[Mrplumber]

Pcb arrived. It’s all up and running.
further learning of the old pcb I found a faulty diode was the cause. On the board it’s marked ds2 and sits next to the heat sink.
just in case it helps anyone

[Mrplumber]

Sweet mate thanks. Once I fit the new pcb I will learn and fix the old one and show what it was. Your help is appreciated.

[Mrplumber]

Ah your correct. I looked up transistor and thought it was it as looked similar. But googled it and your correct. It has the diode sign.
multimeter does have diode setting but would this be irrelevant now.
the transistor thing sounded right as maybe it wasn’t putting the correct voltage out.
could a diode still be suspect?

[Mrplumber]

Ah right. The numbers I stated were marked on the board.
on the transistor it has
k mbrf20
u 150cta
some symbol then 525

[Mrplumber]

Dso1 on the left and hs02 on the right. So I’m guessing it’s the dso1?

[Mrplumber]

If I unplug the main lead from the main small pcb. I don’t get 5 volts on the 5 volt pin.
I get 12volts on 12 volt terminals.

[Mrplumber]

It’s a shame there’s not that much information out there about them. As even once it’s fixed now I want to learn excatley how it all works lol

[Mrplumber]

I unplugged everything and tried it and still nothing.
If that board in the link you sent is the main one there’s only one connection from it.
and that’s the 12volt, 5 volt pin connection. That lead goes off down in to the fridge.
theres a large board that has all the sensor connection on, I checked all the pins there and they’re dead.

the inverter board has its own 240 volt connection and that’s live going in to it.

are you aware of any service manuals floating on the web that have a similar layout. Only information I can find is where it’s 1 pcb and inverter board or it’s all one board.

I’ve ordered that pcn in the link and should be here Wednesday.

[Mrplumber]

The 5 volt pin to earth it’s up and down can’t get a steady reading to the main earth terminal.
if I use the ground pin that’s next to the 5volt pin it seems to just rise up.
is it this board that then supplies power to the display and everything else. As 5v seems a bit low I thought. But I no nothing about fridge freezers.

it’s shocking that they don’t provide schematics.
I am gas safe And the boiler comes with the mi’s that get left with the owner and it shows everything.

suppose it’s a good way to keep your Samsung engineers busy. Out of interest is it only Samsung that don’t supply this info. Or is it all white goods makes that don’t provide the information.
as Samsung have put me off them a bit now.
thanks

[Mrplumber]

Thanks. Samsung technical lol what a joke they are. They wouldn’t give me the schematics of appliance staying health and safety! Then said either I pay for the engineer or they’ll give me 25{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} off a new fridge freezer as long as I buy it from there website.

im going to order that pcb and give it ago.
as assuming the inverter one is fine and the big board I assume gets power from this little board.
i checked the voltage out and there’s 5 terminals
2 ground
2 12v
1 5v

got around 12v on the 12 volts Pin’s and only mv’s on the 5 volt.
so hoping that’s the issue.

do you know anyplace I could get the service manual from
thanks

[Mrplumber]

Thanks for the response.
it has 4pcbs I’ve being trying to research it and find a service manual so I can understand it more but they seem pretty hidden from Samsung!

the inverter board doesn’t have the light on but does briefly flash on when I first turn power on, but then remains off.

am I right in thinking if the inverter board failed I’d still have lights and display just no compressor?

i’m trying to narrow it down to what board I replace
theres no signs of scorching or blown parts on pcbs.
i’ve checked
thank you

[Author]

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