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Re: Bosch KGU3220GB – “E1” error message
gegsy wrote:Hi
You could try checking if NTC hasn’t come loose in fridge compartment.
You will find it behind a rectangular block.Quick flick off of cover will reveal NTC.
E1 is NTC out of tolerance in fridge compartment.
If the NTC isnt loose then more than likely you need to replace it.
P/No – 168766 -£14.70 +vat.Hello Greg,
I finally got the chance to look at this – the thermistor is floating on the end of its wire, so I guess it could have got knocked around during the move…
Out of interest, I managed to find my way into the control section at the top of the fridge, and identifed the 4 way PCB connector which connects to the 3 thermistors. Of the 3, two had resistance readings in the 30-40K range, and the other (cable with red identifying paint, connected between pins 2 & 4) had a reading of a few hundred ohms. I’m pretty sure this is the fridge thermistor – not only is it quite different from the other two, but the reading jumped around if I knocked the fridge thermistor.
The thermistor looks like a sealed unit – so to change it, do you cut off the old one and crimp or solder on the replacement?
Thanks again,
Mark
Re: Bosch KGU3220GB – “E1” error message
Hi Greg,
Many thanks for confirming the E1 refers to the thermister. I’ll have a look at this tonight – I know the cover you mean, as I spotted it the other night, hiding behind the salad tray. Glad also to hear that the NTC is replacable, I was fearing it might be fixed in the foam…
Thanks again – I’ll let you know how I go…
Mark
Re: Bosch KGU3220GB – “E1” error message
Hi again,
Sorry to follow up so soon, but I’ve some new information.
Last night, I noticed the display had stopped flashing, and said “10” degrees. I checked my thermometer inside, which said 1.5C or thereabouts. As I shut the door, the error code came back again. This has made me all the more certain that I’ve simply got a loose connector somewhere – when it said “10”, this suggests a high-resistance contact had been made (assume an NTC thermistor), and the vibration of the door moving made the bad contact go “high” again.
Now I’m sure I just need to access the PCB in the top front of the machine to check for dry joints and to reseat the connectors there. Please can someone give me a hint as to how to remove the top panel? Feel free to PM me if you prefer…
Cheers,
Mark
