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Thanks again, Dave. In view of what you say, I think I will scrap the pesky thing! But I’ll remove the potentially useful components first and retain them.
The change in spec is certainly unhelpful when trying to diagnose and repair.
Thank you, Dave. I have re-examined the unit. Yes, with power on there is a slight clicking noise, presumably the overload cut-out.
So, does this mean that the compressor itself must be no good and the FF therefore a scrapper? Alternatively, would any other component be at fault and, if replaced, likely to restore normal operation?
(I find the Beko spares listings confusing as often alternative parts (such as cut-out, relay) for a ‘CDA539FW’ are listed and it is not necessarily clear which is correct – and some of the compressor ancillaries are no longer available.)
What does the timer module do? Mine has the motor-driven variety.
If I do scrap it, there might be some re-usable components going begging!
Dave: With respect, yet again you haven’t read my post. The light comes on and the thermostat is working, but neither the fan nor the compressor starts and runs at all. So, the compressor cannot get warm! What is stopping both the fan and the compressor from cutting in? Is there any sensor or PCB that I don’t know of that prevents start-up – and can I rig a temporary by-pass to get things running? If not, then how do I test the compressor, relay and capacitor? (The resistance readings on the compressor seem to be normal.) Is the cut-out on the compressor visible and testable? If the compressor is no good, why is the fan also inoperative?
I have now replaced the thermostat with a new one but neither fan nor compressor is working. I still wish to ascertain which component(s) are defective and should much appreciate guidance as to how to test the compressor, relay etc. Surely such tests are fundamental and much the same for any fridge/freezer? Is there some aspect of this model that requires special attention?
Re: Beko CDA539FW appears dead
As previously stated, the thermostat appears to be OK after testing for continuity, but I’m not entirely sure about its connections and cannot find any circuit diagram. How should I by-pass it to be sure?
I have disconnected the compressor from relay etc and read resistances across the 3 terminals; the low and middle readings add up to about the same as the high reading, suggesting windings are OK. Is the relay or capacitor faulty, and can they be tested? Can I by-pass these to at least kick the compressor into action briefly?
