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Hello, Chally
No, I’m afraid I decided to stop throwing good money after bad and shelled out for a new Fridge Freezer.
Silly to have chucked out what was probably a perfectly good fridge if only I could have diagnosed what needed replacing. Have been stung for call-outs for domestic appliances when they got beyond me before and ended up having to buy a new (microwave and washing machine) anyway so thought I’d cut out the expensive middle man this time.
Good luck with your one!Obviously that didn’t do the trick and about a week after posting the fridge was iced up again. I’ve stuck a timer on it, so it switches off a few hours each night and it’s been limping along like that. On the plus side, the freezer’s still working perfectly with the new fan, so I’m very happy about that.
Not being one to give up easily, I’m now wondering what to change next. The diagnostic test (pressing both top buttons for a few seconds) shows no errors. When I tested resistance of the defrost and drain heaters, both were correct. The thermal fuse and sensor tested ok too. If the fuse was at fault, or either heater was open circuit, I’d have expected a fault code to show. Actually, maybe not the heaters as they’re both connected to same plug.
In any case, I’m wondering which of the above to change next – or is there something else to try?
On fridge side, I’ve changed the evaporator cover to new type, the water bottle, the door seal and the fan (which is now frosted up again judging from the noise it’s making).
Is there a way of testing that the heaters are getting a feed? I’m wondering if it’s a control problem.
If not, can anyone point me in the direction a reasonably priced kit with all those components, so I can change them all out in one go?
Thanks!Ok, so I bought a new freezer fan, which arrived yesterday. Replaced it and so far, so good. Freezer cooled down much more quickly than it has recently and I had ice in my G+T for the first time in months. Fridge seems to be working too and it’s still dispensing water.
I’m wondering whether the failed fan in the freezer forced the compressor to run constantly so although the fridge evaporator fan would have switched off, the (bottom of the) fridge cooled too much, which is why the water bottle was freezing.
In any case, I’m hoping that’s finally fixed it.
Thanks for your helpful comments Dave – helped me stay determined and keep positive!Oh, I see.
I’m getting 1.1kOhms across red and black and 27kOhms across white and red and about same across white and black.Yes, I’m getting 1.1kOhms. Having pulled it apart, it’s labelled as 12VDC so have connected (red and black terminals) to supply and it’s not responding. I’m not sure whether it would without connecting the speed control (white) terminal, so not sure if I’ve proved it’s faulty.
So, not being one to give up…
I’ve put up with a fridge that kept things lukewarm for a few months and although it hasn’t kept food as cold as I’d like, I think the whole family’s immune system has probably benefited. Unfortunately, the freezer eventually failed too. So, I’ve defrosted (again) and removed the evaporator covers on fridge and freezer side. I discovered a tiny leak in the water bottle. Not sure if that caused the fridge problem in the first place, or if it’s a symptom of the whole thing icing up (which it had). In any case, I’ve replaced that with a new one.
The freezer is now showing a fan error. Before I buy a new one, so I can test it, please can anyone tell me what resistance I’m supposed to measure across it, and is it a 12V DC fan?
Hoping someone can help!I’ve bought the new evaporator cover and replaced the door seal, but no improvement. Think I’m going to completely defrost and give it one more go. Then give up and scrap it. Don’t want to go down the route of lots of expensive engineer visits that don’t solve it. Have had that with a few appliances.
So, have replaced the door seal. I think it’s sealing a little better, but after running ok for a week, the fridge has frosted up again and isn’t keeping cool. I’m thinking that my next step is to completely defrost it, remove the evaporator cover, dry it all thoroughly and put it back together. Am I being a bit hopeful and is there something else I should check?
Would calling an engineer out be throwing good money after bad, and is it time to give up and get a new one?
Grateful for any advice.
LaurenceThat makes sense. I’d wondered if there was a leak somewhere, but couldn’t find a potential culprit.
My wife thinks the door used to offer much more resistance to opening, so will try changing the seal next.
Two hungry children do spend a good amount of time looking for something to eat, which may also play a part in letting moisture in!Many thanks for the reply, Dave
Have looked around the seal, and it all looks intact. There are no obvious breaks in it and I can feel a little resistance on opening the door, so think it’s sealing ok.
The fridge must be around 13 years old by now, and I’ve never changed the gasket though. Could that really cause so much icing that quickly – and is there a way to test it? Feeling around it, it does seem to be tight up against the fridge. There isn’t a great deal of resistance to pulling it open, so I could replace it and see if that helps. Although without a good way of testing it, is that just throwing good money after bad?
