[Trence]

Tried again to source the thermal switch and couldn’t. I tried another controller board I found in an abandoned washer that’s at least one version up from wm63n, had speed and temperature controls, board look identical besides 2 resistors plugged onto the pcb were missing. Think I read has a limiting effect on the spin cycle? Fired the washer up and same as before.
Thought I would test everything again and found a break in the wiring at the 7 pin motor plug, connection 5. The thermal switch still seemed dead so I tested a different part of the wiring that wasn’t as sooted up and it tested ok.

I’ve shortened the wiring a bit and connected pin 5 and the washer is working again.

[Trence]

To wrap this up: I have no idea of the stall current for the Sensata Klixon thermal switch, this was brought to my attention after contacting a supplier but they only sell in bulk. Can only find a supplier of the exact part in the US so far. A new motor would be the FHP plus a kit for it to be compatible, not a sensible solution in financial terms £160 approx. Ebay or similar one may pop up, there’s loads of motors on there but I no not of their compatibility.

Thank you to all who’ve contributed.

[Trence]

electrofix wrote: not back in till friday.
did junk a lot of these motors but may have one around i can take the fuse out of

Dave

That’d be great. I’m still browsing different sites for a suitable replacement, although from above reading it may not fix the problem, still worth a try.

[Trence]

Been in touch with a couple of companies already. One gave me the data sheet of the series but didn’t know the temp and doesn’t supply them. I also contacted the manufacturer of the series and had no reply. I’m lookin..

[Trence]

The spider has lasted around 7yrs a piece in this washer and usually change the bearings at the same time. Cost overall hasn’t been too bad at less than £28yr overall, including purchase from new and parts.
Still that’s nearly £784. Not sure how many we’d have been through and at what cost otherwise??

I’m unsure of what fuse to buy and where from?
The ones I linked to are they appropriate?
Yes there is a fuse holder it slides into and is held in by the wiring pushing down on it.

Found this one on same site: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/product…2B09C/14123785

[Trence]

Thank you for the info. The machine is indeed WM63 with the white plastic brush housing. 130°c has been popping up as a possible rating for a replacement fuse, it’s good to read this from you also. Will this be it’s rating for use or cut off point of failure? I read Class B(?) insulated motor 130°c with a cut off at 145°c but was only guidance, not necessarily the correct option for me. Can I test the armature with a meter to determine if it’s still OK?
A search later.. It would seem so ☺️

Armature:
Commutator bars to ground no reading
Adjacent bars similar reading
180°/opposite bars similar reading
Commutator bars to armature stack no reading

[Trence]

Blue>fuse>blue>brush
Scorched plastic tab cover historical from years ago.

One term I’ve found: 3MP Motor Protector
3MP21301 17X8T

These look simlar: https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/product…7005A/13577712
Motor label: 2 or 8A, 220-240v.
10A 250v fuse be OK then
I guess now it’s a case of which temperature rating to go for.. Also what kind of tape to put round it that will not melt, and insulate it properly?

What temp rating for fuse?

When replaced the reason for it to blow and other issues:
1. Pcb
2. Capacitor?
3. Worn brushes?
4. Pc component (board look OK)
5. Timing board fuse / wiring loom fuse
6. Pressure switch
7. Tabs and wiring in motor
8. Relays (maybe stuck)
9. Armature (maybe faulty)

[Trence]

0 empty
1 black centre
2 blue (-)
3 white (+)
4 red R
5 Yellow L
6 tacho
7 tacho

2 & 3 no reading to any other pins

Readings brush (colour white) to tags only 1 reading

Pcb looks ok:
​​​​Conponents look ok

Thermal fuse: replace or test conponents on pcb?
Thermal fuse on blue wire, tucked into plastic housing tightly underneath winding?

[Trence]

Thank you for replies.
Brushes worn to the point they usually wear to, with a little left over about 1cm. Both shiny with curve matching the comutator. Also tab bent to allow contact. I can hear the brushes rubbing over the commutator when I turn it.
Commutator grey like it is usually, cleaned it to see if it would help.
All the wires to the block from the board are white.
Washer goes through all the motions of filling and draining.
I have a cheap multimeter I can use.
At one point the motor moved a little, just a quick short motion while the washer going through a program.

Possibilities:
1. Break in the loom supplying the motor?
2. Thermal load damaged
3. Fuse on the board

There does seem to be power to the motor live wire.
I have made the spade connections grip the brush tabs more securely. They were a bit on the loose side.

[Author]

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