[meNZ]

OOB switch replacement.

OK – I’ll answer my own post.
The OOB switch completely failed. Access to replace it is quite simple, remove top panel, undo screw for panel underneath, slide out to the right then up, and you can access the switch.
I repaired it today (Saturday), F&P Parts closed, but it’s a standard spst normally closed (NC) microswitch you can get from any electrical parts store for a few dollars. (or use one with NO and NC terminals, and chop off the unneeded terminal with sidecutters.
Take care when replacing lower panel, wires and (water level sensor?) hose need to be pushed back in to slot on RH side, or the hose will be crushed when fitting top panel and cause other problems.

[meNZ]

Re: 603 problem – can’t get error codes

Problem solved. Start/Pause switch on controller board was faulty (intermittently stuck on). No part handy, so have temporarily replaced by removing and replacing with “Favourites” switch from the board.

[meNZ]

Re: GW609 fault code?

Penguin45 wrote:426221 RPS is the one that you want.

Penguin45.

Part number here (New Zealand) is 420296P.
That supersedes several earlier parts, and is apparently used on current models. It is the “Mk II” version.
Obvious design change is that the PCB conductors on each of the 3 “prongs” on the board are inset to the center of the prongs – rather than at the edges which led to the failure with the original as they were too close to the stator windings.
Cost ~ NZ$58 (retail).
Installed and working fine.

Oops…
Close inspection after reassembling, and there was some leakage from seal. Replaced bearings & seal, still working fine and hopefully might continue to do so for another few years.

[meNZ]

Re: GW609 fault code?

Penguin45 wrote:426221 RPS is the one that you want.

Penguin45.

Thanks for that. It’s not showing up by that number on local parts distributor’s site – but I’ll give them a call in the morning.

[meNZ]

Re: GW609 fault code?

Penguin45 wrote:*Probably*……… No way to be sure without the dedicated, only available to F+P engineers, test tool……..

Penguin45.

I have one here with the same problem code. On close inspection after removing the rotor position sensor board from the plastic clip, it looks like the varnish insulation on the board is very dodgy, and it’s arced / tracked across to the stator windings or cores, and the hall transistor (? -if that’s what it is) on the “c prong” seems to have fried. It doesn’t look like there’s been leakage from the shaft seals, so presumably condensation got to the insulation / corroded the board.
There’s several different rotor position sensors on F&P parts lookup, but the number marked on the board (425937A) doesn’t score a hit.
One of the likely looking parts leads me to a 420296P – ROTOR POS SENSOR MK2. If that’s it, then I hope that the “Mk2” version has better insulation varnish on it.

Perhaps someone else reading this has has experience with the same. I’m 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure the sensor is dead but I’m not sure that if this is right, then it may have also fried something on the main board. The stator windings look fine in the area where it’s arced across, but I’d clean it up and paint some epoxy resin over the windings in that area before reassembling.

I don’t like the machine much – IMO it’s always been rough on clothes, and very bad for lint. My wife would be happy if someone here would tell me to forget about fixing it.

[Author]

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