stepeheno

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)
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  • in reply to: Beko wm6143b stops mid cycle #389409
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Beko wm6143b stops mid cycle

    Thanks for the reply, it’s actually been working fine ever since but if the fault comes back I’ll do what you suggested and post back what the lights are doing!
    Thanks again

    in reply to: Beko wm6143b stops mid cycle #389407
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Beko wm6143b stops mid cycle

    It’s started working again of it’s own accord tonight.. wonder how long for this time!

    in reply to: Beko wm6143b stops mid cycle #389405
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Beko wm6143b stops mid cycle

    Anywhere to get service manuals or schematic to narrow down the testing?

    in reply to: Electrolux EOB944 – oven trips circuit breaker #365940
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Electrolux EOB944 – oven trips circuit breaker

    If you want to be certain before ordering any parts you will need to test the cutout, wiring, elements etc with a megger or multimeter. That’s the only way to be sure.

    in reply to: Brandt fridge freezer – fixed at last! #363626
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Brandt fridge freezer – fixed at last!

    Interesting, thanks for sharing!

    in reply to: AEG Oven trips RCD #363479
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: AEG Oven trips RCD

    Thermostat?

    in reply to: Neff fan oven ‘eating’ elements #362423
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Neff fan oven ‘eating’ elements

    My oven element needed replacing about once every 12 months for a couple of years, always replaced with cheap ones off ebay – no probs. Then suddenly they started blowing every couple of months. Personally lessons learnt were:
    – make sure replacement elements are correct wattage, rating, turns etc for your appliance. I’ve a feeling I got one our two incorrect ones.
    – also check the thermostat, a sus thermostat can blow elements and can usually be replaced with a generic thermostat very inexpensively
    – check wiring / connections. After replacing several elements on this machine I found the spade connectors to be both loose and charred / discoloured. Last time I replaced the element, after it blowing about three in as many months, I went through all the internal wiring in the back of the machine and crimped new spade connectors on any that were loose or discoloured. It hasn’t blown again since and that was getting on for a year ago…

    in reply to: Hotpoint WMA52 problem #362043
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Hotpoint WMA52 problem

    No locking mechanism, but the connections are supposed to be nice and snug. I find needle nosed pliers the best thing to get a grip and waggle them loose.
    That said, the brush in the last picture looks in good nick with lots of life left… Though I suppose for the cost of a set they’re probably worth replacing anyway just in case

    in reply to: Smeg Fan Oven Mystery! #361954
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Smeg Fan Oven Mystery!

    Have you checked the elements to ensure no continuity between live and earth terminals, and live and neutral terminals. (a megger is better than a multi meter for this test) Agreed it sounds unlikely for both to fail at once but from the setup it sounds likely that they are wired in series on the same circuit so if one failed it could knock the circuit off for both?

    in reply to: Bosch WVT1260 Washer Dryer motor check #361935
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Bosch WVT1260 Washer Dryer motor check

    If it was TOC you would get an open circuit whilst testing the relevant terminal pair on the motor socket.
    Could be tacho, wiring between motor and pcb/timer, or the pcb/timer.

    in reply to: AEG element – anything I should know? #361638
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: AEG element – anything I should know?

    Can’t say exactly for your model but generally elements will be screwed in with a screw either side of the terminal block and a further screw at the opposite side of the terminal block.
    With the screws out the element should pull forwards a bit and you generally find they’re wired in with spade connectors to the rear. Should be enough slack in the wires to be able to pull it out a bit, disconnect the spade connectors, remove old element then connect up the new and screw into place.

    in reply to: whirlpool washer #361453
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: whirlpool washer

    Check all the wiring from the motor to the timer / pcb’s for continuity.

    Examine the timer / pcb’s for any obvious damage – blown components, scorching, dry joints, carbon deposits etc.

    When testing the motor did you test the TOC and the tacho?

    in reply to: Whirlpool AWM5145 – not working after brush change #361407
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: Whirlpool AWM5145 – not working after brush change

    Given that you’ve already done the brushes the usual suspects for no drum movement are:
    -Wiring
    -Motor problem, particularly TOC or carbon deposits
    -PCB / timer module

    Time to dig out the multimeter…

    in reply to: SEBO X4 Extra Which? report #360561
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: SEBO X4 Extra Which? report

    Got to remember that which reports are generally still just someone’s opinion at the end of the day…

    in reply to: kickboard #360715
    stepeheno
    Participant

    Re: kickboard

    If there is any kind of lip on the cabinets or floor you might have to angle it in at the top first then tap it in at the bottom or vice versa.
    Also make sure the clips are lined up with the legs, if these are off centre you could have problems

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)