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Bingo, you got it!!!
There was a broken blue wire between heater and the control board.
Repaired the break and water is now heating up.Thank you Dave.
CJMylchreest wrote:Hi all,
Our BEKO dishwasher DIN15210 last night blew the fuse and trip switch mid cycle.
It still works, but does not heat up when running. I am suspecting thermostat or heater element, but would welcome any advice on what is most likely given what happened. I’m happy to replace either but don’t want to waste loads of time for what is a cheapish DW, and wonder if I should just buy new as I’ve heard people changing everything and it still not working!
Thanks in advance.
CJM.Did you manage to fix this? I have the same problem with the same dishwasher.
I know. It’s been frustrating.
They’ve accepted that I’ve now done all I’m going to do. Hopefully that’s the end of it.Thanks for your support with this.
OK I’ve been back and now all for hobs have had a new energy regulator fitted. I’m confident that each hob is functioning correctly. I can hear and feel the bi-metal switch click in and out during operation.
Tenant says that when they turn the knob down from, say 5 to 2, the hob is still hot. I’ve patiently tried to explain that electric hobs don’t cool down immediately.
Tenant still not happy but I just don’t see what else there is to do.I agree, but I need to be doing something.
I’ll try the stopwatch thing and try replacing the other two regulators to see if they are any better.If not, then don’t really know my next step.
electrofix wrote:well you can start with a resistance test
inside these units is a little heater wrapped around a bi metal strip. when you turn the control on the contact closes but the heater is energised so as it heats up it bends the strip until it switches both the ring and itself off. Heater cools and switches back on and the process continues
So the temperature of the hob is controlled entirely by the little heater inside the switch, yes?
You mention doing a resistance test, but surely not with the circuit energised. I’d have to switch it on for a few mins, listen for the bi-metalic click, then quickly isolate and disconnect the cables in order to do a resistance test?on the later ones live and neutral are normally P1 and P2. put you meter across and see if you can find the heater resistance. its going to be a fairly high reading as its a low power heater but it has to be under 30K as thats 2 watts and it has to be more than that. dont forget to turn knob to the on position
Dave
I just tried this on the two switches I removed. They are both giving a vey high resistance (mega ohms) so clearly failed.
I’m wondering if I get a couple more switches from a different supplier to see if that works better? Just to eliminate the question of whether the new switches are also faulty.
electrofix wrote:you can only test the switches on main so it would mean messing with mains wiring [/QUOUE]
If there are some specific tests to do, I’d be willing to do them. I’m an electrical engineer so feel I’m competent.
have had jobs before where the appliance is ok and the tenant is faulty
I’m trying to not be that kind of landlord but to be honest, I think you have hit the nail bang on the head!!
Thanks that’s really useful. I will go back and try, as you say, with a stopwatch.
But if it doesn’t operate in the manor you described above, what else could it be? There isn’t a control board for the cooker, it’s simply the energy regulator that enables the varying of temp. Is there anything else I should also be looking at?I still have the two switches that I removed from the cooker. Is there a test I can do on them to see if the are indeed faulty?
