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Cheers, checked element continuity, seems okay, the machine is pretty clean but there was some fluff in there across the elements, condenser clear, though did stick arm into machine around corner to scrap out also.
Not tried timed run just standard, have just put back together and started a run, its getting hot at the back which is a good sign. Will try timed next if no good.
It’s a white one so likely newer then. though I can’t remember when we bought it. My wife says it is slightly heating but not drying anything just keeps running. Ideal thanks, maybe I’ll replace the heater then have a look at the board if nothing happens. Cheers
yep, you got it. as in there are 2 ntc’s on the back heater 1 has a red reset switch 1 doesn’t. The one with the reset switch I was expecting to also give a reading (disconnected) similar to the other but if you say it will read 0 then that’s right. I just tested the front which reads 13.5 k ohms. so:
Rear NTC 28 k ohms
Rear NTC with red reset switch = 0 k ohms
Front NTC = 13.5 k ohms.If I understand correctly I think this would then suggest these are all working fine and not the problem.
The original problem was condensation when I took the back off, it was fine plugged in but when the on button was pressed it would trip out the house RCD. I dried it out but now have this problem of infinitely running without heating.
Ta
electrofix wrote:Re: Beko DSC85W only gets clothes luke warm
if the ntc at the back is only 500 ohm that’s well out of spec
as above should be
19500 ohms at 25 degrees CDave
Hi all, same dryer similar prob, my ntc with the reset switch is reading 0 like the guy above, but he didn’t replace that one which I would of though would need it, is it normal for this one to read 0? I can’t reset it the red button its permanently down, is that the normal position for the button?The other rear NTC is reading 28 kohms at around 19 oC, which I guess is about right, about to check the front one.
Thanks
