[sgking]

Hi and thanks very much for your reply. I fitted a new PCB (the smaller of the two) and that fixed it. My reason was a bit amateurish. All I knew was that power was ok, and all components worked ok, so it hopefully pointed to being some sort of computer issue and as the computer for the buttons wasn’t working when I was pressing the buttons s, thought I’d start there. The part was very cheap on ebay but I would have gone further with more parts oif needed. Just got lucky I suppose.

You are very knowledgeable so do you mind if I ask what was the blocked pipes function?its the clear pipe on the right hand side that disappears up into the right hand side of the machine? I’m wondering how the machine was operating whilst it was blocked with sludge!

thanks

[sgking]

christ if only I had joined up on here earlier. I spent £25 on cheapo ones that dont appear to have worked! Doh! If I change the suspension and there is still orbital movement is that a sign the spindle is damaged? I couldnt notice anything wrong with it but even if it was slightly bent I guess it could cause this.

[sgking]

well I worked out that once the connector is split into 2, the pins actually pull out from the front with pliers, then you can knock the broken bit of wire out the connector and feed the new wire in and then press the pin carefully back onto the new wire. What a faff but I did it and all is working. Hooray. I have now done 3 loads and so the whole time imy problem was the bearing play causing the machine to not spin clothes due to some protection mode.

So, all I have left now really is
1.I wouldn’t mind getting a new connector as the current one is a bit battered now.

2.The drum still has some orbital movement causing vibrations, not wondering as such but shaking more than I’d like. The cheap suspension rods I tried at the start – are these known to be crap?https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353048415400

Thanks

[sgking]

Hi DaveThanks for the info I was able to google it and look at some examples – this seems the most exact:https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/446103/what-is-this-wire-to-board-connector-called

I managed to break the two tiny wing clips on each side but as the clips were then off, the block separated into 2 tiny parts but still cant see how to release the broken wire end from the remaining block so that i can try to feed in a new piece – could very well require a new connector which should be 20p but finding one is the problem!

[sgking]

sorry ignore that didnt realise there was a 2nd page and I thought my previous post dissapeared! can these connectors be opened up or is it new loom?

[sgking]

anyone know how to open it up so I can remove a pin so that I can re-insert the snapped wire, save me having to buy a new loom?

[sgking]

ahh and I see that bosch also sell the loom pretty cheap but what a painto have to change it for just one tiny snapped wire…I was hoping I could just release the single pin from the connector and fix it somehow…

[sgking]

apparently the 3 pin connector plugs into this – item 0412 analogue pressure sensor

https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/supportdetail/product/WAS32461GB/07#/Tabs=section-spareparts/Togglebox=tb0412/

[sgking]

Thank you electrofix – all back together with no drama. The big new screws were a pain though but its sealed tight as now – good idea Bosch.No play in the drum now.

However, I have one tiny problem which has scuppered the whole job – a wire broke from the tiny 3 pin connector on the top rear of the machine which goes into a small black plastic thing clipped to top of the machine and has a black rubber tube going down to the rear of machine where it adjoins what I describe as a white plastic dildo shaped item, which in turn is attached to the heater element . Please see pics – any ideas folks?

EDIT I CANT UPLOAD PICS DUE TO FOLLOWING MESSAGE? “Upload failed due to your usergroup’s upload quota. This file will require 418.7 KB but you only have 19.5 KB of 19.5 KB remaining.”

Thanks

[sgking]

OK so machine is in bits, old bearings out. I opened the front door this morning to find the new bearing set (bought from here) had arrived on the doorstep either overnight or very early morning so I will continue today. My questions now are
1. what is the tube of grease or liquid for?
2.The screws provided are longer and a different tapping thread – I’m guessing this is to provide a new ‘grip’ into the plastic when I screw them around the drum? To achieve a tight seal? Or have I simply got the wrong screws?
3.With the long seal – to add silicone or to not add silicone – what do you think?

Thanks

[sgking]

Thanks for your replies both – comparing the diagrams with my machine I think it does split apart well TBH which means I will defo be doing this bearing job, the motor and pcb can come after, depending on my success.

The genuine bearing sets are a bit expensive, so I will try to source some cheaper. I see the expensive sets come with screws which I wont need as i can reuse the old ones but my question now is what are all the o ring seals for – any ideas? It appears that cheaper sets dont have these which could be quite critical really.

Thanks

[sgking]

Thanks for your reply – this must be my first brushless motor!

I’ve done more investigating watching videos and prodding about and I think I have a bearing on the way out. There is no bearing noise to suggest it is bad but there is defo play when i place my hand in the door and lift the drum up – slight knocking. Without clothes it does a spin cycle but the drum does have slight orbital movement and I reckon this is because of the play in the bearing.

I reckon when it has clothes in, the movement is out of telorance due to the weight of the wet clothes so the machine safety does not allow a spin cycle and for some reason flashes the warning light – does this stack up to you guys?

So the main Q now is, does this machine accept new bearings?

Thanks

[sgking]

Was32461gb/07 fd 9107 200235

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