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Unfortunately it’s still intermittent with the switch bridged out.
I’ve traced the wires back to the controller and I’ve tapped into them an inch back from the controller. One is direct to neutral, the other is a switched live. When it doesn’t fill, there is no voltage on the live. So unless there is some other logic input to the controller that is inhibiting it, it must be the controller. Repair isn’t on, it’s driven by an SMD device, not a relay. I can’t think of anything that would inhibit it other than the float switch and the pressure switch but without a cct that’s guesswork. The float switch is disconnected and the pressure switch is working correctly.
I see there are used controllers around for £30 or so but where do you stop, what’s next? I still need the expensive m/switch too. With a new basic Bosch at £299 it’s probably the time to change. The machine has been very good for 16 years, all I’ve done in that time is clean the syphon thingy a couple of times (I’m in one of the hardest water areas in the UK and everything gets scaled up). I think the water softener resin is probably exhausted too.
So unless I get any brilliant suggestions, out comes the credit card!No I don’t think so, it’s a miniature switch (V3 standard), sealed case, made by Cherry. Not worth the risk.
Normally pennies – but a spare one from Bosch to the right spec (low force) is £21 inc postage! Part no 165256. Amazon £10.
I think I’ve found it, not quite certain yet.
Checking the m/switches again, I found the NC contact of the flood prevention device (switch 2 in pic above) was measuring around 5 ohms. This supplies the inlet valve, interrupting it if the flood preventer activates. It works OK for the first fill but my guess is that it heats up and sticks and doesn’t work again until all cooled.
I removed the switch and bridged this connection (so now there is no flood preventer) and the machine ran a full cycle 🙂
It will have another run tmrw and if that works I will look for a new switch.That’s interesting but a bit confusing. When it fails to fill, the pump runs with the machine empty so it’s not the pressostat that starts the pump. In fact operating the pressostat in any stage of the cycle, whether it has filled itself or not, doesn’t seem to affect anything.
I wondered about a wire break at bottom of door. Not the easiest job to check them all, so many unmarked and of the same colour -lots of blues and whites – and they change colour at the plugs and sockets on the right side bottom before going to the switches and the inlet valve! Lost without a wiring diagram.
The two m/sw test OK on a meter and operate cleanly with a click. The connections are the same as this photo.
Sorry I should have said. Yes everything there stripped and cleaned, the corrugated pipe to the sump is clear, the pressostat operates and the microswitches seem good on test. However if I operate the pressostat m/switch during filling, it doesn’t stop the fill as I expected, it continues. I thought the pressostat was the primary level controller? If it isn’t, what is?
The pressostat does retract when machine empties, it isn’t sticking.
If I trigger the overfull/flood m/switch, it causes pump out as long as I hold it triggered.
Mike
