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Re: Baffled by Hotpoint WMA10
iadom wrote:
A new doorlock is quite cheap and might be worth investing in. 😉
Indeed it is, I took the pcb repair and blown tracks as an opportunity to correct some of my perceived flaws lol. particularly the no fuse on the door interlock, it is well know that PTC do get buildups than can cause momentary shorts usually knocks a piece off the PTC itself. i used a fibre pencil to clean it and its contacting area’s. if it fails again i will replace the interlock, but in all honesty it does not appear to be at the end of its life by any means lol.Re: Baffled by Hotpoint WMA10
I have a wma33 it appears to have the same pcb panel that looks like it was designed by a mountain goat so as to blow up at the slightest excuse.
went to visit my newborn at the hospital and left machine on, came home and the mains fuse has tripped. reset and the washer door interlock light is flashing and inoperative. Had to get it running or the missus would have killed me lol.
no diagrams, nothing online worth a look except this thread. had to reverse the whole pcb panel and door interlock circuit ffs.Door interlock wires 2 white 1 red. power is applied by a triac from the front pcb which had a nice hole in top of it 😕
1 white is neutral and 1 is the feedback to pcb, red is live switched by the triac, dissasembly of door interlock shows PTC required cleaning ect. did that reassembled and tested function.
test pads on main pcb to jump out triac for a test mode presumably, operated as such anyway, removed triac prior to test as it was obviously dead short.
Replaced all tracks on pcb that were total blown away (who came up this pile of poo ffs).
interlock operated when program selected, downside while doing this one must switch of from socket to release the door
started machine on a test cycle and trips fuse hmm further checks revealed carbon deposits on terminals to motor, removal solved tripping.
Cycles completed after this fine.fitted replacement triac, driver transistor and a resistor and the machine is working again without issue.
Normally i work on more complex devices, but my only coment further is that i am staggered at the cost of these panels and the quite deliberately poor design.
The best they could come up with was a bimetal reaction using a PTC to permit movement of a little piece of plastic to inhibit the door release, hotpoint/creda area bunch of cowboys. 10quids worth of parts, an eeprom to load any program they want so the board design is compatible with almost all models by adding leds and changing programs. for that they want £100 +.last hotpoint/creda type machine i ever purchase. hmm
Re: Hotpoint WMA34 spin problem
I know this is an old thread, to be honest i just had this problem with my wma33.
i stripped out the control pcb, and did a piece by piece test, i normally work on laptop motherboards so it was not very difficult. Ennoyingly i could find no fault save a suspect thyristor BTA16 800W which i changed.
It didn’t help at all, i proceeded to disasemble the motor and quiet by accident i noticed a daft rataining clip securing the magnet that feeds the tacho coil was not secure. allowing the motor shaft to spin while the magnet was slipping. (what a ridiculous mechanism for goodness sake)
Anyway a dap of silicon on the shaft prior to refitting the magnet and presto no slipping even if the clip comes loose again.Under normal circumstances i wouldn’t even bother but i fitted new outer and inner drums bearings ect 8 months ago and wasn’t about to waste al that effort lol.
hope this helps others, oh i measured the tacho coil at about 200ohms which can of course be measured from the control pcb. terminal with all white and 1 red wire. count red as 1, terminal to test are 4-5 if this is open it would mean a wiring fault as mentioned in this thread if not check the magnet retaining clip and then the thyristors on the main pcb they can be replaced without much problem with BTA16 600B which are 600v but stil 16amp and plenty upto the job.
regards tbc
