[SteveLondonUk]

electrofix wrote:could easily be that switch, and they are not that expensive so worth a try

Dave

Typical, I ordered a pack of 10 for £5, then realised that whilst cutting the old one out (they’d obviously fitted it so it didn’t easily come out) I pierced the main channel for the water so ordered a whole new unit for £26. Hopefully job done.

will let you know.

thanks for your help.

[SteveLondonUk]

OK. So I removed the whole unit and run some tests. For some reason I could then hear the reed switch clicking as the wheel went round. This reflected on the multimeter with drops and spikes. I thought maybe it had just got stuck and so I refitted and tested again to find the problem still there. I have removed again and it has gone back to not clicking. I’m assuming this is where the problem lies.

However, I don’t know if its a NO Reed SW that is stuck closed, or a NC Reed SW that is also stuck closed. 😐

Any ideas?

I have now gone further and removed the PCB with the reed switch on. Out of the unit and away from the magnet on the wheel there is no conductivity across the sw. When I put it back to the magnet wheel it closes but then does not re-open as the wheel is spun. Could it be that the SW has lost its ability to flutter quickly between the two states from age/use?

[SteveLondonUk]

electrofix wrote:normally they are a glass reed sw and a revolving magnet

if it is you can connect your meter up to it ( on buzz) with the wires disconnected and turn on. the meter will bleep as it goes round
its not a 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} test but you could also buy a reed switch and solder it in ( do that a lot )

also check wiring, could be a dodgy joint

dave

I’ve just run a check (albeit my meter doesn’t have buzz but has normal continuity) and there is continuity across the pins. Both when the appliance is off AND when the water is going in and spinning the fan. I would have thought there would only be continuity as the magnet passes the reed switch no? I have tried this with both the connector on and off.

Does this confirm that the reed switch is faulty to you?

Just done a bit more reading and it could be that its a normally closed reed switch, but either way I am assuming there should be a flutter either on or off when the magnet passes right?

[SteveLondonUk]

electrofix wrote:normally they are a glass reed sw and a revolving magnet

if it is you can connect your meter up to it ( on buzz) with the wires disconnected and turn on. the meter will bleep as it goes round
its not a 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} test but you could also buy a reed switch and solder it in ( do that a lot )

also check wiring, could be a dodgy joint

dave

Thats great Dave thank you. I do dabble a lot in DIY and electronics so could probably easily solder a new one in if its accessible. I’ll rip it apart tomorrow and take a look.

Do you think that error could also point to anything else? Just so I can check it whilst its out and open. I read on another thread with a similar problem and someone suggested the heating element? But what you say makes more sense as its one of the first processes thats flagged up the error.

[SteveLondonUk]

electrofix wrote:at the side of the unit is a small turbine. this turbine operates a switch which counts the water in. if it goes faulty, has bad connections or mice eaten cables ( had that ) then it will fill, but wont know, so it will stop thinking its not

Dave

very likley this one but you need to check as they would need the rest of the numbers off the machine

https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/dwp1…-break-turbine

Thanks Dave. I was a thinking it might be the circulation pump as its filling but not starting (me just sitting here trying to work it out on my own lol) but what you said makes more sense as the error code suggests the issue is before the pumps would even start.

Would it throw up a different error if it was a later stage of the process?

Is there a way of testing these turbine units before ordering? Just trying to work out the risk vs reward agains fixing or buying a new one (Which I don’t really want to if I can fix it cheap enough.)

Thanks again Dave. 🙂

EDIT: If it makes any difference, it just sits there draining for ages, even after the water has drained out and does so until I switch it off.

[SteveLondonUk]

electrofix wrote:from owners manual

Dave

Hi Dave. Thanks for your reply. I found that and tested already. Water IS flowing into the appliance. I can hear and feel it plus the bottom of the dishwasher does fill a couple of inches with cold water after turning on and just before the beeping starts.

Do you know what else can cause it not to ‘take water in’ other than the inlet hose? I did read somewhere that a broken heater element can cause this error?

[SteveLondonUk]

don wrote:Model number will help the guys 😉

Have moved this post to Washing machine forum 🙂

Don

It’s a dishwasher though not a washing machine.

The model is LTF11M121C

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