Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Having finally got around to ordering and fitting 2 new suspension legs (original Samsung parts) thought I would add an update.
Comparing the suspension legs, old with new, was initially sceptical as the new units exibited more or less the same “in out” piston resistance as the old units.
However, as already purchased, fitted anyway, working from the bottom with the machine tilted approx 45 deg’s against a wall provided best access and replacement was not too difficult or time consuming once the machine was removed and isolated.On re-instatement, first thing noticed before re-plumbing was the drum “front to back” damping as accessed from the door was now much greater, much less “front to back” drum movement now apparent.
As the new suspension legs “in out” piston resistance was more or less the same as the old units, can only attribute the now greater drum damping action to worn mounting bushes on the old suspension legs.On full re-instatement and testing found a vast improvement on pre-spin load balancing and general spin performance with much reduced drum movement and noise during spinning.
So, overall very happy with the result, the machine is 8 years old, well worth the effort to repair, performing like new again and will hopefully give quite a few more years of service.All sorted, very much by reference to the now available schematic/wiring diagram.
Issue was a combination of oven door micro switch wiring and remembering to reset the clock/timer after power on!
The large (lower) oven heating elements are interlocked by the door switch (on neutral side) and obviously by the clock/timer (on live side).All door switch wiring now as per schematic/wiring diagram.
While accepting the the large oven heating elements have worked from new (until present issue) can only state that the large oven internal lamp has never worked in it’s current (correct) mode from new, ie., illuminates when door opened (with oven controls off) or illuminates with door closed when any heating mode is selected, this being as per schematic expectation.
Can only surmise that there has been a mis-wiring issue from new!To be honest, we only ever used the large oven once a year, christmas time!
Again, many thanks to “electrofix” and “tubafan” for the support and assistance offered, much appreciated.
Pleasantly surprised that smeg-service.co.uk (who I believe are Servevast Limited) responded to my e-mail request within the hour yesterday and provided the wiring diagrams as requested, 2 pdf files of 2 A4 pages each, quite comprehensive.
An initial quick look at the diagrams confirmed that the “second” micro switch on the large oven door should indeed be wired Com/NO and appears to be associated with heating elements interlocking, however, as this connection permutation has already been tried without success and accepting that the large oven heating did work previously even with the original micro switch NO/NC connections believe that there is a later fault which is still active.
The plan now is much more detailed examination of the wiring schematics associated with the large oven heating element control, enlarging, printing & highlight tracing before once again removing the oven for further dynamic checks.
Many thanks “tubafan” for the response, much appreciated.
Q: Does the bottom oven now work with the door open, as I’m wondering if it was wired wrongly all along?
No, elements won’t power up at all on any function switch setting with the stat in demand.
With oven door open or closed still no power to heating elements even with the 2 wire door micro re-wired NO or NC.
Yes, the large (bottom) oven illumination lamp does now work from door (open) switch or from any heat selection on the function switch.
Small (upper) oven illumination lamp operates on oven function switch (any selection) only.
However, I’am fairly convinced that the large oven door switch has been non-functional for some time certainly prior to my door removal/cleaning operations.Dave, thanks for your further support.
Q: You did not remove the wires at all from the switches i assume?
No, I did remove the switch wiring in order to split the pair and reinstate the operating paddle, however, I did photograph and methodically draw a diagram of the connections before removing and I’am 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} positive the connections were re-instated as found.Q: There is no wire going to the common at all ? was wondering if the commons are linked?
No, second micro switch common terminal has no connection!
As stated earlier, did experiment by re-wiring NO & NC (WRT common) but this did nothing in either permutation so returned to as found.From a Google search, Servevast Ltd state they can supply wiring diagrams for Smeg appliances on application, they did supply an exploded parts diagram a few years ago but refused to supply the associated parts listing so somewhat sceptical, have submitted a request today.
On reflection, the only thing I didn’t think to check yesterday was the oven timer contacts?
I’am assuming the timer/programmer works on the large oven only, the manual is not very clear on that?Spent most of yesterday working on the oven ref. issues as described.
Not an easy job to gain access under the side panels as the panels form part of the oven support frame.As “electrofix” had warned earlier the large (bottom) oven door micro switch assembly was actually located on the LH side of the oven not the RH side as displayed on the exploded diagram.
The door switches operating “paddle” was found to be completely detached as such could not operate, managed to re-assemble and verify operation from door hinge.
There is no door switch associated with the small (upper) oven so still can’t explain how originally the small oven door controlled the internal illumination lamp in the large oven, beginning to think I imagined this but know that’s not the case!One of the micro’s (3 connections) was verified to operate the large oven internal lamp.
The other micro (2 connections) wired to NO & NC contacts, ie. no connection to the switch common!
Obviously this can never perform any switch function (open or closed) with this wiring permutation?
The large oven internal lamp now operated to expectation from the door open/closed action.However, the issue now is, large (lower) oven won’t switch on any of the heating elements or panel neon indicator lamp.
Have verified operation/checked continuity of the oven function switch, thermostat and the rear mounted over temperature protection stat.
There are 2 other (3 wire connection) stats which are believed to control respective ovens fan operation, have previously successfully replaced on of these to restore normal fan operation on the small oven, don’t believe they are associated with oven element protection/control.Have also tried different wiring permutations of the 2 wire door micro switch, common to NO or NC but no effect on large oven heating elements.
Anyone have access to a wiring diagram or advise where one could be sourced?
I was a maintenance technician in the petro/chemical industry all my working life and feel safe & reasonably competent working on electrical/electronic equipment.Hi Dave, many thanks for your response.
Yes, can see the switch now on my exploded diagram, same as your snapshot, definately seems to be associated with the large (lower) oven even though strange as it may seem the upper (small) oven door has always controlled the large oven internal lamp!
As soon as I can get a bit of assistance with the oven removal will have a look inside and hopefully work out what’s going on.
At least I now have the general area (lower RH side) to investigate and know that spares are available should they be required.
In the mean time and to keep the oven operational have applied the easy solution of large oven lamp removal as I prefer to keep the unit powered up for the clock display.Will keep the forum posted on the outcome.
Many thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
That confirms there is a door switch, the operating arm may have become dislodged/misaligned during the oven doors removal/replacement operations.
The dual micro switch (2 pole) in the illustration would suggest that it performs two functions.
Have always found it strange that the small oven door controls the large oven internal lamp, however, can live with that.Obviously the oven now needs to be removed for further investigation under the outer covers.
I do have an “exploded” parts diagram but can’t locate the oven door switch on that as yet.In lieu of any response I can now answer my own question.
Two suspension legs are fitted, situated near the back of the drum.
Can be seen from the rear after removing the access panel, could be removed/replaced from here but found that it was much easier to access the mountings from underneath after tilting the machine to 45 deg’s and removing the small bottom panel.
The drum bolts are 10mm head (damper body) and the chassis bolts are 13mm head (damper piston).The dampers still exibit some resistance in both directions but can’t really tell if enough as don’t have the replacement units for comparison.
From the dimensions supplied for the suggested replacements would say that the spec. is correct.
SKU#: DC6600531C, original part @ £17.99 ea.
SKU#: D007032, alternative part @ £7.96 ea.Had to reinstate the machine for service but will very likely fit the “original part” replacements in the longer term.
