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Dom, many thanks I will have a go at that in the location you found it. I have cut foam out behind circuit board following the wire so will need to fill that as well. I will photograph and post here so anybody else with same problem may save a bit of time. I have used expanding foam before it certainly gets everywhere, and it will be solid next time you try to use it. I will tape the plastic back then drill a hole and squirt it in to fill the void.
Dom, is there any chance of a photo. When you say grill do you mean the black condenser on back of fridge. When I was tracing the wires from the circuit board they went down the side. Maybe I have got something wrong. When back home after Christmas I will look where you have found it. How did you locate it? Mine has no wires on the back at all. It would be brilliant if I could fix it.
K I have changed the fridge thermistor. You cannot follow the wiresas to the thermistor as they go between the side panel and plastic case and the side doesn’t come off as you said in post 8. If I knew exactly where the old thermistor was I would cut a hole in the metal case with a multitool. I stuck the new thermistor to the side of the fridge internal plastic case as far in as I could get. Any decent design would have put the thermistor inside the fridge compartment under a plastic cover so it could be replaced, the freezer one is internal.
Dom, I haven’t sorted it. I have changed everything except the little pot in the light. I checked both the thermistor resistances warming and cooling and they all seemed to behave correctly but I changed them anyway. I think I am resigned to having to buy a new fridge freezer. As a very temporary measure I have been running it with a time clock on the plug so I run it for a couple of hours then switch it off. Not ideal but stops the fridge freezing everything. I would not recommend trying to find the fridge air sensor or even trying to replace it. I can’t even find a way of fooling it into thinking it is cold enough to see if it will switch off.
I am still trying to fix this issue. I have fitted fridge air sensor as best I can. I cannont get to old one but have put replacement against plastic shell under the insulation. The only thing not replaced is the little circuit board in light unit. This seems just a dumb board to hold the potentiometer. Would it be possible for you to check resistance of a new one. I get 50 Ohm at Max setting and 47 kOhm at min setting. I presume this goes in series with the thermistor somewhere on the circuit board. I don’t know where to look next.
Having excavated some of the foam it looks as though the wiring which is all tape wrapped goes towards the side of the fridge, which is where the door light switch is. Do you know whether the metal side will come off as this may expose the fridge sensor?
I guess I need to start cutting into the insulation to try find the sensor. I have just put an enquiry on parts finder which can be ignored now you have responded.
I have bought both freezer sensor and air sensor. I have put the freezer sensor as near as possible to old sensor with a trailing lead out of freezer. Once I get to a stable temperature I disconnected the mains and measured resistance at circuit board of old sensor and on trailing lead of new sensor. They are within 10{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of each other and both change with raising or lowering temperature. I am assuming this is not the problem. The air temperature is more difficult to compare because I cant locate the sensor but the old one does have resistance wich varies as temperature varies. I am now thinking this could be a problem with the main circuit board. I don’t believe it is the contactor on the compressor because on initial power up the compressor runs for a few seconds then stops and after about 10 mins the compressor starts and operates well but won’t cut out. Do you have a circuit board attached are pictures of model label with serial number and main circuit board.
