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Re: F&P GW608 No Power – my wife is going to kill me!
Marty,
you did well to attempt a washing machine repair in the first place, only a handful of weekend warriors would do that so be proud my son.
Forgetting to replace the rubber seal on the inlet was a mistake but all of us die-hard do-it yourselfers have to learn from our errors.
If you have drowned the electronics all is not lost!!
My friend had a machine similar to yours and we scrounged a FREE working controller from a machine that somebody put out in a council clean up. Ebay can be a source of working, affordable used parts for whitegoods too.
Even if your good lady won’t wait for you to scrounge cheap spare parts look at it this way……..
If you had called in a service person in the first place (a competent one) you would have a working washer and you would be at least $200 worse off.
If your service person was a cowboy you would be even worse off and bear in mind that gw608 washer isn’t really valuable.
It’s probably cheaper to replace than call in a service person, Perhaps buy a working identical F&P and then you have a source of spares for your next repair job……..
RobRe: Fridge on strike
Dales-Electronic wrote:OK lets try it this way. The wire that we went to number 6 on the Ranco goes to number 3 on the Danfoss and the one that went to the number 4 on the Ranco goes on the number 4 on the Danfoss.
IT’S RUNNING!!!!!!!! YAY 😀
Many thanks 😉
Re: Fridge on strike
Yes a wiring diagram would have helped perhaps if the manufacturer had stuck one on my fridge but sadly they didn’t.
No I don’t have a test meter and I can’t use one anyway so I’ll start hunting for a Ranco thermostat now, its my only viable option.
Thankyou to all who have responded 😉
CheersRe: Fridge on strike
Dales-Electronic wrote:Power in on 3 power out to compressor on 4
Hi Dales,
Thanks for this but I am no technician and only have a vague idea of what the wires in this fridge actually do so “power in power out” does not tell me what colour wires you are referring to, I’d be guessing 😯 ………….
To recap-
A four core cord with blue, brown, white and green/yellow earth wires services the thermostat and lamp.
With the Ranco (dud) thermostat fitted-
Brown attaches to thermostat connector 6 then a second brown wire goes from 6 to the lamp.
Blue attaches to the lamp via the door switch.
Green/yellow Earth attaches to thermostat casing.
White attaches to thermostat connector 4 then a second white wire goes from 4 to the defrost heater.
A third white wire attaches to thermostat connector 3 and also goes to the defrost heater.I need step by step, COLOUR SPECIFIC instructions to attempt this, like I said imagine you are talking to a chimp so assume total ignorance on my part 😳
CheersRe: Fridge on strike
aqualectric wrote:Err – Yes – but providing the heater is disconnected completely – ie:- both wires – and the wiring insulated carefully. It must be stressed that this is not recommended and is, at best, a “sticking plaster” type repair and must be corrected at the earliest opportunity. Get your local spares dealer to source you one of the stats mentioned without delay. (the Whirlpool W4 should be readily available in AU / NZ).
Power off before any work starts. :plug:
HTH,
Steve.
Cool Steve 😉
Before I attempt this please clarify my wiring.
Using the Danfoss thermostat-
brown wire should connect to position 3 ❓
White wire should connect to position 4 ❓
Earth to casing.
No white wires should connect from heater to thermostat ❓
CheersRe: Fridge on strike
aqualectric wrote:The 2 tag Danfoss unit is for a fridge with an icebox. Your fridge doesn’t have an icebox in the same cavity so it is referred to as a larder fridge in the UK; where before fridges we had cold cupboards (usually under the stairs) where food could be kept cooler than the surrounding house. This cupboard was called a larder – hence the reference. End of History lesson. 😉
You need to obtain the correct stat with the number 3,4 and 6 tags. Ranco K59, a VT9, Danfoss No. 3, or Whirlpool W4 will suffice.
To leave the defrost heater disconnected is not really the answer: although the fridge will actually function. It is far better to obtain the correct part and do it right.Power off before any inspection! :plug:
HTH,
Steve.
Hi Steve and bless you for this info (including the history lesson 😆 )
I’m handy with fixit stuff in general but electronics I struggle with so please imagine you are telling a chimp what to do 😳
I can’t return the 2 tag Danfoss I have now and it wasn’t free so if you were stranded on a dessert island (a very HOT dessert island 😥 ) and couldn’t buy the proper thermostat you want for a professional repair you could be proud of would you be able to hook up the 2 tag Danfoss thermostat you have now ❓ (without defrost heater if need be) if it means you can have cold beer and a happy girlfriend again 😀 )
CheersRe: Fridge on strike
I had a thought 💡
Seeing how the new Danfoss thermostat I bought has one less spade connnector on it (connector position 6 which according to member “dales-electronic” is defrost/lamp) than the Ranco brand thermostat what is gonna happen if I simply don’t plug in one of the white wires (need to know which one) that leads to/from the defrost heater?
I don’t need a defrost heater at all, the fridge still requires periodic manual defrosting anyhow.
Is it gonna do any harm to leave one or the other of the white wires disconnected? ❓
CheersRe: Fridge on strike
Please read through my original post, that explains the problem in full as best I can.
Thanks for the wiring info but I was going purely by colour coding. The model Danfoss Thermostat I was sold does not have a spade connector fitted into position 6, that was part of my dilemma, compared to the Ranco I am missing a connector ❓
I can do a drawing and photograph it to show how they had the Ranco wired up if that makes things clearer but I’ll try to explain first.
I am not familiar with the term “larder fridge” but my fridge is what we called a fridge without a freezer, its only intended to be used for milk, drinks, vegies etc. It does not have a freezer compartment.
A four core cord with brown, blue, white and earth wires services the components in the fridge compartment. On the Ranco, Blue wire is connected to the door switch and then direct to the lamp. Brown wire connects firstly to thermostat connector 6 then a second brown wire continues on from 6 to the lamp. White connects to thermostat connector 4 and from there a second white wire connects on from 4 to the defrost heater. A third white wire connects thermostat connector 3 direct to the defrost heater. The green/yellow earth lead connects to the thermostat case.Re: Fridge on strike
Thanks penguin,
I put pics of both thermostats on photobucket, see if I can send the link………fingers and toes crossed 😯Old stat
New stat.
Re: Fridge on strike
Thanks Penguin,
if all else fails I guess I could go hunting for a Ranco thermostat that is the same as the one in it now, at least I could hook that up.
Can anybody give me a simple explanation of how to post pics here?
Hitting the “Img” button (which I assume is for pics???) only reminds me that I am rubbish at computers (as well as fridges) 🙁Re: Fridge on strike
Hi,
The existing thermostat is unbranded but carries the number K59 R1102 on the case.
The brand of the new thermostat is Danfoss and there are numbers on the case 1416543 and below that BR077B6073 2231.
CheersRe: Fridge on strike
I took pics of the two different thermostats but I can’t figure out how to post them on the forum, sigh 🙁
Re: Fridge on strike
Hi and thanks for your reply 🙂
Yes that part number is the same as the one on the part wrapper.
Do you think my existing thermostat is the cause of the heater staying on?
I guess its possible the serviceman who replaced the thermostat 6 years ago used a non genuine part.
Do you have any idea how I’m supposed to connect the new one up?
I was thinking if I was able to photograph the two thermostats to show the differences in the spade connectors?, a picture will tell the story better.
CheersRe: Hoover washer agitator action
Hi Steve,
the missus made an executive decision the other day and we now have a shiny new washer, thanks for all your advice mate 😉Re: Hoover washer agitator action
I tested the Hoover 650L I scrounged and you won’t believe this but its got the SAME fault as my 500M 😯
During wash mode the agitator rotates normally anticlockwise but can’t rotate clockwise, it just hums.
By hand the agitator can be turned anticlockwise with moderate effort but if I try to turn it clockwise I have to use so much force the whole bowl and agitator move as one.
The gearbox in the 650L is fine as well.
I can’t think of anything else to check and I tried to get a look inside the brake mechanism but its a mongrel to get access to, my gut tells me thats where the problem is…………..
This must be a common fault surely?
I hate to but I’m close to throwing in the towel 🙁
Any thoughts ❓
