[siddy]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi Everyone, just to let you all know, i have fitted a new rear PCB and all is well, so fingers crossed. as i said before the unit is not hooked up to the water supply yet so im not sure if the ice maker works or not. does anyone know if there is any way i can tell without connecting it to a water supply as it will be some time before i am ready to install it in our new kitchen, what i can say is that the red l.e.d. inside the freezer flashes when i open the door. thanks sid

[siddy]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

pictures didnt upload, could someone tell me how to upload them and i will do it.

[siddy]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi again, thought I would update.
I received rear PCB pack and installed all the caps and now I have C/F flashing all the time, all the fans and compressor work but door open L.E.D., ice crusher and water dispenser don’t and the infra red L.E.D. never did and as it isn’t hooked up to water don’t know if ice maker works. Freezer is keeping things frozen and fridge is keeping things cold but have no idea what the temp is, fans do cut in and out so something is doing something but not really sure what.
I have not replaced anything as yet on the front PCB and wont till I understand more as I don’t want to compound the problems I already have.
I keep reading through this post and it is very helpful in realising what functions the front and rear PCB’s control but don’t know where to go from here, I am tempted to buy a new rear PCB but experience tells me to learn more before I start throwing serious money at it.
I hate that feeling of complete understanding just after an irreversible decision has been made. And when you look back at the problem you wonder how anyone but a complete idiot could have missed it.
Besides that I now know that the rear board was made in 2002 and am worried about firmware compatibility with the front board.
I am now wondering if relays are part of my problem but that would not explain why I now have flashing C/F when before I simply had flashing –every now and again, I fear I may have damaged or accelerated the death of another part of the board.
I tried putting back all the original caps but still the same.
I have included pictures of rear board and as you can see it looks like every man and his dog has had a go at it in the past, and someone has even written in felt tip pen ‘possible C/F fault on it.
I noticed on my front board that I have the same type orange cap as on the rear board so that man or his dog has been sniffing around there too.
On a brighter note my good wife thinks I’m great because she no longer has to get up in the night to turn off the beeping noise because it always displays the flashing C/F and once silenced remains silenced.
Can these boards be easily tested by someone who knows what they are doing or would it have to be done by someone with specialist equipment, as I see there is a socket on the edge of the board which looks fit for this very purpose and can be accessed from the Tupperware container via a flap which I suppose a whirlpool technician would plug his tester into

[siddy]

Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!

Hi everyone new user here, like so many google brought me to this fantastic post, I spent all yesterday afternoon reading it. I have a Whirlpool S20B-RSB21A/G American fridge freezer and every couple of hours I get the ‘- – ‘reading on the freezer temperature display plus the beeping alarm. I have seen the ‘CF’ come up briefly when powering on . I don’t know if the ice maker works or if it will dispense water as we don’t have it connected to the water supply yet, but I can here a noise when pressing the water lever. We have only just purchased the fridge/ freezer on eBay so I’m not even sure how old it is. I don’t hear the beeping too much but my wife does and every night has to go down stairs 2-3 times to silence it. I am not an electrician, I am a joiner, but I can solder but not if my life depended on it. I have ordered the rear board repair kit from this site and ordered and received the caps for the front board from Farnell. I ordered what Broddersbaldrick told Reddog to order
Farnell
Manufacturer: EPCOS
Order Code: 1200836
They are half price at the moment but you have to buy 2.

Just in case your C3 is on the way out, order a
Order Code: 9692738
Manufacturer: PANASONIC
Description CAPACITOR, 1000UF, 6.3V

I ordered the 5.30 yesterday and they arrived 9.30 this morning wow!!! And free delivery too!!
So I am waiting for the kit to arrive to sort out the rear board. Meanwhile
I have the front board in front of me and can see C1,C2,C14,and C15. now I am uncertain what to do . I thought I would just need to replace each Cap for a new one but reading again the thread between Brodders and Reddog it seems I only need to take out C1,2,14,15 and replace with just one of the Caps I ordered from Farnell? (I suppose I’m really directing this to Brodders) I have read the post about keeping the polarity correct with the Panasonic Cap and have indeed seen the positive + on the board and the negative – on the side of the Cap so I wont make that mistake. Could someone put me right as to the other Caps, if I do only replace the 4 caps with the one new one where do I put it ? I would have 4 sets of holes to choose from.
Wishing you all a very happy new year
Regards Siddy

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