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That does seem to be the case. After resetting it, I managed to get a load perfectly dry. The next one was on for hours and hours without drying, and without heating up.
I have another hypothesis I might test, though. I suspect it could be tripping when on the (presumably hotter) cottons load, but not on the (presumably cooler) synthetics load.
I meant to mention that while I had the covers off the back I noticed a thin layer of fluff on the floor of the dryer. I vacuumed all of this up while I was cleaning it out, too. I don’t know if that’s normal or not.
Just an update.
I finally got around to looking at this. I didn’t perform a full strip down because I didn’t really have enough space (or confidence) to remove the drum completely.
I gave the vent hose a good vacuum/scrape out. I removed the heater and the ducting panel at the back. The air duct is fine. I also poked my arm into the duct where the fan is and could feel it was turning with the drive belt. And there were no blockages on the rear side of the fan. I also stuck the vacuum cleaner in and turned the belt round. The filter housing is clear, I’ve vacuumed quite a long way into the tube coming off the filter housing and the filter is in very good condition.
I reset the thermostat again and got one good load out of it, then it tripped on the next.
I’m guessing that if there is a blockage then it can only be between the filter housing and the fan itself, but I think the limits of my competency have been met here…
Thanks for the advice.
Re: White Knight 38AW: The back/sides don’t come off!
Just a quick update…
The bit of broken metal was a wafer-thin bit (like tin foil almost!) that goes inside the plastic bearing clip, which then clips onto the machine panel. I replaced the plastic bearing (the old one was worn and had a groove in it), having bent this bit of metal roughly back into shape. I also replaced one of the two felt bearing strips (although it may have been an idea to replace both).
The drum was turning fine when empty. Having put some clothes in it, it started making a horrible grinding noise. I disassembled again. I could see evidence that perhaps the fan blades were catching on the outer cover. After all that was said here, I think I must have bent the fan or its blades whilst trying to undertake the repair.
So, after blood, sweat and (nearly) tears I’ve thrown in the towel (no pun intended!). I’ve stuck it on eBay for spares or repairs at a super-low price and a replacement is arriving from AO.com in the morning.
I suspect I could’ve saved myself the best part of £14 had I heeded advice to scrap it sooner, but at least I can say I’ve had a go. 🙂 Thanks for your help, all.
Re: White Knight 38AW: The back/sides don’t come off!
Martin wrote:That damaged drum is going to rip your washing to shreds the first time you use it. My advice : Scrap it!
Just to be clear – it’s not the drum. It’s the rear ring inside which the drum sits. I can’t see any damage to the drum itself, and this bit would be covered up by the plastic rear bearing pad.
I think I may buy one replacement felt strip, fit it, re-fit the plastic bearing pad and see how it goes. I did mean to double-check the condition of the plastic bearing pad, but forgot to do so.
Re: White Knight 38AW: The back/sides don’t come off!
Alright, now here’s a quick update on my machine!! This is in the hope that someone can help or, at least, that it helps someone else in future.
I emailed the ukwhitegoods store for some assistance in selecting the correct parts. Kenneth has been unbelievably helpful, and has provided me with some exploded-parts diagrams.
It seems that the White Knight 38AW has (links go to products on site):
– Two felt seals (front and rear).
– Two felt strips (rear).
– Three plastic bearing pads (front).
– Either three or (in my case) one plastic bearing pad at the rear.In my case, it’s one of the felt strips that has come off and become rather mangled. Everything else seems fine.
Apart from ONE thing… there appears to be some damage to the “seat” of the drum, underneath where the rear plastic bearing pad should go (see image).
To my untrained eye, this doesn’t seem terminal – but I could understand why it might be. Does anyone have any thoughts?
Other challenges I’ve not resolved, which may make the job easier:
1) How to remove the fan blades from the motor spindle at the rear.
2) How to remove the timer switch on the front control panel, as this would give more space to lift the drum.Re: White Knight 38AW: The back/sides don’t come off!
Hi Matt.
I can’t see a “clip” on my blades. Maybe I’m just being silly. I’ll try to get a photo of it sometime, it could be different.
Your theory regarding putting the belt on seems exactly right, and it’s what I did. Slip the belt around the drum with the back open, re-assemble, turn onto side, remove panel and stretch over motor spindle.
I’d seen someone on YouTube use a long screwdriver as a lever and did something similar. It was reasonably easy to get it onto the end of the spindle by hand, but it needed to be further back and this is where levering it in with the screwdriver helped. Other than that, it was really just five minutes of pulling hard, pushing the machine in the opposite direction and swearing at it! Seemed to do the trick. 😛
Lawrence
Re: White Knight 38AW: The back/sides don’t come off!
Yes, that’s right. 3kg. 🙂 Will probably get a chance to take another look at it tonight.
Re: White Knight 38AW: The back/sides don’t come off!
I didn’t think so, but had read somewhere else that it was okay to bed the blades a bit! ❗
Will see how I get on with it using the space I will have. 🙂
Re: White Knight 38AW: The back/sides don’t come off!
Haha! Thanks, Martin. I’m going to order the part – will be sure to wear a thick sweater and gloves this time!
I figured it may be a case of removing the belt again via the bottom panel. In terms of lifting the drum, do you know of a way of removing the back panel more than the couple of inches that the fan seems to allow? Is it okay to bend the fan slightly?
Also, I didn’t remove the switches from the front last time and the barrel of the timer switch was very in the way. Would probably simplify things a bit if I didn’t skip removal of this! 🙂
