neverwas

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  • in reply to: Creda T632CW – replacing sealant “gasket” #391017
    neverwas
    Participant

    Re: Creda T632CW – replacing sealant "gasket"

    This is a bodger’s tale posted just in case there are others like me who (a) can’t face a complete strip down and (b) have no pride in the job.

    The background is above – in short, a leak from the bottom of the condenser chamber at the rear where the sealant had failed.

    I established that:

    a. I could reach the place where it was leaking from the front – by lying flat on the floor in front;

    b. a short sealant gun would fit in and allow sealant to be applied to the gap if the sealant cartridge was less than half full. (A longer gun/fuller cartridge made it impossible to tilt it to the right angle)

    c. while I couldn’t “tool” the sealant properly a Mk 1 wet finger could be applied.

    So I made up a cardboard box to line the condenser housing and protect it from sealant and went to work with Everbuild Stixall (mainly because I had a half-used cartridge left over from another job). I applied 2 generous layers, leaving the first to dry fully. The result weren’t pretty. And I was only able to reach the bottom of the deal. But it did the job. Nearly 3 years later it’s still not leaking.

    I appreciate that I was probably lucky and that there’s lots of reasons not to recommend such a bodge. But it’s put off the day ´er indoors can insist on buying a Miele 🙂

    in reply to: Creda T632CW – replacing sealant “gasket” #391016
    neverwas
    Participant

    Re: Creda T632CW – replacing sealant "gasket"

    Thanks.

    I’ll try a bodge and report back i.d.c. (provided I survive the possible flood 😥 )

    neverwas
    Participant

    Re: Replacing jockey wheel on Creda T632CW condensing tumble

    Many thanks for the many replies.

    I am not at all offended by doubts about my abilities. On the contrary, I’d much rather not be encouraged to take on too much.
    FWIW I’d not claim to be particularly handy and am certainly not very knowledgeable. But with clear instructions I can usually manage. For example I have replaced belts on older/simpler dryers and on washers; rebuilt car engines (but ending up with very oily Haynes manuals); rewired houses and tested the circuits using earth loop and insulation testers (but with very frequent checks with the IEE’s On-Site Guide); and replaced TV line transformers, CRT sockets etc (after very carefully discharging the capacitors). On the other hand, you won’t get me on a roof without scaffolding for any money and I’m crap at anything involving bricks.

    Anyway, I’m sorted on the brackets for now thanks. I went back to the brackets this morning armed with your several comments, a brighter work light and 2 pairs of reading glasses (one on top of t’other!) Saw that one of the arms was a bit bent and burred at one corner. A few strokes with a rat-tailed file and it came free at last. Not the kind of thing a pro can fart about with I know. And I am resigned to losing some skin when refitting the new brackets and the spring.

    As regards the belt, there was an awful lot of black crumb-like material inside the machine which I thought could only have come from the belt. The belt is also slightly frayed at the edges. It simply ain’t worth getting someone in to replace the belt on such an old/cheap machine: we live in London where service engineers’ charges tend to be high – understandably ‘cos they must spend so much time stuck in traffic. So it’ll be me or the WEEE centre. On that basis – and given it looks to me to be a bit of a pig of a job – any and all pointers would be very welcome. If only (what seems to be crucial from reading round this forum and elsewhere) whether the belts on these machines are best tackled from the back or the front?

    neverwas
    Participant

    Re: Replacing jockey wheel on Creda T632CW condensing tumble

    Thanks for that – but I have still failed to manage to disengage the arms; and my neighbour (who is younger/stronger/fitter) has also failed. The arms seem to be machined/stamped so they simply won’t disengage with the drive shaft for the belt in place. It’s close but (as my neighbour said) “they simply won’t go without shafting the drive shaft”.

    I am therefore resigned to a more substantial disassembly. And so think I might as well replace the belt as well while I’m about it. (I do appreciate the recommendation to replace both jockey wheels and will do so.) I assume what I need to order is one of http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Tumble+D … +Belt.html

    But – please! – do I fit it by removing the front panel or the back?

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