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Re: Beko WME7267W – drum not spinning / turning
It’s worth double checking – dc module about fifteen quid; main pcb nearer a hundred quid – don’t want to get the wrong one or replace main pcb unnecessarily as I have learnt from my own expensive experience!
Good luck with it…Re: Beko WME7267W – drum not spinning / turning
I’ve recently had the same problem with a slightly different beko model, it turned out to be the “dc module” which is the small pcb attached to the side of the machine. On inspection It had carbon deposits all over the back of it and one of the legs from a component was scorched and had broken away from the component.
Failing that, in addition to what you’ve tried already and the tacho in the post above, it could be motor (capacitor or TOC), wiring, or main pcb/timer module.Re: Hotpoint TCD970 Smoking
Why not?
IMHO With some common sense, a bit of a grounding (pardon the pun) in electronics and being mindful of safety precautions, what’s the issue.
I’m a competent DIY’er and have changed many an element, thermostat, circuit board, motor brush etc in appliances without issue, saving myself a bob or two in the process.Re: Beko WM6167 – No drum movement
Last update for anyone interested / finds this while searching for the same problem.
Replaced the “DC module” board this morning and hey presto the washer is back to fully functional life. So the lesson is… On these washers always check the wiring, motor, and dc module before going for main pcb.
Gonna try my luck sticking the spare pcb on ebay unless any takers on here? Or any other ideas what I can do with it!?Re: AEG CompetenceD2100-4-M
It sounds likely to be the element, best off to bite the bullet and invest a little time testing it.
Usually not much dismantling needed to get to an element, just make sure the power is isolated / switched off first!
With power off and the element exposed it should have three terminals, with multimeter take a resistance reading across the outer two terminals, should be around 20 ohms I think if it’s in good order, then also check for continuity between either of the outer terminals and the middle (earth) terminal, if you get continuity here the element is grounded / shorted out and needs replacing.
TBH in my limited experience of a few cooker elements you can often tell just by looking at them, I have found when they blow they can do so fairly violently and are visibly warped out of shape rather than nice and round!Re: Beko WM6167 – No drum movement
Ok an update.
Motor all checks out fine.
While doing the wiring checks yesterday I noticed one of the wires from the motor (grey/white) going off not to the main pcb but to the “dc module”on the side of the machine. On inspection of the motor it would seem this is one terminal of the TOC, so would explain the non running motor if that’s gone open circuit somewhere.
Inspected the dc module and sure enough there were carbon deposits on the tracks possibly causing shorts, and also one of the legs on the large black four legged component was broke away and a bit blackened at the top.
New dc module now on order, fingers crossed and fairly high confidence it should fix it this time.Re: Beko WM6167 – No drum movement
Ok, bit the bullet, it was just awkward more than anything – multimeter probes a bit on the short side and not enough hands, but all the wiring to the motor checks out.
Here’s hoping my brother can spot the issue with the motor when it’s on the bench!
Do they make service manuals / schematics / wiring diags for these?Re: Beko WM6167 – No drum movement
Perhaps a fair comment iadom!
I was initially convinced it was pcb because I didn’t think I could hear the relay actuating to drive the motor, and at first just tried to get replacement relays, but could not get hold of the parts. It’s also in a shared house and in my absence the housemate had it looked at by an appliance engineer (supposedly!) who also diagnosed pcb. Internet research also pretty much consistently throws up either pcb or brushes, and the occasional mention of wiring.
So I went for pcb first, brushes looked fairly ok with the exception of uneven wear.
When the pcb didn’t solve it I thought it couldn’t hurt to do brushes too.
The wiring looks sound, it’s all well wrapped, decent cable and secured out of the way of the moving parts, is it really likely to fail? Seemed like a lot of hassle to undo it all and trace back to get the meter on it for something I would have considered least likely?
I don’t have a megger but am fine with a multimeter – what measurements can I take on the motor and what readings to expect?
ThanksRe: Beko WM6167 – No drum movement
Thanks for the reply.
Hopefully it is motor related – as luck would have it my brother does electric motors for a living and is going to give it the once over when he’s back from his hols next week.
Other than that it’s tear your hair out time, after replacing brushes and pcb if it needs anything significant on the motor it would have been cheaper to buy new
