCB out. After that, do what you need with D7.

I checked prices on Farnell: while the 100V/2A Schottkys are only about 17p there, I couldn’t order fewer than 20 and with postage that pushed the price up to over £12 … I found a pack of 5 for around £3.50 on Amazon. £3.50 to fix a waching machine? I’d say it’s a bargain even at that massive price.

My machine is the model named in the thread title, it’s only 18 months old and because it’s at a second property has only been used maybe a dozen times in that short life. Needless to say I won’t buy Beko again, but I’m very, very grateful that I hopefully won’t now have to replace this one until after a reasonable service life.

Dave: thanks again! (Did I say how grateful I am?!)

Best,

Keith

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