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Re: Creda Tumble dryer T601cw
Thanks
All done.
I found a little fluff inside so I removed it!!!!
Cheers.
(Make sure your consumer unit (fuse box) for the house has an RCD. If not get one fitted).Re: Creda Tumble dryer T601cw
Hi Ratdog
Here you go.
Small cover off the back and take of the cir clip and washer from the drum spindle.
Remove top, 2 screws at the back and pull back to disengage clips at the front.
L/H and R/H sides off, 3 screws at the back and one screw each side at the base. The sides then clip off the clips at the front by being pulled backward.
Front off, a screw each side at the front of the upper side supports and three screws at the base.
Front comes off with the drum. Withdraw the drum from the front and prop up the front by opening the door as the wiring to the front has not been disconnected.
Split the fan chamber inside, four clips, go easy so you don’t break them.
Remove the air guide fron the front of the fan.
Slide the belt uder the fan and under the fan spindle cearfully.
Air guid and fan chamber top cover clip back together.
Drum back in with belt over and engage spindle in bearing at the back,
Put it all back together again.
Note the supports for the front of the drum at the front and make sure these engadge the front of the drum and also the condenser housing clips into the front. Front on, sides on, top on. Washer and circlip and small cover at the back.
Don’t force anything, get help to put the front on and make sure everything is in place as the front goes on.
Good luck.Re: Hoover AL130
Yes Grandmaster. Due to your posts and that of Martin I have worked out a cost effective solution. I did notice the posts go a bit dead when the old logic circuit came about. It is due to your self and Martin that I resolved the last fault and I thank you for that and I respect your wisdom oh Grandmaster. (You can now call me Grasshopper). Washing machine repair is a new experience for me but I have learnt a lot. The advice of my own grandmaster was “get a cheap one and throw it every two years”.
The beast is now Pistachio green and I have not fitted the UV lamps as I suddenly thought it may deteriorate the tub. The blue cathodes are OK but I was expecting a little more light into the drum but it does look like its floating.
Searching for a trigger for the voice (3 different triggers).helo_75 wrote:have you actually checked the pressure chamber for blockages?
Well no not at the time but I did jet wash the inside of the tub when I fitted the bearings. So I took it off and cleaned it out but it was OK. Then to UKWG to post a message. Back to the machine and turned it on for a test run. Back to UKWG and search for similar problems and read a few posts through. Back to kitchen and hey presto the machine now lets in water, and doesn’t stop with the pressure chamber off and run out of machine and onto floor, said water flows under kitchen cabinets and into the hall. The machine open no lid or back on. So I did have a flood. A good flood. I deserve it really, so you can have the last laugh on me. Got it up before she came home and left the mop and bucket in the kitchen. First thing she said was “you’ve had a flood haven’t you”
Re: Hoover AL130
Martin wrote:
ratdogfink wrote:
What changes the speed of the motor? As in the motor works fine but will not do the high speed spin.Relays 2 & 3 control the tumble direction. Relay 4 is the high speed spin.
Many many thanks Martin. This is the stuff. Knowledge is power and you have the power. So went to Maplin and bought part number N28AW 24vdc 12A 240V SPDT relay coil resistance 1500 Ω £1.31. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2512
Soldered that on the board relay 4 position just as you said and now all works fine. Total cost of PCB repair £1.31. Therefore relay 4 contact had burnt out as coil still reads 1460 Ω and operates with coil supply but is bad contact. The machine now works, the wife saying “when you said you would fix it I thought you meant the fact it did not work not the noisy bearings”
I thank all who have helped me as all comments have been used to form conclusions to resolve various problems any help is good help.
Synchronous motor on timer was fine but the gearing had stripped a couple of gears so PENGUIN 45 was right!!!
Heater meggered fine at 500V
In all, a new timer and relay on PCB. Now I am spraying it today, fitting cold cathode tubes in blue and UV strobe to light the drum on spin. LED’s behind glass panel on the front to strobe during spin. Speaker system so it talks when turned on, turns off, and door open switch (voice of GIR from Invader Zim at random ).THANKS EVERYONE.
Specialist01269 wrote:Re – your last but 1 post regarding Triacs switching: I really don’t need a lesson in how this stuff works, I have been in the Electrical / Electronics industry for the last 35 years both as an Engineer & as a lecturer in Electrical / Electronic Fault finding / Servicing.
I was answering your question from a previous post and airing my thoughts for comment, not inviting ridicule. Lecturing does seem to be your best point. If you can’t do it, teach it. Everyone is an expert at some things no one is an expert at everything. No need for it.
Re: Hoover AL130
What changes the speed of the motor? As in the motor works fine but will not do the high speed spin.
Re: Hoover AL130
Thanks for the explanation. Switched N! I found that 230V to both valve coils but no water coming in, thinking that the L was switched. Both coils have 230V to them, through the coil and back. In this state using a voltmeter on the in and out side of the valve coil will give no difference in potential until the neutral is switched and valve opens. There will be 230V in and 230V out. No volt reading but still live. Testing from either side of the coil when the neutral is not switched to earth will give a 230V reading. When the triac closes the neutral, current flows and the coil opens but with triac in open circuit 230v goes to both coils and there is no volt difference across the coil contacts.
The machine doesn’t have a rinse hold option. I am thinking that the three relays on the PCB control motor direction and speed. 2 for direction and one for speed. The one controlling speed could have gone west. The machine would then drain but not spin. What do you think?Re: Hoover AL130
Yes I took it out and cleaned it. I think this is what may have been stopping the valves. It went through a cycle that time but stopped after the wash cycle and just before the rise cycle. Water got warm. It did the wash cycle drained for about a minute and a half then just stopped. I take it it was about to spin. Is it a PCB fault? Does anyone have a circuit drawing?
Re: Hoover AL130
Just a quickie.
Have not meggaed the heater, I took the megga back to work as I don’t like it round the house (kids). I will try to get it! Continuity seems OK. The heater should not be in circuit when draining or entering a spin (by assumption not knowledge ). I tested continuity of the motor, new brushes went in about a year ago. It is a series wound with 6 wires. I take it one pair for forward and reveres coils and armature coil and two wires for speed control. I forget the results but were not short or open. I can check again if I had some sort of value. Don’t think its the motor as it works both ways with no sparks!
Still no spin and now on water coming in. Drain clear, drain pump clean. Goes through the wash cycle abut stops just before rise or spin. (pressure switch?????)Re: Hoover AL130
Many thanks for all the replies. I have two spare valves and both of these have been used to no avail, one valve I know is good.
I have now taken out the drain pump and cleaned all hoses and pipes and the drain pump. I have checked the water valves, both sides of the coil to earth and getting 230 V (Uo nominal voltage) also water to each. Live to neutral will not show up much and checked connected to the wiring or you wouldn’t get 230!. This is on both hot and cold water vales. The only way this must work is if both valves get voltage to them and the switching is done on the return side of the wiring. Thus power to inlet valves but no current to make them open unless switched. Machine still does not enter spin cycle and after I cleaned the drain pump now it will not fill with water. So this is what I think:-
The pressure switch is karfut, doesn’t let water in and stops machine from spinning as it thinks it’s full of water!! In fact now I typed it and read it back is seems more logical. Pressure switch not switching inlet vales and stopping spin as it thinks the machine is full of water even when it is completely drained and drain pump working. Can this happen? I have tested the pressure switch and have four contacts on the pressure switch. Only 3 contacts are wired. The three wired contacts are all normally open. There are two contacts close together and one separate. The two close together, red wire and yellow wire only short together after the switch has clicked and with MORE pressure than needed to make it click. The blue wire goes to the further away contact and connects to both the other two contacts with pressure, connecting to the red wire with again more pressure than needed to operate the switch. Also the yellow wire is in fact two wires together piggy backed by contacts.
Questions on the pressure switch.
Should all 3 contacts be normally open? Should all 3 contacts short with pressure applied? Should 2 contacts only short with MORE pressure than that to operate the switch? Can the pressure switch operate the spin cycle or will it not allow spin if there is water in the drum?
Thanks again for the help.
Also live testing done with prooved earth via 10ma fast trip RCD, touch voltage 25V (the most you can get is 10ma and 25 V in 200ms.Re: Hoover AL130
Many thanks
The bearing change went rather smoothly if not time consuming. The problem was there before the bearing change! I was only told about it after I had ordered the bearings. It does not seem to want to enter a spin cycle. It drains fine. I think it may do a spin before entering rinse and sometimes through a rinse. If this is so then that is when it stops, at the spin just before rinse. It worked twice after the timer went in, with a spin. Now it is back to before the bearing change. It was used on program 4 as the others weren’t working before the bearing change (I am now informed). Prog 4 now stops just before rinse as all progs do.
No one should EVER DO LIVE TESTING. I have the correct tools, I am an elecrician and an engineering technician. I am protected with various devices and test circuits most the day long. NEVER DO LIVE TESTING if you are not qualified and expirienced.
Continuity accross the valves is about 3k. Heater is fine as it gets hot, all other wiring fine. All electrical connections seem good.
So has anyone got a wiring diagram or circuit board diagram? Which relay starts the spin cycle? Why do the inlet valves have Uo but remain closed? What happens if I take the tube off the pressure switch?Re: Hoover AL130
Also when it stops there is 230V (Uo) to supply to both the hot and cold water inlet valves. It stops working just before a rise cycle. If I turn the machine off for a bit sometimes it starts but sometimes not. If it does start it goes into the rinse cycle but then stops again. It is now stopped in a rinse cycle and 230 V to both inlet valves. Why if both valves are powered does it not fill with water?
Re: Hoover AL130
As the machine bearing were gone. I changed the bearings. When testing the machine my wife told me it only worked on one or two programs. I posted this and was told the timer needs replacing. The time was then replaced and still the fault exists so it is not the timer. Rather than used old threads I have started a new one, no point in using an old thread that says, replace the timer or how do I take the drum out. Bearing change wil not effect the program cycle. The cold water valve is fine and continuity exists in the wiring of the cold water valve. Insulation resistance has been tested and this is also good across the majority of the loom. The cold water valve coil has been tested and is good, also swopped out with another one. Bearings have been changed, timer changed so what next. What about relays the board? The circuit board it’s self, pressure switch???
Penguin45 wrote:
It’ll be the timer at fault. These machines use a motorised selector switch or “timer” to tell the computer what to do. Random running round and failure to complete are classic problems. P/no 91201337, spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk will get you one promptly.Penguin45.
