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Just checking, but that was the washing pump I just cleaned? (the fat cream bit with the heating element also in it) Just the manual also mentions a drain pump.
Sadly I suspect there will be no re-tightening of these clips – no matter I’ll pick up some jubillees if needed.
Wash pump / motor assembly removed, few fibres in the impeller but not enough to impede rotation (it span reasonably before I cleaned it). Could only see through tubes, but it looked in good order. Cleaned impeller/screw and re-attached to motor. Motor was warm – resistance (of coil I think) ~117 Ohms, manual says 78-100 measured from PCB. Capacitor was attached and I’m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure I measured the correct 2.
Could there be a blockage anywhere else, e.g. between the pump connector and the sump or is there another stage to check for blockages before I reassemble? Or can a competent Tech bench-test the motor/capacitor for me?Thanks, I will. To correct my earlier statement – programs do “complete” there is just no activity in the tub. No water out the rotors, that’s the main symptom – (and the E3 error code on diagnostic – but not on normal program). The clear tanky bit (air breaker?) is a little bit mucky, I woulda cleaned it but everything has those clips on that I don’t understand, like once-only jubilees. Guess I need to start tackling them? Is there a knack?
I will check that, but my PCB is down at the bottom (not in the door), in a neat housing with all the other stuff, there would be no need to put the wire anywhere near the door hinge.
Looking at the manual – other faults (with the washing pump or drain) can also be responsible for E3. My rotor arms aren’t spinning, even on the rinse programme (which I don’t think uses the heater) – just to exclude anything I can check myself before getting help, could that be fouled somehow?
If it helps, I think this is my board https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0mkAAOSwOntcwMrH/s-l1600.jpg
It turns out that wire is super long and much harder to check the continuity of than I imagined. All the joints at the back of the pcb look okay, I’m going to pore over the diagrams see if I can determine which points on the PCB should correspond with the thermistor’s, and get to them that way. Can anyone advise?
Failing that, perhaps I could take the PCB to a technician to check cheaply?
Great minds think alike. Thanks dave. It’s rather different from the one in the manual but I’ll see if I can figure it out.
It might be easier for me to test from the PCB, which is accessible nearby
https://ibb.co/DrFSZS2 can anyone direct me to the stat terminals?I have discovered that the bit on the black clip with the 2 stubby prongs is the turbidity sensor (which figures with the 2 prongs). So my search for the stat goes on!
which is 17.5k @15, 12k @20 degrees. So I’m guessing this is fine, leave that bit alone now. So I’m thinking that the 2-stubby prong bit with the 3 wires is likely the stat.
Thankyou Dave, I now remember that conductance is relative – and how to use my multimeter. The resistance across the tiny black proddy thing is 14300 Ohms, at T= say 15 degrees.
I didn’t fancy this guy’s 6-part odyssey https://eatingorangesandmakingids.blogspot.com/2015/10/kenwood-dishwasher-fun-kdw12st3a-part.html
for what it’s worth, the side view.
https://ibb.co/z7MFskS
