[ricointheuk]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Fieldsy wrote:hmm?? less than a couple of hours and flashing — back 🙁 Rico, u mind posting what extra caps u got (product numbers, and where u put them).Also still intrigued how u got 4 to fit in place of the old ones.

thanks
Fieldsy.

Hi again 🙂

**I’M NOT QUALIFIED – THIS IS JUST WHAT I DID – IT MAY NOT BE SAFE – OR MAY DAMAGED OTHER COMPONENTS**

I put both these in the C1 position on my board as described on one of the earlier posts.

The extra caps were:

RS 1908450 1uF 630V 27.9mm (I had to bend/step the tails a little to reach holes in PCB)

RS 1908573 470nF 1kv 27.9mm (soldered this one to the back of the PCB)

[ricointheuk]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Fieldsy wrote:Great to hear you got your sorted Rico. How did you manage to get all 4 caps in place, mine were too wide and wouldn’t fit, so only changed outer ones. The ordered caps, were wider than the “old blue ones” I was replacing. Anyway switched back on, and no — and no warning triangle. Freezer went straight to -18, as it only took me about 15-20mins to solder caps in. Water and ice both working fine. Will give it a couple of days to see how things work out.

BIG THANKS!!!!! to everyone who has supplied info on this subject, hopfully this has saved me a major repair bill.

Would you fecking believe it now the tumble dryers packed in……!!!! already ordered parts 😉 ……………..and the tele went 3 weeks ago!!

Talk about things happen in threes !!!!

cheers Fieldsy

Hi Fieldsy 🙂

I soldered 3 in the front of the PCB and one on the rear. Not the tidiest job but works fine.

If any one is interested I filmed the process. If you are just say and I will post on YouTube.

Thanks
Richard

[ricointheuk]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Ok soldering complete and I’m pleased to say that it appears to have worked. 🙂

I changed the four capacitors in a row and reassembled(rear board). Nothing seemed to happen for a while apart from releasing lots of water into the evaporator tray. The — instead of -18 had corrected itself back to -18. Then I heard some ice drop 🙂 I have missed the ice. Next I put a thermometer into the fridge to see if the temp was reducing down to 4c It was! Super!

Then the clicking started again 🙁 everything appeared to still be working but it was back to repeated clicks for about 20secs every 5 mins. It was doing this for a year prior to the ice maker dying and then shortly followed by the fridge and freezer.

I had also ordered the new C1 capacitor and the extra capacitor that Ozzy1 had discussed on page 8 of this topic. So I soldered these in also. Turned it all back on and same process of nothing appearing to happen apart from dumping water into the evaporator tray again.

Went out to lunch……..

Came back and fridge / freezer temps at correct levels and currently no clicking 🙂 fingers crossed that’s it 🙂

Thanks to all that have helped and good luck to future people visiting this topic. 🙂

Thanks
Richard

[ricointheuk]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Fieldsy wrote:Hi, from a previous post, these are the ones I’ve ordered for the 4 main caps @220nf

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear … &x=21&y=10

Part number 190-8551

Hi Fieldsy 🙂 thank you for the reply.

This corresponds with what I have picked at RS. I will get them ordered and see how I get on.

Thanks
Richard

[ricointheuk]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

cockney steve wrote:http://rswww.com

full online catalogue……be aware that this is a “trade” supplier, as such you will find there are minimum pack-quantities applicable,

RS depots DO have trade-counters,if you take the trouble to look up the part-numbers they will oblige with a cash “courtesy sale” without the necessity to open a trade account.

also to be noted…”plastic” can be of several different qualities, as long as the operating voltage is at least that specified (can be higher,but then size may become an issue) the VALUE MUST BE CORRECT (microfarads/pf/nf)

Quality/price is probably only important to manufacturers where large quantities are involved.

Hi Steve and thanks for the reply.

I have an ac with RS. I don’t have a RS counter near me.

As you have pointed out it is important to get the correct values for the farads. I have read some literature on capacitors in order to help me understand, which one to order. I am not confident that I have understood completely as there are different ways of writing the same farad values. size / pitch / voltage I’m fine with. I was hoping if someone was au fait with capacitors or had already ordered them, that they may have or easily get the RS codes for me, therefore simplifying the whole process for me.

I have picked the ones I believe are correct on RS and will cross reference with any help received.

As ever, if someone is kind enough to help with the codes, I obviously take the advice at my own risk etc.

Thanks
Richard

[ricointheuk]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down

kanguru007 wrote:Hi. Thank you all for your help.

Yes, the capacitors are bad! I wonder where Whirlpool manages to get capacitors of this kind of ‘quality’, I wouldn’t be able to source them if I had to.

I replaced all eight on the back board and my fridge is working like new again.

Later I will replace the ones on the front board, I have to buy them beforehand.

Everyone with problems should replace all capacitors without a second thought. The new capacitors will most likely never fail and the fridge will be better than new.
If you can’t do yourself just take the board to an electronics/tv repair shop. They must do it as you wait because food inside the fridge will start melting in a couple of hours melting. Put the temperatures in the lowest settings one day before you remove the board.

Here’s a list of all the capacitors in my boards:

back board (changing these fixed my problems):

plastic mains caps: 250V/275V RMS (AC) or higher if they fit:
4x 220nF
3x 100nF
1x 330nF
1x 1000nF

electrolitic (don’t reverse polarity)
6.8V or higher:
1x 1000uF

front board (these are also bad but I haven’t replace them yet):

plastic mains caps: 250V, 275V RMS (AC) or higher if they fit:
3x 470nF
1x 680nF
1x 330nF
4x 3uF

electrolitic (don’t reverse polarity)
6.8V or higher:
1x 1000uF

Any chance of giving the RS numbers for these, please 🙂

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