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The one on ebay is a 2300255 and lists older/slimline models 300,301,303,3035,308,3085,309,310,600,601,602,6009E,6013. The ebay one has no notch. I saw a picture of someone working on an older metal tub version and the door seal has no notch and looks like the ebay one.
As your one has the notch and looks the same as mine in the picture it may be worth a try.
Would you be kind enough to sell me one please?
I will send a pm.
Unfortunately I missed the bosch Avantix 6 Vario Perfect because gumtree blocked my messages for no reason, but I now see a Bosch WFF2000 within reach. It looks like it has a little rust but parts seem to be available even though it’s about 25 years old.
WFF2000 It looks like a well bult machine with good water levels, hot and cold fill and is repairable.
I think the Avantix would have been ideal as it was not that old but still good quality and repairable. A newer Bosch came up but it has sealed drum so i’m skipping that.
Am I crazy getting this old WFF2000 and will I end up constantly having to fix it? Or maybe it’s a classic?
I read that article. Basically brand new means it will soon go wrong and be unrepairable. The article about 2nd had also warns that many are sold because they are worn out so high risk of problems, so you pays yer money…
At least with older designs though, you just need to buy a decent one and can keep fixing it instead of buying a whole new machine every couple of years.
The following are for sale second hand.
1. Is a Hotpoint WM52 “First Edition” – 1990s and made in Great Britain. £40 There seems to be good availability of parts on parts websites.
2. A Bosch Avantix 6 Vario Perfect. The picture looks like it might be model WAE24366UK or similar £70 . I would guess these models came out about 15 years ago.
Q1. Are Bosch machines from this era easily repairable i.e. can you replace bearings, etc as needed? I am leaning toward the Bosch but the Hotpoint is nearby and I might be able to see it running but I won’t with the Bosch. I think the Bosch might have been taken out of a property that is being renovated so is not connected.
Q2. The Hotpoint is twice as old and very basic. It does not appear to have a 30 degree programme which is essential for me. It does have a quick wash and eco mode that mixes hot and cold fill but does not heat in machine. I have external valves on the hot and cold plumbing so could I adjust the flow to get the mix about 30 degrees? I can check in the drawer with a thermometer. Would that work?
Q3. A review I saw says the machine has a hidden silks program half way between G and H on the dial. This was because there was a more expensive aquarius model sold with more features that had a silk delicate program. The same programmer was fitted to the WM52 but not labelled. Would this silks program heat in the machine to 30 degrees?
So which is better to go for?
Thanks for all that effort searching Andy.
I started the restoration 3 years back but put it on hold due to life getting in the way. In 2021 the seal was availble from several places. There were loads of parts on ebay, PCBs motors, the lot. I should have got everything while I had the chance.
There seem to be no old washing machines listed either. I’m thinking that during the lockdown, lots of folk had a clearout and scrapped all their old junk!
The existing seal has a lot of mould and limescale caked all over it. The outer part that seals against the glass looks a little weathered and that it where the leak is coming from. There is no major damage to the seal so if I can’t find a replacement, it it possible to restore it?
I bought HG applicance descaler and some litmus strips, so I could soak it in a tub with the solution diluted. Could this further damage the rubber?
Acid resitance depends on the type of rubber it is made of. Does anyone know the type of rubber used in door seals?
I found this product called “rubber renue”.
https://mgchemicals.com/products/ele…/rubber-renue/
Has anyone tried this rubber restoration product? Would it do any harm to try? The machine will work if I reassemble it as it is albeit with a tiny leak. It is not enough to form a drip but has caused a little rust to appear but I don’t see it standing the test of time.
Yes the outer tank is plastic and the whole front is plastic circle and fits on with metal clips. The door seal is held on inside the plastic front by a metal band joined by a nut and bolt that tightens onto a ledge inside the hole in the circle. The outside of the seal ring also had a metal band holding against the metal front case panel.
The drum itself is metal with normal perforations (no chevrons). The machine is dated around 1990/91 as the heating element has a 1990 date on the label.
I tried a local old skool domestic parts shop yesterday, the proprietor must be 80 to 90 years old and he had a very old hoover seal but nothing servis unfortunately. He did not have many washer parts, mostly vacuum cleaner bits.
Servis Quartz is a real classic of applicance engineering so I hope I can save it. I have done a lot of work on it and it will go many more years if I can get the door seal.
Thanks for looking. Fingers crossed.
Thanks for your reply and for checking your stock of parts. It would be fantastic if you find one.
There seem to be 2 types of servis quartz, the older slimline series which had a square metal door just bigger than the porthole in the middle and the 603X (e.g. 6035 ,6036) series (with ‘piano key’ controls) which was more modern with a large metal door taking up the whole width of the machine.
As far as I can tell looking at forums and parts photos, all the piano key models had the same seal and the slimline models had a similar seal but without the notch.
I had a look and can see how the notch works now. It makes a bump inside the rubber groove inside the seal. If clothes get stuck in the groove, as they turn, they reach the bump and get pushed back inside the drum.
With the older, non-bump versions, do many clothes get stuck in the groove or damaged?
I will check back here next week. Hopefully something will turn up.
Many thanks
