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mace
ParticipantGot a replacement element and fault is cleared, so looks like it was the heater element leaking to earth after all. Thanks 🙂
mace
Participantiadom wrote:With regard to the third connection on the pressure switch, it is used to trigger the overfill circuit. I did suspect this but couldn’t access the tech info yesterday. It doesn’t register a click when you blow into the switch though.
Yeah, was quite informative taking the old pressure switch apart. Turns out it was fine, but since I’d already bought a replacement I figured it wouldn’t hurt to have a nose. Unfortunately dismantling is really a one way process, these things are *well* clipped together. 🙂
mace
Participantiadom wrote:Heater resistance is not important, it is the insulation that is the cause of this problem. Testing with a meggar at 500v is what is needed, a basic multimeter is not enough. Your testing does point to a faulty heater though. 🙂
Nod – if I could justify a megger, I’d have one 🙂
Have ordered a heater element and will see how that gets on, ta.mace
ParticipantOk, 30 minute cold cycle completed without error. Also ran a full speed spin cycle afterwards which also completed fine.
mace
ParticipantManually filled drum, then ran a drain cycle, with heater element disconnected. Completed without error.
Will now run a 30 minute cycle, with heater element disconnected and ‘cold wash’ selected, and see how that gets on.mace
ParticipantI’ve checked the wiring harness and confirmed continuity.
As you mentioned heater element, I’ve just refilled the drum and checked the resistance on the heater element – I’m getting 41 Ohms. I thought it was somewhat lower when I checked the other day, but I could be mistaken. Will need to let it dry out to see if that changes.
I’ll refill it and run a drain cycle, see if it errors out on that. Will leave the heater element disconnected during that cycle.
mace
Participantelectrofix wrote:well my thought are have you got the correct switch for machine
if you post the long number inside the door and the part number of the switch you have someone who has hoover access may be good enough to check
if you are getting continuity through the old sw then it must be ok
have you checked wiring loom for pressure sw back to the board and checked for blockages in the pressure hose
Dave
Hi Dave,
Machine number is 3100582713430523.
Label on old switch reads:
MADE in P.R.C -385/13-A02 37650126
41035075 70/50 -340Replacement switch from UKWhitegoods has the following etched on to it:
0241/18-37650125-01
41035075-70/50-340Both also have “Type 760” moulded on the back.
I’ve checked thoroughly (including using an endoscope in the drum) for blockages in the pressure hose. It’s definitely OK.
I’ve not electrically checked the wiring loom back to the board yet, but visually it’s in good order.
My concern was more that the three wire connector doesn’t use terminal 12 at all, and as best I can tell visually, that’s the only terminal that could be used to determine that the drum is empty. Unless they are using the absence of voltage on 14 and 16 as an indication, which is a bit “how you’re doing” 🙂
I’ll check the loom out later, and confirm it’s OK.
Ta!
mace
Participantiadom wrote:Have you checked the wash heating element for low insulation. 😉
I’ve done a resistance test on it and it looked OK. No measurable leakage to ground. Didn’t do a high voltage test, as I don’t have the gear for that.
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