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Re: No heat from White Knight CL43 tumble dryer
Apologies for doubting you guys……of course the red button was there and we now have heat 😆
In my defence, if there is one, I was restricted with the distance that I could actually pull the dryer out from under the worktop due to there being absolutely no spare length on the extract duct, so thanks to my kitchen fitter for that one. I therefore originally couldn’t see the red button. Thats my excuse anyway and I’m sticking to it.
I managed to turn the power off at the socket with the aid of the handle end of our garden brush. Believe me, its easier than isolating at the consumer unit, as you have to be acrobatic to get to mine, but thats another story. I unscrewed the top cover of the dryer and where the mains cable comes through the back and connects into a block, various cables then go off to wherever they are going to and a couple went off to another block about 4″ below. I felt around the back of the dryer and of course felt “the little red button” and as I say all is now well.
Mrs M1 is very pleased and also asked me to thank you guys. I’m not sure whether she’s more pleased that she can now dry her washing or that we’ve saved some pennies not having to call an engineer out.
Thanks very much once again. Much appreciated and I hope that this post might help someone else in the future with the same problem 😆
Re: No heat from White Knight CL43 tumble dryer
Thanks for your response Martin.
I’ve pulled the dryer out from under the worktop but I can’t see any button on the back panel anywhere. Does this model definately have a reset button on the back? Do I need to take the back panel off to access the reset button?
Look forward to any responses. Cheers
Re: Creda E420EK Electric oven – No heat from main oven
Thanks for your response. Is a new thermostat easy to fit?
It appears to consist of a probe in the oven itself which is secured behind the fan with two screws, (I’ve already tried removing this and it is quite easy). The probe then continues into a very thin length of cable that comes out of the side of the oven and winds its way up inside the side casing and then across the top and then this dissappears into a small square unit in front of the ‘rockers’ (this is probably not the right term for them but they are the brass coloured things that move up and down to make a contact when the on/off dial is rotated around).
Would this small square unit be supplied as part of the thermostat and how is it removed/fitted? I can’t see any other way of replacing just the probe and metal cable without replacing the small square unit as well but maybe I’m missing something.
I phoned a couple of people earlier and one was very perplexed when I explained the fault to him, the other seemed to think it may be a faulty micro switch, which opens and closes when the oven door opens and closes against it. Any possibility that it could be this?
I am currently working on a process of trial and error but, If I am unable to solve this one by either replacing the Thermostat or Door Micro Switch, or both, how would an Engineer who comes out to test the oven determine what the fault is?
