[Loftus]

Hi Dave, New X2 capacitor arrived yesterday evening. Couldn’t find the exact same brand (guess at 15 years old might not be made) – but same spec. Realised the new longer capacitors legs wouldn’t fit the PCB so used a short wire to stretch back one leg to the hole on the PCB.
Just soldered it and well… Thank you! All the digits seem brighter and the clock doesn’t crash when it hits 8pm.
Massively appreciate your help and time, not only saving some money but more importantly saving it going in the trash when such a small part was all that was needed to keep it going.

[Loftus]

OK, I’m with you. I’ve looked inside again and there is indeed an X2 rectangular shaped capacitor in there. I missed it last time looking only at the classic round ones. Testing it with the multimeter on Ohms setting showed no change in resistance so think it’s bad. It had quite a high resistance too just for info.
I’ve ordered a new one for £3 so will let you know how I get on once i’ve swapped them over.
Thank you for your help.

[Loftus]

Thank you. Sounds like you have a circuit schematic? Is that something I’d find online?
The board with the contacts for the buttons doesn’t have any obvious component labels etched on, so A can’t tell which is C1 and B think they’re all under the timer module that is solders on legs above it.
Unless you mean the board inside the timer module? I haven’t opened the timer module yet as it didn’t look obvious how to get in.

For reference this ebay listing shows what I’m looking at. I haven’t opened the black box, is that where C1 is or is it on that green board?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/24016706814

[Loftus]

Thanks Dave and Tubafan, Took a while to reply as I thought before I posted I had some pictures to hand but couldn’t find them so have managed to look inside again and get some numbers:
E-Nr number: HBN131251NB/01
FD number: 8712 00021

The number that seems most handy I found is the number on the control module made by Diehl 9000180170
A quick google search has found a second hand one for £19.99 from https://appliancespareparts.mysimplestore.com/

If you know of a reputable supplier of new ones that’d be handy too.

I had remebered there was a large capictor on the board, a 16v 470uF capicitor to be precise but checking it with a multimeter it seems to be progressively increasing in resistance which I believe indicates it’s probably OK.
Under the “screen” module there are various surface mount components so I think something under there or in the actual module has gone wrong
Scrfeen module for reference had the number LTG 0383KR-T 732 THAILAND written on it.
The module is soldered on so am thinking easier to replace the whole board than just that bit.

Thanks

[Loftus]

Obviously 20:08 would use THE most segments but 20:06 comes two minutes sooner so it never makes it to 20:08 and have to set the time to 20:10 or after otherwise it just resets again.

[Loftus]

Little update on this, When I removed the fan from the shaft of the motor the little lock nut was not very tight, almost loose.
Also on top of the motor there is a kind of fan, when I span this by hand it felt like the fan inside the duct was loose on the shaft. Hard to explain exactly but it felt like if I span and then quickly stopped the bit on the top of the motor the fan inside the duct kept rotating for moment longer. Like you could turn the motor shaft slightly before it engaged with the mass of the fan.
When I put everything back together (having thought I had diagnosed the motor) I obviously put the nut, holding the fan on, back on more tightly.
Now having just run a drying cycle there is no noise at all and this kind of backlash described above is gone, turning the motor shaft from above feels like everything is turning as one.
Not sure what the next steps are…. Guess wait till it makes some awful noises again and see what’s happened. But if you get the feeling described above it may only be that the nut holding the fan on needs tightening and no need for a new motor. Fortunately haven’t ordered one yet.
Still a lot of operations to get to that nut!

[Loftus]

Hello Dave, Thanks for your reply.
I have taken the duct out of the machine, unbolted the fan and removed the fan motor from the duct. With the motor in the machine the top bearing of the motor seemed tight with little slop. But with the motor out, and access to the shaft that the fan fits on to, it was clear there was lots of movement in the bottom bearing.
A few helpful tips for anyone else trying this….
The duct on the AEG L76685NWD does not come apart like this video shows it might
https://www.buyspares.co.uk/fan-motor-oh-sung-a02775602osm-2524c2-44w-230240v/product.pl?pid=5288681
The duct is a sealed unit with the fan trapped inside, it is glued together and undoing the bolts all around it’s perimeter will get you no where!
To release the duct undo the clip at the front where the metal duct connects to the rubber and blasts air into the drum
To do this easilly you will need to both A, remove the metal brace (flat panel) that goes across the front of the machine, (2 torx screws either side, 3 hex heads across the middle 2x7mm 1x8mm)
and B, Remove the front control panel. You neeed to this anyway to get the duct out the front of the machine later. To do this remove the soap drawer and the 2 x cross head stainless steel screws from the soap drawer area. Do this after removing the front brace.
Then label and remove the various wires and sensors connected to the duct
Next undo the pairs of hex bolts that hold the metal duct to the plastic drum. A small socket set with an extension bar is very helpul for this.
Carefully place the control panel to the side – don’t pull the wires.
The duct assembly with motor attached will now pass (it’s tight) under the central brace and out of the front of the machine
Undo the bolt on the shaft of the fan
Undo 3 bolts on the motor and the motor is finally free.
Fit new motor and reverse the process.
Found that the cheapest motor online is direct from AEG.

[Loftus]

Hi Electrofix, Realise It’s a bit old to be reviving this thread but have a similar issue on a AEG l76685nwd lavamat turbo washer dryer (approx 2016 vintage). I have removed the lid and traced the noise to the fan heater assembly duct thing. The odd thing is that at the start of the program it is very noisy. About 40 minutes in everything is silent. I’m assuming the build up of heat is changing things, the tolerance of fit of things, but which things? Is it that with heat the bearings in the motor stop rumbling, maybe heat expands them fractionally or is it that the fan changes its behavior when hot? Not sure whether I need a new motor or whether I need a new fan? or maybe there’s gunk in there and it ust needs a clean out? Help please. From looking online the ducted fan assembly is a complete unit including the fan for £70 https://www.partmaster.co.uk/air-duct-assembly/product.pl?pid=5247945&query=3810970PM
or the motor which is also £70 https://www.partmaster.co.uk/fan-motor-oh-sung-a02775602osm-2524c2-44w-230240v/product.pl?pid=5288681&query=3822172PM
Not keen to buy both if some experienced advice can tell me which is the one to get or if you can advise a way of diagnosing it a bit more accurately?
Thanks

[Loftus]

A bit old to be reviving this thread but have a similar issue on a AEG l76685nwd lavamat turbo washer dryer. I have removed the lid and traced the noise to the fan heater assembly duct thing. The odd thing is that at the start of the program it is very noisy. About 40 minutes in everything is silent. I’m assuming the build up of heat is changing things, the tolerance of fit of things, but which things? Is it that with heat the bearings in the motor stop rumbling, maybe heat expands them fractionally or is it that the fan changes its behavior when hot? Not sure whether I need a new motor or whether I need a new fan? Help please. From looking online the ducted fan assembly is a complete unit including the fan for £70 https://www.partmaster.co.uk/air-duct-assembly/product.pl?pid=5247945&query=3810970PM
or the motor which is also £70 https://www.partmaster.co.uk/fan-motor-oh-sung-a02775602osm-2524c2-44w-230240v/product.pl?pid=5288681&query=3822172PM
Not keen to buy both if some experienced advice can tell me which is the one to get or a way of diagnosing it a bit more accurately?
Thanks

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