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Dave, It didn’t matter what the wages were then or the prices, but people saved up for something instead of paying x{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} hp charge on everything, then they wonder why they have no money, its all spent before they have earned it.
My parents never lived on tick, my father was an electrician, my mother didn’t go out to work and when I started my apprenticeship which was 4 years (rather than two now) they got me to save up for my first made to measure suit and every suit afterwards was made to measure up till 20 years ago, now tailors on the high street are like unicorns.
I have never bought anything where I have had to pay interest, cash everytime, even all my cars, be they 2nd hand or new, apart from a mortgage which never lasted longer than 10 years. My salary was average, so it can be done. Trouble is people try and keep up with the Jones’s and live beyond their means, cannot wait and save, hence equity loans on their house to pay for their retirement.Things are not any more expensive, but companies charge what they think the market will bear, this was quite obvious when wives started to have full time jobs as soon as they had the kids and only taking maternity leave. I have heard Infant teachers say some of the kids are not potty trained and cannot use a knife and fork correctly but eat with their hands.
No, Britain is going down the tubes I am afraid.
Its good to discuss, you are obviously of the older generation like myself, perhaps not as much. We have gone off topic a bit , but who cares.All the best and thanks for trying to help, but not being an electrician but a Marine Engineer I haven’t done any electrical fault finding, despite running a 3MW 440v power generating system on a ship and an 18MW propulsion plant, we had Electrical Engineers that looked after everything electrical.
Regards,
DavidMost of our pans are non magnetic stainless with an alloy outer base so flat, all 30 years old so should be ok.
Our latest pan a Cuisinart is magnetic stainless ( must be cheap stainless if magnetic , but that range are not cheap compared to the rubbish teflon coated types or our main set) which the wife uses a lot which we will have to change. Don’t see the point in Teflon coated pans, that’s just poor cooking procedures.
I believe there are two types of ceramic top cookers, but will have to look into what’s available advantages and disadvantages.
The rings we have on the present are ideal, heat up quickly and ideal for simmering as well. I cannot see why they dropped those and went back to solid rings.
I think my Mothers first new cooker a Creda had solid rings , back in the early 1960’s, but the centres tended to crack. In those days you didn’t have much choice or much money.
In those days everything was made in England and said so on the label, now look at things, working life of 10 years perhaps and made in China to poor standards.
I don’t see how now that companies cannot find the staff , yet in the 50’s-late 70’s there were factories producing everything we need from imported raw materials and few women were working and yet nobody lived in debt unlike now with two working yet no industry to speak of.
The ring with the failed controller was Left Front, the one left working after I touched it was Right Rear. So Left Rear, Right Front are not working either now. Must be something stupid I have done. As I say electro is not my strong point.
Today I checked for continuity from the plate terminals to the terminal block were the feed comes in (power off of course). And both blacks seemed to be ok, Earth fine, but yellow and blue disapeared to the regulator or linked to other terminals on the ovens one of which I got a resistance. Later on I tested for live on the plate terminals got zero, then later realised there was a micro switch for the glass top, which prevents power to the plates if the glass is down. As I had removed the glass the micro switch shut power off.
Why they couldn’t have made it so you took the front off back of the glass and knobs then 4 screws and you have access to the controllers, rather than remove the rings disturbing the feeds through the grommets.
Some of the wires up the back didn’t look too good but could have been cooking stains/gasses from the ovens.We have decided that a new cooker is the order of the day, as this one is 30 years old (British made) so it doesn’t owe us anything. We need 20 out of the next one which will bring me to 90, by which I might not be here or in a home. Horrible thought.
We would like one with the same type of rings but they don’t make them any more, either a solid cast steel ( which tend to crack) and tend to be the cheaper unknown brands or these ceramic top type, which the wife didn’t really want, but they are the less of the two evils. Any colour as long as its black which will not look good in an all white kitchen. Woodpiles (of planed timber) come to mind.
Thanks for your help.
Mareng
Thanks for the reply. Its a stand alone twin oven with the radiant rings on the top.
I eventually got there, didn’t require the sides off but the ring carrier and the splash plate underneath.
Took the details of the controller and photo for wiring purposes when everything went back and noticed on of the black wires had fallen out the insulation sleeve. This would be where it would be bending all the time when the wife lifted ithe rings to clean.
None of the rings worked, then noticed that I had crossed two wires on the right hand rings.
This gave me one ring working. I checked the photos of the wiring and they all seemed correct after this, but still only one ring worked.
Perhaps I shouldn’t have touched it, at least I had 3 out of 4 rings, now I have 1 out of 4.
Yes it was a bit of a faff actually getting to the controllers. Could have been designed for easier access to failing part replacement.
Next job find why I lost two rings, electro is not my strong suit.I bit the bullet a arranged a call out.
Turns out that when I replaced the pcb in the facia plate ( fiddly thing it is requiring a bit of patience) I didn’t plug the two terminal blocks into the edge of the pcb, they were in the right place but 90° out, so not making contact:mad::mad:. But the dirty buttons cured the original problem. Will try to keep on top of the cleaning of those in future in-situ so I don’t need to disturb the pcb again.
These repair people don’t like you trying to do it yourself, yet it’s the only way you learn.
We were envisioning having to buy a new washing machine whose longevity is even less being chink scrap, instead of Eytie.
All’s well that ends well, well almost, just have to sort out the bubble in the lino that was under one of the feet.Pressure switch type 7640.
Can blow down pipe so assume clear.
Connection: 5v/gnd-earth/Out. Left to right
Meter set to test.
Out /5v(both terminals) -57.8 ohm
3rd terminal /out – 1000 ohm
4th terminal/out – 0.
Water valves:
3.7 Ohm each solenoid
Good flow from main and clear inlet filter.
No power to solenoids when selecting wash or rinse cycle, but pump operates each time as does door lock.My limited electro knowledge points to the PCB as a signal is not coming from that. Perhaps its the sooty component I noticed, :(.
How is my reasoning for a Marine Engineer?
Looks like a trip to EDS in Thatcham.Ok , thank you.
Would moving the machine about ie for decorating have affected anything, though I notice all wires are well clipped up.I will check the water level sensor pipework and put my meter across the terminals (power disconnected), from videos it seems 23 ohms is the figure to look for across the outside terminals.
I will check the drainpipe, but think thats ok as it was running fine since I last moved the machine, plus the drum is not full of water.Same machine, JLWM 1203, Installed 2008.
Code E31. Pump starts but doesn’t follow through on rest of cycle regardless of what program you turn it to.
Checked pump visually and filter and you can see the pump running.
Thought it was dirty buttons so had the front control panel off and cleaned buttons.
Also noticed a red square component on the PCB that looked a bit sooty, which I suspect is the cause, but not into electronic black magic.
I would like to repair the machine as it still sounds solid when it runs. Don’t need a new machine that you have to text, just something that washes clothes simply.
After boxing up the problem was still there.
Last time I checked which was recent the emersion heater was still working as it gave a bit of a hick-up previously so checked the glass door porthole for heat and it was ok.
No sign of excessive carbon underneath a sign of brush wear, but not actually checked the motor brushes, but the cycle never reached that point of turning the drum.Any help would be appreciated. Will be going down to the local appliance repair shop (one affiliated with you) next week as they are quite knowledgeable and understanding.
After several wash loads on Monday the washing machine worked without tripping the door catch, so I would assume it was that mm of dust and scale on the buttons. SWMBO is pleased, thats her toy.
Dave,
Just done a 30 minute delay wash set at 90° on my car towels adding a Calgon tablet and it worked ok. But we will wait and see if this continues. It could just have been the sticky button not going in far enough. Lets hope so. I will soon hear from the wife if it doesn’t work for her, then I will check for codes. Thank you for those and the emails.
I have been on the Mazda6Ownersclub website helping people today.I am getting the operational information 2nd hand from the wife, so the order of things she doesn’t know.
I cleaned the buttons of which the top edges protrude by about 1 mm and when she went to start it this morning the door locked straight away, whereas she said there has been a delay in the locking recently whilst she has been having the problems.When I said ‘no error codes’, I meant none visible to the user.
I would assume you would need the required software on a device to interrogate the others you are referring and know where to attach the leads.Later I will try the machine on a delay start to wash some of my car drying towels and see what happens. I will let you know if the problem persists.
It was quite interesting the article on Conditioners, just shows how powerfull advertising can be to the gullible women . So most of the things they want soft shouldn’t have conditioners used.
Clothes, particularly whites were much cleaner when washed in uprights like twintubs, or boiled in Persil soap powder rather than cold washes in detergent, which hardly melts the natural greases from the body. Persil is also good for removing tanning from the inside of the tea pot. Add two teaspoons to the tea pot and pour in boiling water. Best done if you are going away for a few days so gives it time to work, but will work overnight.
Also cover the kettle element in vinegar and leave for an hour or two, it just disolves the scale, rinse well and boil and discard the water.
Teaspoon of BiCarbonate of soda down sinks, then add vinegar will soften any build up that can then be rinsed away .
We dry everything outside 12 months of the year as wind is a good softener of clothes whilst drying. Not used the tumble dryer for 20 years, uses too much electricity.
When we lived in Florida I persuaded the wife to dry outside rather than use the dryer.
By the time the 2nd load had finished washing the first load was dry, regardless of materials, most of which was cotton in those temperatures and light reflective colours.I always wash woollen jumpers by hand and dry flat on a net in a frame.
There are no error codes, the timer say if its set to 55 minutes , goes back to that and flashes continuously. You can hear it release the electric door lock and that’s it.
