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Pump will turn by hand from the rear. I have blocked the impellor and confirmed that it also blocks the pump so I guess that the pump itself is u/s. Checked the pump wiring and all three wires to the pump have continuity which seems odd, although it might explain why the pump body got so hot! Given the cost of a replacement pump I don’t think that the tub-off option is worth the effort and my arthritic hands preclude trying to remove the pump without removing the tub. Looks like washing up by hand until the end of the lockdown and then buying a new dishwasher (which is not much more expensive than replacing the pump). Many thanks for your helpful responses. stay safe.
John
Have attached picture of pump (next to heater element). Having looked at it, it would appear that in order to change it I would need to strip the machine right down, and even then I could not be sure that there wasn’t another problem. Replacement pump is £231 on eSpares so obviously not worth replacing so I think that I will have to admit defeat. Many thanks for all the help and advice – pity that we couldn’t achieve a better result. At least it gave me something to do during lockdown. Stay safe.
John
Reassembly and trial run completed with the same result – no water heating. I left the sides off so that I could see what was going on. Filling appeared to be ok and the level was such that it just covered the inner floor. No sign of any heating after 20 mins! Overriding the program to empty also worked fine. I was puzzled to find that what appears to be a pump on RHS (viewed from front) next to the heater element did not appear to run and also got very hot! If it is a pump, itis not the one that empties the machine as that works! The thermal cutout would seem to be inaccessible. Any suggestions?
Thanks for that. I will check it out. Just in the process of rebuilding machine. Will keep you posted on progress.
John
We seem to have got out of synch with the messages. I will rebuild without trying to cook the PCB and check the other issues you raise. It certainly takes in water at the outset of the cycle, but I’m not sure how much. The wiring harness looks to be fine. How do I check the thermal cutout/ntc?
I did remove the PCB and checked the back of both boards. No sign of burning on either. Will advise how it turns out. thanks again.
e spares are quoting £258 !!! Really not worth it. I am just going to rebuild the dishwasher and cross my fingers (or perhaps try a dry joint remedy by oven baking the boards to try and restore any dry joints). Many thanks for your help
Removed PCB. Nothing obvious re dry joints and those connections that I can check for continuity seem ok. Looks like I might need a new PCB!
You are right – but the label is extremely faded. Managed to get the door back on – I see what you mean by a complete dismantling is a nightmare! So I am now able to look at the PCB. It appears that it has a hinged cover which is very hard to release, also I am not sure which solder joints I am looking for. Any suggestions. The last white goods I stripped was a Hoover Keymatic in the 70’s so you will appreciate that I am a bit rusty at doing this kind of thing.
Thanks for the info. My machine has no serial numbers (I’ve checked all the locations) and as I was given it I have no evidence of sale so I doubt that Bosch would be interested!
Have still to check the PCB – went a bit too far with dismantling and now have the door off its hinges rather than the PCB off the door! Will need to fix that before checking PCB. I presume that the resistance is ok as, from other threads i was expecting a slightly higher reading.Thanks for the advice. Looks as though you were right as heater unit has continuity with a resistance of 23.4 ohms (with all the connections still in place). I’m about to check the PCB.
Thanks for your prompt and helpful response and explanation regarding the base. I haven’t tested the element as I don’t think that it is possible to reach the heater element terminals from the side but will check. Presume you are referring to the PCB in the door re solder joints. I must admit that, having found that everything appeared to work with no fault codes but the wash was awful as the water hadn’t heated, I presumed that it was an issue with the heater element. I will post again once I have made further checks.
