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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
cmperkins wrote:Just wanted to show my appreciation for everyone who’s contributed to this thread – I read all 46 pages of it!!
I had the usual clicking and flashing from the front panel, but fortunately no problems with actual cooling. If it wasn’t for this thread I would have been shelling out around £300 for two new boards.
Instead, it was just capacitors to replace. With hardly any soldering experience, I opted for the kit from broddersbaldrick (available on ebay) and sent the boards to him for repair.
His service was exceptional! Great communications, instructions and photos showing how to remove the boards, really quick turnaround (boards sent 4pm Tuesday, arrived back 12pm Thursday!), and a superb fix.
So thanks to UK Whitegoods for creating the forum, thanks to everyone who posted making it the top ranked page for a Google search on ‘Whirlpool fridge freezer clicking’ and very special thanks to broddersbaldrick for his contribution to the discussion and his excellent repair service!!
For anyone who’s just found their way here with the same problem….follow the advice you’ll find in this thread!
Cheers,
Chris.
We have a Conquest S20D RBB32 side-by-side which we took over from the previous owners of our home. Probably new in 2005. It recently developed two problems. The water dispenser started dispensing in spurts. Also, the capacitors (caps) and compressor relay in the rear printed circuit board (PCB) started chattering at irregular intervals, driving us and our dog to distraction.
I read many helpful posts in this splendid forum and then ordered the Rear PCB caps/relay kit from broddersbaldrick at £37.50 on ebay. The instructions and photos enclosed with the caps/relay are very clear and comprehensive. I had qualms about doing the unsoldering/soldering, though, as I’ve soldered only once before, and not on a PCB. I got the PCB out of the rear of the FF and used a soldering iron to release the two pins of each of the caps. The compressor relay however has eight pins and it took some effort and cursing to release them. Every time I tried to liquefy the solder with the soldering iron, it hardened before I could suck it up with a solder sucker. Releasing all eight pins was not easy. Success eventually. I soldered in the new caps and relay, taking care not to put solder where I shouldn’t and thus cause a short and blow the whole PCB ( a new board could cost up to £200). I examined all carefully with a magnifying glass to ensure there was no stray solder. At one stage though, my screwdriver slipped accidentally across a couple of tracks on the PCB. The tracks looked intact but when I put the PCB back in the rear of the FF and switched on, I found next morning that the freezer temperature on the front LED panel just showed — instead of -18 and the freezer wasn’t freezing and there was a pool on the floor from the thawed ice in the icemaker! So I took the PCB out again and put v small blobs of solder on the two tracks which I thought I may have damaged with the screwdriver. After re-assembly, hey presto, all seemed to be working, without relay chattering and water spurting. The freezer display returned to — however, but as per broddersbaldrick instructions this was just a temporary defrost. Later the display showed -18 and the freezer and icemaker froze properly. Four days have now elapsed without problem. My wife is delighted and my family is surprised (having asked me frequently: “Do you really know what you’re doing?”).
I can only echo C M Perkins’s praise:
Thanks to broddersbaldrick whose kit is excellent! Great communications, instructions and photos showing how to remove the board, really quick turnaround, and a superb fix.
Thanks to UK Whitegoods for creating the forum, thanks to everyone who posted making it the top ranked page for a Google search on ‘Whirlpool fridge freezer clicking’ and very special thanks to broddersbaldrick for his contribution to the discussion and his excellent repair kit and reassurance!!
