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I had the same problem with the previous version of this model at 9 years old. As was said by others it was the sensor embedded in the foam. New one was under £10. Didn’t even bother trying to find the old one, which oddly is in the side panel. Put the new one in the back panel and used expanding foam. Worked s treat. What amazes me is the incompetence of the so called engineers.
Machineage,
Maybe they did. If it’s on the top of the freezer, I can see the air temperature in the freezer being similar to the refrigeration plate temperature in the fridge. If that’s the case it may be the identical sensor. Why move it from the back as on other models? I can also see using the freezer air temperature would lead to a less frequent on/off cycle for the compressor which may well extend its life. Terrible idea for maintainability though!
Machineage,
I’ve just fixed my Beko CDA565 which is 9 years old but had the same symptoms (too cold) and wiring issue as yours; the fridge sensor wasn’t where I expected it at the back and the wiring to it (in a blue outer cover) disappeared up and left rather than down and right.
Before this, I’d checked out the pot above the fridge temperature dial against the resistance stamped it, and swapped the PCB at the back of the unit for a used replacement from ebay (£10). Easy to do so worth a try, especially since both sensors were showing decreasing resistance with increasing temperature. I then had a look behind the inner freezer back panel and there was no significant icing up, so I guessed that sensor was OK. That meant that the fridge sensor resistance must have drifted.
The fridge on my unit has a cooling panel behind part of the inner back which ices and defrosts/drains as the unit goes on and off. I am assuming yours is the same.
I bought item 4394720285 from UK Whitegoods, and this is where my approach differed from yours. If this new sensor is designed to go on the back of a Beko (which is much colder than the side or top) it MUST give the same resistance at a lower temperature than the installed one. I tested this out by putting an extension wire on the new sensor, draping it over the top and into the fridge between fridge and seal. As expected if wedged against the side of the fridge it had no effect but if wedged against the back (the iced-up part) it worked and the unit switched on and off.
After this test, I just cut a hole in the insulation from the back, roughly halfway down on where the iced-up area is on the inside. I drilled an 8mm hole in the bottom of the plastic PCB container (angled towards the hole I’d made) then pushed a rod through the foam and into the hole. I cut the old sensor wires off the connector and, having pulled the new sensor wire through the hole, soldered those onto the connector wire tails I’d left. The new sensor had a flat on it. I didn’t bother making a holder. I just put a bit of spring wire across of the sensor and stuck into the foam to hold it in place. I then used some cut foam to fill the hole until I knew it worked, and when it did I filled the hole with I expanding foam. Take care though – on mine I came across a horizontal metal box section rail (maybe 7mm square) across the back under the foam which I guess has a cooling pipe in it. I made sure the sensor wasn’t next to this. There was plastic at the bottom of the hole I dug; I guess the metal cooling plate was under the plastic.
Worked for me, although on a different model to yours. Also, I’m no expert so no liability accepted blah blah.
Hope this helps.
Martyn
