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Yes it does alter the speed, but I can’t get it to start at all at lower then 5.4Hz. At 7.4 Hz the pressure is enough to send a plume that reaches almost to the top of the machine with the bottom blade removed.
Since I last posted I was interested to know what voltage the wash pump actually needs to run, which is good to know when trying to work out if the pump is defective or if it isn’t receiving a signal from the PCB. I wrote above that I measured 230V AC on the black wire, but that can’t be correct. This wire is the negative connection going to the pump, which is connected to an 816C opto coupler. This runs from 5V DC. I tried testing this and when you put 5V DC on the input the pump doesn’t run. By the way, when you do this you should put a resistor on the + connection, as the 816C cannot take very high current. I used 1000R. What actually comes out of the Beko PCB is not public information, but I assumed it must be pulsing. I connected up a PWM generator that you can buy for a few quid and 5V at 7.4Hz made the motor run. This 5V measures at about 2.6V on a multimeter because it is pulsing, not constant. I thought the information might be interesting to anyone who wants to know how the pump works because it doesn’t just simply run when you put 230V AC on it as many motors do.
That was it. When I tipped the machine more water came out than usual and the base tray was wet. I had a look at the float switch, it is a microswitch which needs very little pressure, I suppose that is necessary because it is only a piece of polystyrene that pushes it. Where is the leak? I think most likely the output side of the wash pump which has the different clip on it which I imagine is not supposed to be reused.
I found another wire at the bottom of the door, a thin black one, that was completely broken. Guess where that goes? The wash pump. That means the problem was intermittent contact to the pump secondary contacts, then no contact at all. I rejoined the wire and measured 230V AC on it. On a test for about 20 minutes the machine ran normally. The leak must be a slow one, I will have to see in the coming weeks but for now it is repaired.
Thank you for the help, it was certainly good fun. 😀So I managed to make the door switch, the mechanical plastic part, work properly with some oil and moving it backward and forwards. The NO microswitch is fine. When I tried Programme 2,3, and 4 they seemed to work fine and the normal volume of water came out of the washblades. Every time I ended the cycle by holding the P button until it cancelled. I thought I was done.
One thing that was noticeable is when I ran P4 a puddle of white foam was at the bottom of the machine. Never seen that before. Then something strange happened, when i choose any programme other than P1, it switches to P1 when I close the door. It then makes a continuous drain pump noise which never goes away. The P1 switches to the cycle end arrow after a few minutes and beeps three time, as though the cycle has ended but it still runs the drain pump, or at least that is what the constant humming sounds like. It does this every time now. This problem never happened before.
I did wonder if the constant door opening had damaged wires in the door wire bundle. I found two wires with a kink in, i cut then on the kink, stripped them and connected them back together, as there is a chance they were broken inside the insulation, but it had no effect..It is really turning out to be never ending.
Thank you for the replies, Dave.So we are talking about the wash pump. I had the idea to stick a screwdriver in the door lock opening of the door. It suddenly made much more water run from the washblade connections, I had removed them to better see how much water comes out and to have less spray. So if I bridge the door lock, the problem seems to be solved. Strange because otherwise the door lock was functioning when opening and closing the door.
electrofix wrote: jumping the gun a bit by replacing the pump without checking its the fault
was it new or used,
is it getting warm after you run it
trying to work out if the pump is being energised
have you opened it 5 mins in and see if any water going in
Dave
This what I originally posted
My Beko Dishwasher DIN 16310 circulation pump doesn’t run. It is clean inside, receives 230V the whole time and on the other two contacts receives a 5V AC signal constantly rising to 14V AC when water starts filling. The pump is an Acrelik 1783900400. I am wondering if those voltages represent a normal signal to start? If they do the pump is faulty and if not it isn’t. Anybody any idea?
I those are the normal values to make the pump run then it is being energised, but I can only measure at the connectors while disconnected because I cant access under the machine while it is running.Was what new or used?
The machine gets warm enough to generate steam in it.
When I open the machine no water is going in, but before opening it sounds like the pump is running.Hello Dave. I can only read what it says on the label. So I replaced the pump and now instead of being silent you can hear a dum, dum, dum sound, so the pump seems to be running but little to no water is coming out, it doesn’t spray in your face when you open the door and nothing is clean at the end of the cycle. Somehow I am not surprised that it isn’t that easy. :p Do you have any idea what else could be the problem? I am in a hard water area but all plastic parts and pipes are as clean as new.
On the right-hand side of the door rim is a sticker, there are two numbers on it, DIN16310 and 96603.
Thanks for the offer, when I take the pump out again I will see if I can find a label. I have already found a source for a replacement pump. Yes, it the machine was bought in 2018 according to the receipt.
Yes, I did wonder about the number but that is what is written on the original Beko receipt under Model Number. The serial number is 1850004301. Thanks for that information, I did look at the PCB and there is nothing visibly damaged. I would be fine with de-soldering and soldering a new inverter but without a schematic it is difficult. What I really wanted to know is if I would be wasting my time by buying a new motor, which it seems not.
Thank you.
I first had the problem over 6 months ago. The connectors to the pump each had a corroded contact, they are plated, not just copper. I cleaned them up and then it worked again, but occasionally the pump didn’t run. I think that probably was just coincidence and the motor was intermittently not starting because of the electronic problem.
